Problem with the ECU/ECM at 90k

The G-Series Tuning Forum is the place to discuss G35/G37 performance modifications and mechanical repair.
User avatar
1NF1N1T
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2012 3:39 pm
Car: 2009 Infiniti G37x Coupe

Post

At 90,000 miles my 2009 G37x Coupe began experiencing a very strange intermittent problem. The car would buck and jerk as if it were slamming into gear a bunch of times as I was cruising down the freeway at ~45 MPH with the RPM's shakily climbing up and down the gauge. I say it's intermittent because it only happens approx. once every 2 weeks. When the bucking/jerking/slamming into gear/feel like i'm going to go fly through the window superman-style any second/ feeling happens I usually put the hazard/caution lights on and pull off to the side of the road otherwise it is NOT drive-able AT ALL and i'm pretty sure something more expensive could break if I don't (i.e. the transmission). So after pulling over the RPM's will always go up and down erratically on their own between 900-1200 RPM's (Car Normally IDLEs at warm-up at 600 RPM's) shut the car off and wait for the computer to power down (count to 10) then I start it up and the RPM's are normal back to 600 RPM's again like nothing ever happened?! This has happened to me over 40 times this past year no joke and I just had the wiring harness to the ecm replaced (500$ part) but it didn't fix it.

Also, when this happens it usually doesn't give me a CEL or any lights or codes or anything, however, sometimes it has and when it has it was the CEL, VDC, and SLIP lights all at once. That's when I would not only shut it off but before turning it back on I would reset the ecu by:

1. Ignition On count to 3
2. depress/release pedal 5 times
3. count to 10 and full depress pedal
4. count to 12 (ses blinks)
5. count to 10 depress pedal
6. count to 10 elease pedal
7. turn off ignition and restart the car

Video of the problem will be uploaded soon.

Any ideas/suggestions/anyone heard of this sort of problem?


User avatar
1NF1N1T
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2012 3:39 pm
Car: 2009 Infiniti G37x Coupe

Post


Gilley
Posts: 87
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2014 11:59 am

Post

When you reset the ECU you also clear the trouble codes. You could keep a code reader in the car to read the codes before you reset the ECU and then you'll have an indication of the problem.

There are many potential causes. One that comes to mind is a dirty or bad MAF sensor.

User avatar
1NF1N1T
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2012 3:39 pm
Car: 2009 Infiniti G37x Coupe

Post

Gilley wrote:When you reset the ECU you also clear the trouble codes. You could keep a code reader in the car to read the codes before you reset the ECU and then you'll have an indication of the problem.

There are many potential causes. One that comes to mind is a dirty or bad MAF sensor.
It was P0174 (Bank 2 MAF) - Bank 2 = the driver's side MAF. I have already tried cleaning the MAF sensor, swapping the passenger's side MAF with the driver's side MAF and it still wasn't fixed. Next I purchased a new MAF for the driver's side and that still didn't fix it.

Also, can a moderator please edit the first post on this thread with this at the top "CEL Code: P0174 (Bank 2 MAF) - Bank 2 = the driver's side MAF. I have already tried cleaning the MAF sensor, swapping the passenger's side MAF with the driver's side MAF and it still wasn't fixed. Next I purchased a new MAF for the driver's side and that still didn't fix it."

User avatar
telcoman
Posts: 5762
Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2006 11:30 am
Car: Tesla 2022 Model Y, 2016 Q70 Bye 2012 G37S 6 MT w Nav 94444 mi bye 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6 MT @171796 mi.
Location: Central NJ

Post

1NF1N1T wrote:
Any ideas/suggestions/anyone heard of this sort of problem?
yes!
1NF1N1T wrote: happened to me over 40 times this past year no joke and I just had the wiring harness to the ecm replaced (500$ part) but it didn't fix it.
Why?
Who made that determination?
1NF1N1T wrote:[

It was P0174 (Bank 2 MAF) - Bank 2 = the driver's side MAF. I have already tried cleaning the MAF sensor, swapping the passenger's side MAF with the driver's side MAF and it still wasn't fixed. Next I purchased a new MAF for the driver's side and that still didn't fix it.

Also, can a moderator please edit the first post on this thread with this at the top "CEL Code: P0174 (Bank 2 MAF) - Bank 2 = the driver's side MAF. I have already tried cleaning the MAF sensor, swapping the passenger's side MAF with the driver's side MAF and it still wasn't fixed. Next I purchased a new MAF for the driver's side and that still didn't fix it."
So far you spent $500.00 for a wiring harness plus the cost of a new MAF.

Are you following the troubleshooting steps in the FSM?

Just my $.02 but it sounds to me that you are in over your head and it may have been cheaper and quicker to have a dealer diagnose and repair your vehicle.

Good luck

Telcoman


Return to “G35 and G37 Engine, Drivetrain & Tuning”