problem with the custom short air intake in the INSTALL section

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popogto
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i read on 240sx.org about the custom short ram intake setup.(http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/sho ... ndex.htm)i followed each step correctly except that my pipe is hard rubber instead of PVC.everything looked good untill i turned on the engine. it idles very very roughly and then it dies out.then i turned up my idle a few but it does the same.as i was back tracking my steps, i tried it with the MAS unpluged and it worked fine. when i took it for a spin around the block, i noticed my engine wont go pass 2500 rpm. it shakes a lot but wont go any further. i have no idea what the hell is going on here.sorry for the loooong post. anyhelp is appreicated


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1991S13
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Car: '91 240sx Coupe, '00 QX4 4x4, '02 Sentra Spec V
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Where did it normally idle, and what does it stumble around now? Turn the AC on with the fan on full blast and see if that helps keep the idle up enough that it doesn't stall.

Are you sure the tube is completely sealed where the filter, MAF, and throttle body meet? It sounds like you are leaking air somewhere. Test your MAF out, just to make sure that isn't the culprit.

I've heard that moving the MAF closer to the throttle body causes a jumpy idle, but nothing that extreme.

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ricebike
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Car: 1989 240sx se 5spd (donated to my brother in law)
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your car is in "failsafe mode" d/t unplugging the MAFS or the wittle wire in the MAF is corroded w/ stuff or is broken...

check the maf wire & clean w/ brake cleaner/ electric cleaner, check the plug for corrosion & make sure it's secure....

maybe disconnect the battery while u do this to maybe reset the ecu...

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popogto
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thanks guys, i've narrowed down the MAS wires to the black/white one as the culprit. the connection to the maf is fine. i dunno where it leads to, but i think it ultimately ends up in the ECU. BTW. how come there are 4 pins on the MAF side of the sensor and just 3 on the plug?

thanks again!

nismojunkie
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i did this today and mine is doing the same thing. i took some gasket maker stuff and put it around the foints to make sure it isnt leaking air, and it didtn do anything. tomorow ill try what you guys have said.

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justmerging
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The problem actually lies in the little metal tube that protrudes(sp?) from next to the throttle body. It must be hooked up to metered air(meaning in the intake pipe after the Maf sensor). This tube goes to the IACV(idle air control valve). If it is getting unmetered air, the car will run stupid rich. If it is blocked off the car just won't idle right. It is all hooked up for a reason. some stuff you can get rid of but this you cannot.

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popogto
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i changed everything back to original with the IACV tube in place. but its still running rich. could the o2 sensor or some other part got damaged while i was running rich before and prevent me from going back to normal?

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justmerging
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try resetting the ecu, it may be running in safe mode still from the previous setup. did you try checking the ecu for codes? that should give you an idea of where the problem lies.

jjdamon
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Car: 1992 nissan 240sx

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I had the same problem. I went to put a cold air filter on my 240 ,well my buddy was helpin and went yankin wires and pulled the maf sensor plug out. I had the same problems wouldnt rev over 2500 . took apart the sensor and sautered the connectors back and used gasket glue to put the cover back on .only 3 wires but 4 holes. problem solved...

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popogto
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jjdamon wrote:.... took apart the sensor and sautered the connectors back and used gasket glue to put the cover back on .only 3 wires but 4 holes. problem solved...
did you take apart the plug or the sensor itself?and is it hard to do? because i tried to pry the cover off and some black rubber came off.

jjdamon
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Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:49 am
Car: 1992 nissan 240sx

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My problem was my buddy tried to unplug the wire out of the sensor and it pulled out the little wires out of them holes. I had to pry off the little black cover to the sensor. Then there was a little metal cover. Took that off to expose the actual sensor module. Sautered the wires. Put it back together. Used gasket glue on the plastic cover. It worked for me. But Im not a mechanic byany means. But Its woth checking it out because those are pretty expensive, especially from nissan. But keep askin around.

jjdamon
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Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:49 am
Car: 1992 nissan 240sx

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The car also wiil not drive right unless you have that sensor plugged in. If its agood sensor then you have to put it back on.

nismojunkie
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Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 4:36 pm

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my car has been running damn rich, tomorow ill try to hook up the iacv tube back into the air intake. i have tried everything and it is driving me freakin crazy.

nothingFancy
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you need that thick rubber hose connected to the intake for VACUME. not the 1 on the head, the 1 going into the intake manifold. i did the same think. since i didnt feel like welding a thing for the intake for the hose i just took my stock piece of rubber boot from the original intake and took a air tool end piece were you connect the air hose to your air tool* forgot what that thing is called* well i put that on 1 of the rubber boots and connected the vacume hose. works great, got rid of the crappy idle. maf is fine . dont worry about your maf, you just need that vacume hose connected

nismojunkie
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Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 4:36 pm

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i hooked up the iacv tube, and it runs great, no more gas spitting out the exhaust, it idles near perfect. and i can feel a difference with the intake bein 3 feet shorter

Nanno
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Car: 1984 Nissan 300ZX Anniversary Edition

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okay, i plan on doing this project for the custom short ram very soon and been checking out the options available. I see there is 2 parts to the intake system after the TB and between the MAS.

1. plyable rubber hose w/ one hose going to the valve cover2. hard plastic tubing w/ one going to the intake and a smaller one going... i dont know. and a huge one going down to... i dont know.

What hoses/vaccumes need to keep in place? And what have you guys done to keep or make a new bung for the vaccume lines? Any help please?


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