So my stock s13 has the rattle problem(loud, metal rattling from around idle to 1500 or so RPMs. After some searching on the forums, many many people have reported the same, stating that it could be worn guides and/or a loose chain, and that it's probably best to replace or remove those pieces.
Recently my car began to spring a small oil leak. After a brief, but throrough examination of the undercarriage it appears that my oil pan is covered in an oil 'sweat' where there is a thin layer of oil around the pan itself, and parts in about a half-foot radius around the oil pan are coated in oil. Searching on the forums tell me that it could be that the gasket in the oil pan is worn or that the rear main seal of the engine has gone bad.
It seems, however, that these two problems could be related. Further researching on the forums indicate that people have had the bad rattle that I'm having, and use a detergent type oil and then switch to synthetic of a grade of around 15w-40 or so. (FYI- I use nonsynthetic 10w-30 Penzoil, although I've heard that isn't too good... also I live in Austin, TX and summer is approaching (90-100 F a day)) I heard of the oil called Mobil1 Delvac, and looked it up and it appeared to be quite impressive.
Anyway, my question is:Has anybody had the same problem that I'm having, an oil leak and a rattling sound from the front of the valve cover, and used cleaner/delvac and then switched to synthetic or semi-synthetic, and had it fix itself?The reason I ask is because I've heard mixed responses of cleaning and then switching to synthetic based, heavier oils and their effect on a stock system with very high mileage (approximately 145K).
All answers and opinions are greatly appreciated.
Problem: Oil system or timing chain?
I wont get into oil brands since its a matter of personal preference. 10w30 is good for colder weather use, you should be using 15w40 or 10w40 at least for 100 degree weather. Also note that its ok to mix different weight oils as long as its the same brand and type. For example in NJ winter i use 10w30, then i use a mix of 10w30 and 10w40 for warmer weather. And I switch to 100% 10w40 in june,july, and august.
Theres tons of great threads by PalmerWMD about oils, enough to write a book. You can search for his threads if you want to learn more.
As for the rattle.... well thats actully caused by not enough pressure pushing against the chain to hold the slack. More slack will allow the chain to flop around and touch the guides. Tensioners are in charge of that but they losen up and wear over time. Replace the tensioners and guides (some guides you cant get anymore because they arent needed). If the chain is worn (easy to twist) then that will need to be changes as well. Thicker oil and oil detergents will not solve the rattle.
The oil leak and rattle are two seperate problems, if they were related you would have low/no oil pressure (oil light would be on and you would run out of oil REAL quick). You have to clean up all the messy engine grime and see where fresh oil comes from. Use a foamy engine degreaser/cleaner to clean up the area, drive it around for a day or two and see where the fresh oil is coming from. If the leak puts a bit of fresh oil on that area of the engine it will need to be fixed. If oil doesnt come from anywhere or just is wet around the seals the leaks probably isnt too bad, put the timing chain on the top of your repair list in either case.
Theres tons of great threads by PalmerWMD about oils, enough to write a book. You can search for his threads if you want to learn more.
As for the rattle.... well thats actully caused by not enough pressure pushing against the chain to hold the slack. More slack will allow the chain to flop around and touch the guides. Tensioners are in charge of that but they losen up and wear over time. Replace the tensioners and guides (some guides you cant get anymore because they arent needed). If the chain is worn (easy to twist) then that will need to be changes as well. Thicker oil and oil detergents will not solve the rattle.
The oil leak and rattle are two seperate problems, if they were related you would have low/no oil pressure (oil light would be on and you would run out of oil REAL quick). You have to clean up all the messy engine grime and see where fresh oil comes from. Use a foamy engine degreaser/cleaner to clean up the area, drive it around for a day or two and see where the fresh oil is coming from. If the leak puts a bit of fresh oil on that area of the engine it will need to be fixed. If oil doesnt come from anywhere or just is wet around the seals the leaks probably isnt too bad, put the timing chain on the top of your repair list in either case.
UPDATE -
Thanks, for the quick reply, p00t.Last night I jacked up the car and cleaned off all the oil/grime around the oil pan and rear main seal areas. My goal was to find the source of the leak. It took me about an hour to clean all that off with a minor degreaser, because the area around the oil pan was SOAKED in oilgrime, but not wet oil. It's hard to describe, but from underneath the car there is a place where it seems to have been leaking oil for a long time fom the front of the engine. It covers all the area from right above the alternator (the top of the alt. is not oiled) and extends down all over the pulleys down the the oil pan.
However, that's not where I found the wet oil. The wet oil is comming from what I'm assuming is the rear main seal. I'm guessing the rear main seal is on the undercarriage, about a foot and a half towards the back of the car from the oil pan, where it connects to another, larger black rectangular pan, which I'm assuming is for the transmission fluid.
So, three questions:1. Can anybody confirm for me that the place that is leaking is in fact the rear main seal?2. Can anybody figure out what might be the cause of the oil leak from the front of the engine, all over the pulleys?3. Do any of you have a general estimate on how much replacing the rear main seal, or the front main, or both, and if it is possible to do yourself with an engine lifter?
Thanks in advance for the responses!
Thanks, for the quick reply, p00t.Last night I jacked up the car and cleaned off all the oil/grime around the oil pan and rear main seal areas. My goal was to find the source of the leak. It took me about an hour to clean all that off with a minor degreaser, because the area around the oil pan was SOAKED in oilgrime, but not wet oil. It's hard to describe, but from underneath the car there is a place where it seems to have been leaking oil for a long time fom the front of the engine. It covers all the area from right above the alternator (the top of the alt. is not oiled) and extends down all over the pulleys down the the oil pan.
However, that's not where I found the wet oil. The wet oil is comming from what I'm assuming is the rear main seal. I'm guessing the rear main seal is on the undercarriage, about a foot and a half towards the back of the car from the oil pan, where it connects to another, larger black rectangular pan, which I'm assuming is for the transmission fluid.
So, three questions:1. Can anybody confirm for me that the place that is leaking is in fact the rear main seal?2. Can anybody figure out what might be the cause of the oil leak from the front of the engine, all over the pulleys?3. Do any of you have a general estimate on how much replacing the rear main seal, or the front main, or both, and if it is possible to do yourself with an engine lifter?
Thanks in advance for the responses!
Sounds logical to me. Check around the rear of the valve cover to make sure it's not coming from there. At the rear of the engine, those are the only 2 places I can think of that motor oil could leak from, besides the oil pan. There aren't too many places in all actually on the entire engine. Valve cover, front seal, rear seal, rear cover, timing cover(s) and oil pan. Head gasket too, but hardly ever. Did I miss any? Check the valve cover and front timing cover for the oil on the pulleys.