Problem after problem, help me before I burn it to the ground.

[Clawhammer]

In that SR shirt thread I said my SR was really reliable.

Then the new year hits and BAM blown head gasket.

Fixed it and stripped the oil feed in the process.

Fixed that and drove it for the first time today in over a month...

Idling at 10 inHg, I think it normally idled at 20. Characteristic of a boost leak. Can't find anything. It's probably there but I can't find it.

In first gear, by 1500 RPMs it's pushing a couple pounds of boost already! wtf? Grandma it to 3000 shift to second and it's boosting instantly on the shift.

BOV not blowing off under low boost (didn't right before I blew the HG too...)

If I let if fall below 1500-1000rpms and don't downshift to the next appropriate gear (i.e. lazy rolling pause-stops at stopsigns in second gear) it bogs down real bad. Normally this would cause a natural bog as the engine gets back up to speed, maybe some shaking you know. Not this, this bog is a, I push the pedal to the floor and nothing is happening almost. Real bad. Same happens when coasting through a turn and not downshifting (say 3 to 2 or 4 to 3). Not good.

Stopping and pushing the clutch in at a stop sign causes RPMs to drop to around 400 for a second, then it goes back up to normal.

So I was not up to taking it across town to work today (just drove it around my neighborhood a lot).

Come home 9 hours later, won't start now. Just cranks. What the hell I didn't touch anything.

So, if you read all that, which I tried to split it up so that it's not giant walls of words...

Why is it running weird and why will it not start now? Pretty soon the answer will be: because I pushed it into the backyard and set it on fire...

[boro drift]

I'll assume you have a boost leak tester? What happens when you hook it up? Does it have a gauge and if so what does it say when hooked up to air?

I ask because it does sound like a boost/vaccum leak.

It also sounds like the timing is off. Possibly a bad cas.

[Clawhammer]

No my friend with one moved away. I just went through and inspected all my couplers and vacuum lines. Also tightened all the couplers down just in case, while it was running. The usual.

I figured the timing was off and was gonna get a gun and check stuff out but now it won't even start.

Silly question, how do I check for spark on system like the SR with coil packs?

[boro drift]

You can use a 8mm spark plug wire. Strip some of the shielding off the end so about 1/4 of an inch of the core is sticking out and shove it in the end of the coil pack. Then just ground the plug like usuall.

Make a boost leak tester with a gauge, and spray soapy water all over everything! If you see bubbles, you got a leak.

[Clawhammer]

Alright the only thing I tested so far was fuel. It was cold and I decided to do some heavy drinking, but I think it's fuel. I popped the lines off the front and rear of the rail after priming the system and aside from a small splash, nothing else. Multiple times.

I don't have my fuel pressure gauge up here dammit, looks like I'll have to make another one. My FPR is like 3 months old though...

[SpeedRacer1]

Are you confident in your mechanical timing?

[Clawhammer]

On a scale of 1-10...I'd say an 8.5.

And that's only because I went around and around and around and around....and around

And could never get the silver links to match up. Well I could but with the tic mark on the crank pulley on the right (looking down at it).

So I think whatever retard had my motor before I did just threw the chain on...

Anyway, I #1 at TDC on the compression stroke with all the valves closed, the cam dimples lined up...everything but the silver links was where it was SUPPOSED to be...and I marked the links with silver paint (my own links), and put it all back together the exact same way.

Why, what do you have in mind, I'm not ruling ANYTHING out.

[nuts510]

what you're describing to me sounds like the cam timing is off this would explain your funny quick boot, you probably just have it off just one to that at all sure make the car run strange why you've got the valve cover off you can reach rack that they can't crank angle sensor marks are proper to. Several of the service manuals in particular the factory ones offer a good picture of how everything should be.

[jr_ss]

I'd personally throw a timing light on it. There is a small loop of wire on the coil pack harness, it's for using a timing light. You really can't miss it, it's close to the bulkhead/firewall/whatever the hell you want to call it.

See where you are with the timing, if it's way off when cranking, you'll know it. I'd also loosen the CAS bolts so you can turn it while cranking it.

[Clawhammer]

Roger that. I tested for fuel tonight before going out and everything seemed good.

[Clawhammer]

Looks like I'm not getting spark. I pulled the first coil pack and did what boro said. Nothing.

The engine didn't crank like normal though, more of a popping noise. Don't know how to describe it, but is this normal?

[Clawhammer]

Ok I lied it was just my battery running out of juice. I borrowed a new battery and I have spark.

[Clawhammer]

Did a compression test.

65 65 60 50

Three months ago it was:

165 165 160 165

What to do?

[burntricer]

did you compression test with the throttle WOT? ive made that mistake a few times

annd check your CAS or you have a boost leak. ill bet on it

[Clawhammer]

Haha yeah it was WOT. I've done that in the past too.

Oh I did try turning the CAS while cranking before the compression test, and it didn't help.

Where did everything go wrong here? I'm really at a loss as to the next step. I replaced my head gasket and now my compression is low. What'd I do wrong?

[mRodiek]

Leak in the headgasket? Idk lol Sorry to hear man, this is why Im scared to change mine, good luck though!