Problem after ECU, injectors and MAF

[4felix20]

was running good until i put in that stuff. enthalpy ECU for 50lb injectors and z32 MAF.

have good fuel pressure. car starts up, runs at about 2000rpm for a few seconds then RPMs slowly drop until she dies. hmmm ..i don't know where to start troubleshooting

[Chezedik]

Check for bent, broken, or corroded connectors and wires. Like maybe something going to the ECU. How did you connect the new MAF? Did you soldier? If not, that could be your problem. Also, be sure to check for continuity across the connection, and make sure you didn't cold soldier it.

[4felix20]

yup, i soldered the connections. i'll check the ECU pins. i'm not sure what cold soldering is.

[Chezedik]

Cold Soldering is when you apply too much soldier. It can actually cause it not to flow electricity. Check for continuity across your soldered ends.

[deviousKA]

Well cold soldering is more along the lines of having heated solder drop into a cold joint rather than heating the actual joint and feeding the solder, the situation usually ends up with what Chezedik mentioned.

Before you go taking the ecu again, pull your battery cable. Let it sit with disconnected for 30 seconds or so and then reinstall. Before you attempt to start it, check the ecu codes. The ecu will have not had a chance to pick anything up and you should get a code 55. Now, actually, if any of the codes read out properly your soldering should be ok, and if your ecu daughterboard is properly set to run on the tuned file, most of that should be ok as well (at least the main functions, not the tune necessarily).

If something isnt right when checking the codes or if your diagnostic light on the ecu is constantly on (doenst flash when turning knob then turning back), then you should look into your 40 pin and cj1 jumper soldering.

Make sure the tip of your soldering iron is very clean (wipe on wet sponge) and then add just a tiny bit of new solder and flux to the tip. After that, take your iron and simply reflow each of the solder joints, you dont need to add any more solder unless it is clear there isnt enough.

Pins 2/4 and pin 40 will be the most difficult and will take more heat, these are the ground and power for the daughtherboard. All other pins do not require much heat at all.

For the cj1 jumper, it is much easier to use a short length of wire (like resistor wire clipping) than it is to use the original smd jumper. The small wire is much easier to remove if you ever need to.

[4felix20]

i'm gonna unhook the battery and check for bent pins (which i think is unlikely, but still possible). and then i'll check those jumpers you talk about even though the diagnostic light does flash instead of staying lit constantly.
Modified by 4felix20 at 4:53 PM 4/16/2006

[Chezedik]

That is strange, I have had those three codes for a while as well. Is there actually any documentation saying that would indicate a failed ECU?

[4felix20]

i think i'm just bad at wiring..lol
Modified by 4felix20 at 4:53 PM 4/16/2006

[Chezedik]

It should tell you in the code scan.