Pricing of a private-party sale of 1990 Q45 with mods @ 85,000 miles

[breichert]

Is this worth $5,000? <>?

Engine and transmission replaced from Japan 2001

SOUND SYSTEM:ALPINE: CDA 9830 head unit cd/mp3 SPS 170A SPS 690A SWS 12 inch subwoofer TYPE-SROCKFORD FOSGATE Power T-5002 amplifier

EXHAUST: Magnaflow dual exhaust

BODY KIT: Xenon 6090

WHEEL & TIRES: 18’’ Zoom Volante rims 235 40 Ziex 512 rear 235 40 Federal SS595 front

SUSPENSION Tokico Shocks Blue Eibach Springs STILLEN control arm (front) Energy Suspension bushings

OTHER UPGRADES: STILLEN sport brake rotors First gear start Aluminum dash kits (24 pcs) Remote Start

REPLACED: Fuel pump Mass Air flow Power steering hose Brake pads

[96Qowner]

Um, there's no choice for yes.

But, yes, it's worth $5000 (to me).

[gniknave]

You know how I voted!

[Q451990]

Why was the engine replaced so soon? Did the replacement engine have updated chain guides installed?

Heath

[Rex]

Biggest piece of information to influence price is whether the plastic back chain cguides have been changed/updated or were in the replacement motor. Even so, I'd say no it's not worth $5k in a private party sale.

[DrewQ45]

How can you ask this without any pics? The car might look like a battle scarred humvee for all I know.

[Q45tech]

What am I missing a professional JDM engine replacement cost $4500 [however a typical half posterior job can be worthless] and a junk Q is worth $500.............that's $5,000 not counting any of the other junk.To me the sound system is a negative as is an aftermarket exhaust, same with body kit and 18" wheels/tires.

I would focus on transmission, drive shaft, entire AC system, rad, steering system---------------- not the bling.

[DuDro]

I will have to agree with you on this...

"....a picture is worth a thousand words."

[ddrumman]

Biggest piece of information to influence price is whether the plastic back chain cguides have been changed/updated or were in the replacement motor. Even so, I'd say no it's not worth $5k in a private party sale.

My thoughts exactly!!

To me the sound system is a negative.

May I ask why that is?

[Jeff Williams]

It is probably worth that, it those are the mods you want. AND they were done well. If the car lacks no general maintenance, it should be a good car. The key is, once you add all this stuff, you need to maintain it. The Tokiko blues are only good for about 60K miles (100K, if you have nice smooth roads, liek in Alabama). If any Q is kept to OEM mechanical standards, and the paint and finish is as nice as that photo shows, then it will be worth $5K. If it needs a transmission, suspension work, interior, and paint, it is worth about $500.

I have just about twice that much money in my 1994 Q45t, and I have been offered $6,000 for it. The guy keeps going up every time he sees me. The problem is, I keep spending more on the car, too.

I personally don't like that body kit.

[Q45tech]

After living with a Q for 16 years, I think $3,000 is the max I would pay for any 90-95 Q assumming I would need to spend $3,000 to fix it then $3,000 per year thereafter max.

Spend $3,000 to buy, then $3,000 immediately, then $3,000--$2,400 over the next 12 months [assumming 15-20k driven]..............hopefully less..............none of which would be for asthetics. With this plan I would assume no expensive surprises [engine, transmission, AC, rack, ds, diff].

I am somewhat spoiled in that parts only cost me 70-75% and labor is $40/hour plus my own. I just can't imagine paying retail dealer costs.

[maxnix]

Worth about $2500 at most if all the crap hung on it works properly.

Who knows about the engine?

Not worth a thing if you don't have a $6K to $8K cash kitty to invest on rehabilitation.

[Rex]

I will have to agree with you on this...

"....a picture is worth a thousand words."

Check the attachement in his first post.

[FarFetched]

I would focus on transmission, drive shaft, entire AC system, rad, steering system---------------- not the bling.

Nowdays it is not an important issue. What important is how much glamour you have in your ride! When I sold my OldLady, the guy who bought it didn't bother to ask details on how I took care of it. It shows me that most people (majoirty) don't give rats behind about what's inside, all they want is that brief moment of glory before a great fiasco!Cheers!

[DrewQ45]

Not trying to be negative but with only 85K on the clock, this car would have averaged 5,312 miles yearly in 16 yrs. In 2001 it should have had roughly 58K but it needed engine AND transmission replacement??? I'd say be careful as there either may have been some tampering with the odo, or the car was severly ABUSED. Only a detailed inspection and guides being replaced would make this car worth something. Carfax would definately be in order on this one.

...Drew....

[maxnix]

Carfax would definately be in order on this one.

...Drew....

Carfax can be fooled easily.

That is why the Infiniti dealer performed service history is best for verifying mileage.

[louiegz]

Carfax can be fooled easily.

That is why the Infiniti dealer performed service history is best for verifying mileage.

Sound advice. I just wonder how many dealers would actually take the time to do it. My service department seems like they cant be bothered to do anything extra that they dont make any money on. I've been meaning to ask. My Q was my father's, but I dont have any of his service records. I havn't been there in a while because I only go there when I need something big done. I'm not paying dealer prices for an oil change. I get those done at the oil change place.

[maxnix]

I'm not paying dealer prices for an oil change. I get those done at the oil change place.

After I supply M1 and original OEM filter, $17.50 and I have a tech look at the car for free.

[DrewQ45]

Sound advice. I just wonder how many dealers would actually take the time to do it. My service department seems like they cant be bothered to do anything extra that they dont make any money on. I've been meaning to ask. My Q was my father's, but I dont have any of his service records. I havn't been there in a while because I only go there when I need something big done. I'm not paying dealer prices for an oil change. I get I those done at the oil change place.

I admit that they can be fooled but Carfax is better than nothing and I'd definately recommend it for this car.

My car has been to the dealership 2 or 3 times since 98' but is decently maintained....by me. Maxnix, most sellers with a 10+ year old car haven't been running it to the dealer for regular maintenance.

[louiegz]

After I supply M1 and original OEM filter, $17.50 and I have a tech look at the car for free.

Well, gee, I wish I had a dealer like yours. My dealer wants like $60.00 for an oil change and perform 3000 mile service. I guess that's the difference between NJ and Texas.

[maxnix]

Might be, but .5 or less hrs should be the charge with your own consumables.

[Q451990]

[off topic rant]

After I supply M1 and original OEM filter, $17.50 and I have a tech look at the car for free.

After my recent experiences with my local dealership, I think I'll keep doing everything I can myself! It would probably be cheaper to let them do it vs. the cost of my time - but at least I know all of my freaking parts will be there!

We stopped by the dealer tonight, only to find our car sitting out in the main lot (not behind the security fence). They washed the car and put the ghetto shine stuff on the wheels (after I specifically said "no wash")

When they replaced the battery they didn't get the cowl clipped down correctly, didn't put the cover back on etc. This is after it started spewing acid within hours of them pronouncing it "OK" - the day after it left my wife stranded! Oh, at least they replaced the retainer clip they broke on Wednesday...

I'll keep only trusting myself to work on my cars to the extent that I have the ability!

Heath

[/ off topic rant]

[maxnix]

Sloppy dealers are no friends. Usually they at least take the engine tray off and replace bad retainers.

When I met MicrosoftQ45, the dealer had left one of his air filter box clamps undone. No excuse.

[Q45tech]

After you pay for a detailed complete list of everything that must be changed to bring a used car back to brand new, then you should use mileage to estimate useful life of ALL components that haven't failed yet.

This way you can determine what the REAL 5 year cost of owning operating fueling insuring the potential used car will be.

Michelin tires almost always turn out to be cost effective when viewed over 40,000 miles and the rotation and balancing required [not required].

Short term thinking instead of annual and 5 year prorate fool people into buying parts based on price alone!.

I always try to create a full days work when I schedule a major replacement:Something like $1000-$2,000 in parts at wholesale, that way I can bargain a full day for <$500 [side job labor]...........unfortunately diverse groups of components don't fail in sync at the same interval.

Brakes and upperlinks, then brakes, upper links, tension rods, and shocks and spark plugs , then brakes and upper links again.

Many times you must get into habit of changing things before they fail to optimize labor savings.

[FarFetched]

After you pay for a detailed complete list of everything that must be changed to bring a used car back to brand new, then you should use mileage to estimate useful life of ALL components that haven't failed yet.

This way you can determine what the REAL 5 year cost of owning operating fueling insuring the potential used car will be.

Michelin tires almost always turn out to be cost effective when viewed over 40,000 miles and the rotation and balancing required [not required].

Short term thinking instead of annual and 5 year prorate fool people into buying parts based on price alone!.

I always try to create a full days work when I schedule a major replacement:Something like $1000-$2,000 in parts at wholesale, that way I can bargain a full day for <$500 [side job labor]...........unfortunately diverse groups of components don't fail in sync at the same interval.

Brakes and upperlinks, then brakes, upper links, tension rods, and shocks and spark plugs , then brakes and upper links again.

Many times you must get into habit of changing things before they fail to optimize labor savings.

I like you practical approach and sound mentality!However, only few chosen ones will follow this proven path!It is like preping your rig for an off-road venture (been there, done that). You get things in order before they fail on the trail. I hope people listen to what you say!Cheers!
Modified by FarFetched at 3:29 PM 6/5/2006

[breichert]

I'm a newbie to this forum and don't know how to view the poll to know how you voted -no?

May I ask why?

[breichert]

I'm a newbie to this forum and don't know how to view the poll to know how you voted -no?

May I ask why?