Prevented overheat, now brake and battery light on

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Onizuka
Posts: 8450
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 5:24 pm
Car: 91 Nissan S13 coupe SR20DET
89 Nissan S14 hatch SR20DE

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I saw sitting at the drivethrough and i dont have my fan hooked up yet so the stock gauge started to rise just a little. It went maybe like 3/4ths up max, I put the heater on full blast then turned off the car after the temps stabilized. I turned it back on, everything is fine and went on my way. Half way home the brake light turns on and the battery light iturns on but very dim. The car drives completely normally so im pretty confused. I caught the overheat way before it could have caused damage and didnt put any load on the motor when the temp gauge started to rise, maybe its just coincidence?

Any clue as to what this could be would be great :help


mikesloud
Posts: 105
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 6:29 am
Car: turbos and SPL world champ

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Check the engine control fuse under hood ,I think it is a 10 amp. That should fix that problem.

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Coolwhip
Vendor
Posts: 3138
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 7:29 am
Car: RB26 Raw Brokerage War Machine
Location: Orlando, FL
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well i'm positive that when the 2 lights come on (brake and battery) its your alternator... Happen to both nissans i owned and always happen on a alternator problem... but the overheat issue i believe once it starts moving your on the edge of overheating b/c the stock gauge has such a wide rage of temp for the middle... good luck

180fan
Posts: 7799
Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2002 12:16 pm
Car: 89 fastback

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yeah I'm with Coolwhip on this one. My brake light was brightly lit and would buzz at different rpm, the battery light very dimmly lit with it going out when the brake light would go out too.

mikesloud
Posts: 105
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 6:29 am
Car: turbos and SPL world champ

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Hey check your ecm fuse , engine control fuse. Mine did it and I could never figure it out , and behold it was the 10 amp blown fuse that was freaking car out . battery light dim and come on at higher rpm brake on .

mynismo
Posts: 510
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2003 5:03 pm

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it depends when you overheat.. when it starts to move its around 215F~. when its at about one bar from the H (235F) is just about when you start to overheat. my last car i drove quite a bit at 3/4 when the fmic was blocking the radiator, and i never had any fatal engine probs. when it gets about one bar from the H is when you have to start worrying. again, it depends on your radiator, radiator cap and coolant setup. if you have all coolant and a good radiator cap it wont start to boil until around 260F.


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