pretty broad but I need to know....

[crakin]

I need to make about 600+ hp at the wheels.... I need to know what you people think I should do starting from engine to parts.....I'm thinking s15 sr20 with a stroker ontop of other things but I need to know like what maf to use what size injectors, how big of a turbo....what I should do to the head...there aren't any real tuner shops around here so I'm trudging it alone....basically a ballpark parts list that would be a practical daily driver but a badass 240...thanks

[elgarvo616]

why do you NEED 600+ rwhp? what are you building this for? usually those who ask how to make this much power, do not have the money to do it. youre gonna need some real deep pockets.

i just saw you want to daily drive this too? wow. good luck with that.

search my friend, you are not the first to ask this question.

[crakin]

I am gonna be able to afford it. I work damn near 24/7 for it.....

[T-rev]

if you're gonna daily drive this, keep in mind you will have an absurdly wild and useless powerband, basically have to rip the snot out of it or shoot N20 to spool the pumpkin sized turbo you will have on it.

Also you wont be running pump gas, that's for sure, you may even need leaded race gas. Avgas might work tho, got an airport nearby? Don't forget about alcohol or water injection.

Probably have more luck with a RB26DET, 2JZ swap, or twin turbo LS1.

[crakin]

man I am just looking to get out of hand so I have a reason to get a new dd

[jr_ss]

then RB26 it... You'll get the power you want and then some.

[doridori23]

OK unless you have owned or have worked on a 500+ whp S-Chassis stop posting.

First off grats on wanting an SR with balls. I would sudgest a Red top motor as there is no variable valve and they are a lot simpler with more available parts.

Secondly For the motor build-up You should go with a BC 2.35L stroker kit however you will NEED to upgrade the con-rods (just give them a call and they can hook you right up). I would also highly suggest a WPC treatment which they can also hook you up with. The head setup would also be from Crower you'll be tempted to go over 272 deg cams but don't as your idle will be 1000+ or it will lope like crazy and that will get you some unwanted attention. Get a solid lifter kit possibly by Tomei. BC can also offer you +1mm Stainless valves. I would send the head to Head Games in Florida. Give them everything for the head and you'll get a CNC porting job (very few shops in the US have a CNC capable of porting an SR20 head and only 3 are preprogrammed) with a 5angle intake and generic radius exhaust +1mm assembled by some of the best int he country.

For the turbo I would go with a Garret 3071 series WITH a 150 NOS shot for ridiculous HP times. The GT30 will have a decent spoolup for driving around town and you can just push the NOS when you NEED those 600+ ponies. If you don't want NOS go with a Garret GT3582R w/ .82ar and a T04E Compressor housing on a Peak Boost top-mount manifold. This will not be fully spooled until approx 4500 RPM (The p&p will help but how much depends on the comp ratio, cams lift and duration, valve sizing, blah blah blah). At 32PSI I have seen this turbo produce 625whp but that is the max efficient boost level.

You will also NEED a Split-Fire DIS setup KOYO Rad with FAL fans Standalone engine management (no piggyback can support 800+ cc/min injectors reliably and I recommend AEM's Standalone) multilayer head-gasket ARP Head studs Twin Walbro or comparable system (Aeromotive makes an excellent pump capable of 1000hp, uses a removable filter, AN fittings, FPR mad for the pump, and is sexy as hell) Custom 3.5" or greater exhaust system (3" has too much back-pressure past 500hp) DriveShaftShop driveshaft and axles (Call them and tell them your motor, trans, chassis, HP goals, and length needed and you'll be set)

You should have your trans taken apart, inspected and cryo-treated. It was not made to take anywhere near this power level and will likely grenade if you do not. A custom gear set and main shaft is available through OS Giken but it is going to cost a pretty penny.

RB motors weigh more than the SR and ride like a donkey. They have no room int he engine compartment and parts are still difficult to get and cost more than you want to know (Especially to get the motor built).

You can run 93 octane (91 if thats all you have) and you'll be fine it is all in the injector sizing. For track days VP Fuels MS109 (109 unleaded) will allow you to up the boost a little and advance the timing for nutty power levels. Leaded gas will only tear you O2 and CAT up. You will NEED a CAT for your yearly inspection but after that take the damn thing off.

Once your done you will have a fast car but keep in mind that when under boost its just another NA 4banger (good on gas but slow as hell) powerband from 4500-9000 is pretty decent but with our short gearing you will develop popeye-like forearms in no time.

Sorry for the book but I know I have forgotten a few things.

[DriftReadyS13]

well said. i hate ppl falming. he wants 600 whp so leave it at that and stop asking why, if you dont know how or have nothing good to say dont post. btw gl with the build

[Hijacker]

Everyone play nice, and thank you for the post dori