Hey all - today should be the day that I get my engine block back from the machine shop. it will be a while before i put the studs on because my pistons are on backorder, but I'd like to become knowledgable about it before i go at it. The guides I have read online say to clean the threads with some sort of "thread chaser". Where can i get one like that for this engine that has an odd thread pitch?
Also, i know I should use thread sealant, but is there any loc-tite involved? I would just imagine if there wasn't, when one went to take the head off, the stud would start spinning out instead of just the nut.
I have read some people do the "stretching" way of fastening these things, but aren't these things not supposed to stretch? I haven't found any guides that are consistent about everything.
What should they be torqued to in the end?
Prepping for ARP Head studs
ARP suggests that the only thing you use is their thread lubricant when you install. you're supposedly meant to tighten the studs in as far as they'll go up to 90lbs. in reality they wont likely make it past stock the first time. then the "stretching" on these is really more like settling everything into place, go back after 2-3 heat cycles and re-tighten both the studs themselves and the nuts as well. go to 90lbs
Re: (Tycar)
well for you fist question. bring your ARP Head bolt to sears or autozone or nappa and give it to them and say do you have a chaser for this. they will give you a kit. which is a tap and dye kit. that is all that is. why do you have to do this is because coolant and oil build up or fall down into the holes and will cause a restriction and give you a faulty torque yield or seating of the bolts. so when you get the right pitch. just screw it into the holes by hand don't put too much force on that, and use shop air and blow out whats in it. WATCH YOUR EYES. stuff will fly out. For ARP bolts just use their bolt lube that they supply you put some on the threads and walk it down till it is seated. don't force it. just hand tight. you should be able to loosen these bolts with just your index finger and thumb. that is all.all head bolt stretches why because your engine have heat expansion and cooling down period. like the air in you tires. increase when hot and loose a couple psi when cold. tightening these bolts is a two step process first you need to tight them to a certain torque. first you have to put your front cover and torque those two bolts first. then you do the head from the inside out.fist pass- torque it to 50ft lbs front the inside out. the second pass to 70 ft lbs same thing from the inside out. if you read the ARP instruction i think that say to torque it to like 150 lbs. DON'T. I've done a few of these already for my friends and their motor is at optimal performance right now no problem. and i am in the process doing my own. so i will not tell a lie.it is important that you take your time and focus. its not hard. and if you already disassemble your motor and sent it out you can easily put it back together. good luck. correction on the two front bolts for the front cover DO NOT torque those to 70 ft lbs. just just use stock spec.6-8 ft lbs
Modified by Bongpain at 5:25 PM 6/4/2009
Modified by Bongpain at 5:25 PM 6/4/2009
Re: (Bongpain)
sorry to dig up this thread but i had forgotten about it, but i wanted to bump this for the extra helpful information