I plan on getting the dents removed pretty soon, I have a hand rotary sander so it shouldn't be too bad, what grain would you recommend?elwesso wrote:Do you have any body damage that needs fixed before you proceed?
I'm actually considering doing this too and the first thing you need to do is get any and all body damage fixed.. If you have any dents, I would suggest taking it to a paintless dent removal place and having that done first. They could probably do the car for $100-$200 and that would eliminate a lot of work later, because any body filler you use you have to use primer.
Otherwise, everything I've seen you basically just need to scuff the surface and then paint. Sanding is the worst part.
I plan on driving my car to Maaco so how would you suggest I tape off the windows and such? Should I just tape them off at Maaco or just pay a little extra and let them do it?leesredgt wrote:Basically just sand and sand and sand and sad lol I just got done painting mine.
my-uplanned-mr2-build-project-t540135-30.html
Came out pretty good i think especially for someone that doesn't do it everyday.
I fixed all the dents in it myself with a lil bit of bondo, but like elwesso said you'll need to prime over every spot you do. And then of course sand and sand until its babys butt smooth. lol
PANDAemic wrote:Can you give a list of materials that you'd recommend i get?
Encryptshun wrote:<A class=vglnk title="Link added by VigLink" href="http://www.google.com" rel=nofollow vglnk_1320764640010="1">http://www.google.com</A>
If you have to ask questions like "what materials should I get", you're either too lazy to do this work yourself or too uninformed.
Go do some homework.
frapjap wrote:I don't recommend going to metal without a beter quality paint job (read: not Maaco). Burn through the clear and a little bit of the base coat and you'll be alright.
Using your hand sander, go over the entire car, panel by panel. Do the nooks and crannies by hand. In either case, start with 80 grit, then 100, then 120, then 160, 180, and finally 220 w/wet sand. Skip steps and it'll show in the final product. The best paint jobs are the ones with the best prep work. You may find some additional dings and dents while doing this. I suggest filling them and then repeating the same steps on the affected areas BY HAND until they're blended in smoothly with no dips, creases, or ridges.
Pro tip- 3M sandpaper lasts the longest (in my experience) and is well worth the extra buck or two for the pads.
Tape off the car yourself. Those guys couldn't care about overspray and windows. Don't be cheap and use heavy brown paper, not newspaper. Get blue painters tape. Don't forget to mask off wheel wells, wheels & tires (burlap bags work well for this), fog light holes, side mirrors, etc.
As for colors, go to Autozone and look at the duplicolor book for find out what the color codes are.
The reason why I ask for materials IS because google didn't help. most sites are either very vague on what is needed or just plain not helpful. Google may seem convenient but it's not always the most helpful.Encryptshun wrote:http://www.google.com
If you have to ask questions like "what materials should I get", you're either too lazy to do this work yourself or too uninformed.
Go do some homework.
mmkeller wrote:Don't forget the tac rag, I use just before first coat of paint.
By "paint store" I didn't mean go to a body shop and ask, I mean go to a store that sells automotive paint and body supplies and ask. They are around.PANDAemic wrote:I've been to a lot of places, all they ever recommend me is to get the prep work done at the store because its much better. I tell them I can't because I'm on a budget and then they just tell me to leave. People in my area are a bunch of d*cks...
Note takenEncryptshun wrote:The only thing you should ever ask for at an O'Reilly's is directions to a different store.