Preparing KA24de for future boost

[chad_KAT]

Hey guys im sorta new here just lurking the forums and what not.

Im getting a 95 or 96 240sx within this month. and i plan on doing a engine rebuild when i get the car. this is what i want to do...

-shotpeened and balanced KA24de rods.-9:1 forged pistons (not sure on brand).-cometic head gaskit.-ARP MAIN and Head studs-bunged oilpan with cap untill turbo set-up is on.-Clutch Specialities Stage III Clutch 6 puck.-Fidanza Flywheel - All proper machining work and bearings .20 overbore ect..

with all that said, thats all i can afford as of now after i buy the car.

I would like to do all that and make it a daily driver untill i have to funds to get my turbo setup which will be BD stage 1 and Phat ka-t's fuel kit. Tial wastegate and most likely an AEM EMS. and a few more little things but that could be a few months down the road.

Im not sure if this would be possible to do with the 9:1 CP ratio with the stock fuel system??? if this is possible what will i need to do to get the car running right with this set up with no turbo set up. just fuel management like the SAFC II. The main reason im doing this is becasue i dont want to worry about just slapping a turbo kit on a stock motor without doing anything to it first....just not reliable too my eyes. and if i get a 240sx it MOST LIKELY going to have over 100k on the car. sorry for this being somwhat long and maybe dumb( please dont slam me) any help thanks for reading my newbie questions. Let me know if you think i forgot anything.

p.s if you ask why i just dont do it all at once i got bills and i got tuition to pay for my first year at UTI.

[4felix20]

sounds good to me. your compression and stock fuel concerning driveability would be just fine until you got your turbo all set up.

[turbo98_240sx]

Yeah that sounds well thought out and Welcome to NICO nice to see some one new that knows anything about anything HAHA Seriously tho Welcome to NICO

[chad_KAT]

oh ok thanks guys just had to me sure. yep i'll be sticking around here for awhile keeping all you peeps up to date on my project.

[nil5]

hey i am new as well, and have similar plans as you.

My question is would it be possible to do all the same things as you, except run 8.5:1 pistons n/a?

thanks.

[4felix20]

yes it would nil5, but you would see a little more low end loss of power. it should be still very 'daily driveable' though....but i'm no expert.

[TheOne]

it should be ok, but with the 8.5 comp ratio you will see less hp than stock cause of the lower comp.as for 9:1 it should be ok on stock injectors and everything, it would be like a stock engine just with stronger internals, + its good because you will break in the engine before slapping a turbo.

[Jookmasta]

i would just make sure all of the non-turbo related stuff is in order (timing chain, leaks, etc.). obviously you could check the compression but if ur going to b tearing apart the engine anyways, u should b fine.

[chad_KAT]

yeah im doing alot of research. still wondering if i should just get my ROD i mean rod's shotpeened or if i should laydown 600 bucks on a pair of forged rods for reliability. and im going to get a mild port and polish and leave the cylinder head all stock. What do you guys think of the pistons they got on BD's site, or should i go with a set of wiseco polished pistons?

[DammitBobby]

PJ was selling the Wiseco pistons but switch because the machine shop he was using said that the wiseco pistons varied to much in diameter.

[dft24ds]

chad_KAT:I would like to do all that and make it a daily driver untill i have to funds to get my turbo setup which will be BD stage 1 and Phat ka-t's fuel kit.

hey bro why don't you just get the stage 2 from BD?

[rn240sx]

Just promise us that u WONT go to the DARK SIDE... .... .... DARTH SR20..

[chad_KAT]

hey bro why don't you just get the stage 2 from BD?[/QUOTE]

Id rather build my own kit sorta. I like phat ka-t's fuel set-up more. and now im thinking on only getting the mani and downpipe and fmic from BD's now...

[turtl631]

Good call, I'm thinking about doing the same thing. I don't want their wastegate, BOV, fuel rail, etc, but the mani and IC setup look good and are cheap.

[chad_KAT]

TurboSmart Dual Port BOV

Turbonetics T3/T04E 50 trim .48 exhaust (will the BD downpipe and mani work on this turbo. could not figur out flanges for the DP?) (IDK) forged pistons

Shotpeen stock Rods

Crower Springs and Retainers

Exhaust Manifold and Downpipe

Boost Designs Intercooler kit

Phat kat's fuel kit

ARP MAIN and HEAD studs

COMETIC headgasket

Main and Rod bearings

AEM EMS

Tial wastegate 1.2Bar Apexi SAFC2

This is basicly what i want to do. not including little stuff like guages, hardware ect... im still looking for a wideband o2 kit to get but not worried as of now. correct me on anything you might not think will work. omg i need to sell my waverunner and dirtbikes!

[IvanAtSPRacing]

I would recomend Arias pistons. They are the best pistons IMO and are reasonably priced. They are also the ONLY KA pistons PROVEN to handle 750 crank HP.

Instead of shotpeend stock rods, go for ARP rod bolts instead.

Springs and retainers wont be needed if your not running large lift cams or lots of boost.

Good choice on the fuel system.

ARP main and head studs are a good idea. The stock main bolts get torqued to 48 lbs versus the ARPs at 70 lbs

Cometic gasket is a good idea for bigger boost.

I would recomend the Clevite bearings. They are inexpensive and WORK. Again, the only KA bearings PROVEN to handle 750 crank HP.

AEM EMS is the bomb.

Tial WG is another awesome choice but 1.2 bar is LARGE boost. Shoot for something a bit lower.

SAFC II not needed with AEM. Take that money and buy a AEM UEGO (WB O2) or get it built into the EMS by ordering the U option.

[chad_KAT]

Thanks a lot. I did not realize i still had that safc on my to get list still The car im getting has about 130k miles, just leave the rods alone and get new rod bolts instead??? damn those must be good rods from factory.

for the springs and retainers, i was only going to buy those if the stock ones are not in spec or no good anymore. or is it a lot cheaper to just get oem springs and retainers?? thats if ineed them.

[IvanAtSPRacing]

hahah.. I know how mod lists change

Yes, the factory rods are strong, but I just wouldnt trust the stock bolt to hold up. Do the ARPs as they are inexpensive (compared to new rods) You can still get the rods shotpeened, polished, cryo treated, etc... most important would be the bolts tho.

Stock springs even with 130k miles are probably still up to the task. Upgraded springs and retainers are 400 bux min.

[chad_KAT]

oh yea you said that the 1.2bar WG was too much boost? what would you recomend Ivan?

[IvanAtSPRacing]

We usually sell the Tial with the .6 bar spring (8.7 psi) and you can use a boost controller to run more boost. http://www.tialsport.com for all the avaible springs.

[chad_KAT]

oh ok that route sounds good too.

Thanks everyone for the input!~chad