preforming an engine flush

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Evanarc
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this is a question for the afficinados out there

I usually always get the premium high mileage oil when i get a change, i was just wondering if getting an engine flush every once in a while does the Q n e good. what about the differential fluid? n e other suggestions not mentioned in the ultimate Q45 maintenance schedule would be greatly appreciated.thanks guys


maxnix
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When I changed to synthetic oil, I envirolution flushed my crankcases. I have seen the results from abused engines of this reverse flush (sometimes performed more than once in succession), and although it won't fix everything, it will definitely get the sludge out of the oil pan. I require another pint of lubricant after I have had it done, which in my case is always a can of MOA.

http://www.envirolution.com

And read the previous posts mentioning it for more detail.

oldmako
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IMO, the most important thing one can do for the engine is to make sure it never needs a flush. In other words, change the oil often using good oil and filters. But, if you are like me (poor white trash) and cannot afford a new car, then you have to weigh the options of having a sludgy engine versus flushing so much crap out (and into the oil passages) that you do more harm than good.

I do not know the answer, other than anecdotal evidence I have amassed in 30+ years of wrenching on used cars.

For example... My starter wife had an 85 VW GTI that she bought used. (That was a HELL of a ride, but that's not germane to this thread). We came home from two weeks away and one HYD lifter would NOT shut up after start and subsequent oil warm up. It was a high mileage car. I added half a quart of kero to a half a quart of oil and SLOWLY poured the mix into the engine as it idled. I then let it idle for 10 mins or so and gently revved the engine to about 1500 or so. I then pulled the plug and let it drain for an hour or so. Refilled with decent oil and that was that.

Not only did the noise go away, but that sumbitch ran like chainsaw on meth after that. It was like an infomercial!!

I have had other similar results with trucks, cars and boat engines. But, you need to take it easy and don't expect results right away. I never add more than about 1/2 quart (at most) to an engine.

As far as the rear end goo.....I think a diff is over a grand for one of these things. Two quarts of M1 are less than $25 and getting a shop to do it costs another 20 bucks. Why not???

I change out all the jizz's in all my rides except for blinker fluid. It's cheap insurance and makes me FEEL like I'm taking care of my stuff. Old brake fluid black...new brake fluid...clear...what's not to like??

Metal bits tend to be pricey. Even the most expensive oil is cheeep in comparison. Flush that Mofo.

AlabamaDan
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Changing the diff is easy, but perhaps messy. You don't need anything except the rachet, a catch pan and the little pump to go on the gear oil bottles. Mine was still pretty good when I changed it, which made me feel even better. Do that!

As far as flushing the engine, no comments.

captainluigi
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I had a HLA ticking at around 120k. I used the BG quik clean over two oci's. Now silent. Works for me. The BG eng. & trans clean are identical in chem. make up per MSDS.

An aside; Use REDLINE INJECTOR CLNR. BG does not have the amyltriptiline or whatever the good stuff was. REDLINE S1 DOES. That and 99% IPA evrytime keeps the injectors quiet-er.

AlabamaDan
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captainluigi wrote:IAn aside; Use REDLINE INJECTOR CLNR. BG does not have the amyltriptiline or whatever the good stuff was. REDLINE S1 DOES. That and 99% IPA evrytime keeps the injectors quiet-er.
Will this stuff fix an injector or save them from going bad?

maxnix
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No, it is a crankcase solution and should never see the inside of an injector in normal operation.

Q45tech
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Unfortunately MSDS only show ranges of chemicals not exact concentration of each.

Quick Clean for Engines and Quick Clean for transmissions have a different BASE OIL, smell different and flow differently.

Based on room temperature evaporation test the for Engines seems to be designed to evaporate faster sitting on the bench............For Engines is flammable whereas the for Transmissions will not burn easily.

BG has about a dozen different treatments each for individual components.

NightRiderQ45
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captainluigi wrote:I had a HLA ticking at around 120k. I used the BG quik clean over two oci's. Now silent. Works for me. The BG eng. & trans clean are identical in chem. make up per MSDS.

An aside; Use REDLINE INJECTOR CLNR. BG does not have the amyltriptiline or whatever the good stuff was. REDLINE S1 DOES. That and 99% IPA evrytime keeps the injectors quiet-er.
Gumout Regane is another great alternative.

captainluigi
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AlabamaDan, if you are asking about the REDLINE it will not fix a faulty injector. It will clean them however. Cannot recall the ingredient in BG44K that is now absent but present in REDLINE. Actually thed REDLINE worked better for me.

qship96
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captainluigi wrote:AlabamaDan, if you are asking about the REDLINE it will not fix a faulty injector. It will clean them however. Cannot recall the ingredient in BG44K that is now absent but present in REDLINE. Actually thed REDLINE worked better for me.
Poly Ether Amine.....30-50% by volume

BG44k use to use it til they castrated it in 2005....now contains NONE

Go to http://www.redlineoil.com and click on SI-1 MSDS for more informaton

I have 4 cans of BG44k, will sell for $60 plus shipping to anyone out there still believing in it. Joe is asking $20 per can

maxnix
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Ad right below this thread:

Run Your Car on Water

Do you know about this way to add water to fuel and save on gas?

YouBetterReadThis.com

AlabamaDan
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So we're not BG-44k fans anymore?

qship96
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Who knows for sure, as the ingrediants have changed at least once since 2004, and MSDS shows evidence of severe change in chemical makeup.

Personally, I think all the additives, lotions, potions, etc promoted by BG products and others are unnecessary in most vehicles, and are products that claim to be solutions in search of a problem.The major benefit is to the repair shops profit margin.

I personally drove my g20 150,000 mile without ever using ANY fuel, oil, transmission,etc additives or cleaners and it ran like new when traded for the Q

In the 215,000 miles on my Q, I have used injector cleaner maybe 6 times, never ran any differently.


jimbyjimb
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Sometimes I throw in Chevron fuel system cleaner or 104+ octane boost. I like the boost, it's the most fun.

AlabamaDan
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Until I put some BG44k in my Q about 4 years ago, I'd never used anything in anything. (Well maybe slick 50 about 20 years ago.) But when I put that stuff in my Q I could tell a real difference. I tried some of the cheaper AutoZone shelf stuff and it was nothing that I could tell. I did notice that last year when I used BG44k in my Q45 and QX4 it wasn't as dramatic.

Q45tech
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I'm not sure that humans are sensitive enough to tell the difference in adding additives to lubricants or fuels.

Most " for sale" products are very mild and if anything positive occurs it takes multiple applications and multiple tanks of gasoline and an extremely sensitive SCIENTIST with expensive lab test equipment.

Expecting something you can buy EASILY to improve or correct 10 years of abuse is foolish. Pure snake oil marketing.

Even BG Products cannot repair damages or wear, at best they might clean things up with a year or two of use. Even MOA just adds extra Zinc to fortify oil at the expense of some cat life [those engines that burn excessive oil].

The are no magic in a bottle except maybe insulin and a few antibiotics.



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