power steering loss power
power steering loss power
Hi again, recently, when i turn right or left, my steering was very stiff, i go to the garage and the strap was new from 4 month ago so he just band the strap and the problem was ok...but 3 days ago he do the same thing...some people told it could be power steering pump or the gear box?? It look like the power steering have not enought pressure???
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Chuck Tribolet
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Re: power steering loss power
Did you check the power steering fluid level? The procedure should be in your owner's manual.
Re: power steering loss power
yes i check, it was full.
Re: power steering loss power
Explain "and the strap was new from 4 month ago " and "just band the strap and the problem " If you are referring to the power steering belt it may need adjuting, but if stretched beyond, then replace. But before you replace, try turning the power steering pump by hand, a vane pump is easy to turn. Also the vanes may be jammed, easy fix but more difficult to get out of the engine bay. Also the pressure relief valve has to be checked.
As you try investigating the pump, jack up the front end and move the wheels right and left lock to lock with engine off and feel for resistance.
As you try investigating the pump, jack up the front end and move the wheels right and left lock to lock with engine off and feel for resistance.
Re: power steering loss power
ok, i will try tomorrow..thanks
Re: power steering loss power
the problem is today the power steering work good this afternoon, but sometimes he was stiffer like this morning. I was thiking that when it was coolder outside he's more stiff...
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Towncivilian
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Re: power steering loss power
For better cold performance, you can change the PSF to any full synthetic ATF (Valvoline Maxlife, Mobil1, etc). This will also lower the change interval for the power steering fluid, meaning you won't have to change it as often for preventative maintenance.
Re: power steering loss power
If your vehicle's PS pump is a vane pump as most are and you may have much contaminants as water vapor which becomes water when cold. That pump will turn as the drive belt moves the pulley and you have no idea of how hard that pump is moving. With frozen water or ice crystals; the vanes may be retracted and you are losing hydraulic pressure therefore you need arm-strong work at steering.
To test this out as suggested remove the existing fluid, then heat up that pump gently to help remove any water in all its forms, dump in new fluid, synthetics are a very good choice. Run that pump and hydraulic lines sealed, for 20 minutes going lock to lock to build up pressure and heat. Then replace that oil with another flush.
That should clean things up. If the pump is still good and then the relief valve holds you should be all right. But vane pumps are cheap, don't like to be abused and relief valves are....relief valves. If they can't take the pressure they pop off to relieve the hydraulic pressure back to tank.
A pressure gauge and tank set up is usually put to the task of checking the PS system. Remember you have a complete hydraulic system from pump, relief valve to actuator and pistons pushing mechanical things around to assist steering.
The hydraulic pressure can get too high because the mechanics is too stiff, too old, too worn. These systems work together. It's your car, both hydraulic and mechanical wear are to be examined, to come up with the correct diagnoses.
Short cuts like a mechanic in a can won't do in troubleshooting what appears to be an on going problem.
This is an extensive test for someone with little mechanical experience, it is time consuming because of the manner in which these systems are built, tight and close quarters, but draining the fluid can be a challenge with no drain plug.
I usually pick to easiest to access hydraulic joint and crack it, place a rag over it and let it leak out hydraulic fluid in as controlled a manner as your able, making sure not to let the reservoir run dry. Read up on your manual about the quantity of fluid and have 3x available to you.
You can capture a lot of the older fluid with a large drain bucket under that cracked and covered joint. The cover,a rag helps to direct the old ATF to the bucket.
If the pump is failing with the relief valve it means a new or rebuilt pump and then still requires a drain, flush, because vane pumps are fussy they like oils to be clean.
Good luck!
To test this out as suggested remove the existing fluid, then heat up that pump gently to help remove any water in all its forms, dump in new fluid, synthetics are a very good choice. Run that pump and hydraulic lines sealed, for 20 minutes going lock to lock to build up pressure and heat. Then replace that oil with another flush.
That should clean things up. If the pump is still good and then the relief valve holds you should be all right. But vane pumps are cheap, don't like to be abused and relief valves are....relief valves. If they can't take the pressure they pop off to relieve the hydraulic pressure back to tank.
A pressure gauge and tank set up is usually put to the task of checking the PS system. Remember you have a complete hydraulic system from pump, relief valve to actuator and pistons pushing mechanical things around to assist steering.
The hydraulic pressure can get too high because the mechanics is too stiff, too old, too worn. These systems work together. It's your car, both hydraulic and mechanical wear are to be examined, to come up with the correct diagnoses.
Short cuts like a mechanic in a can won't do in troubleshooting what appears to be an on going problem.
This is an extensive test for someone with little mechanical experience, it is time consuming because of the manner in which these systems are built, tight and close quarters, but draining the fluid can be a challenge with no drain plug.
I usually pick to easiest to access hydraulic joint and crack it, place a rag over it and let it leak out hydraulic fluid in as controlled a manner as your able, making sure not to let the reservoir run dry. Read up on your manual about the quantity of fluid and have 3x available to you.
You can capture a lot of the older fluid with a large drain bucket under that cracked and covered joint. The cover,a rag helps to direct the old ATF to the bucket.
If the pump is failing with the relief valve it means a new or rebuilt pump and then still requires a drain, flush, because vane pumps are fussy they like oils to be clean.
Good luck!
Re: power steering loss power
i flush all fluid, but it still stiff, my mechanics told me that it probably be the bearing on the steering line...i grease yesterday and it looks like to be ok...let see today!!