POwer Steering..in and out

[Ex-CA Driver]

OK when I am driving at low speeds, the power stering seems fine, however if I brake from 60 to 10 mph to make a turn or a U-turn, the Steering is very difficult. I have checked the hoses which I am sure needs replacing by now, but no leaks. The res is full, and there is no whining noises coming from the engine. My guess would be either the rack, which I had inspected and was told that all I am going to need are new boots, not a clue as to what they are. And then it was suggested to me that there is a processor or a chip that controls the power steering that may be going bad. Now when i bought the car, the gentleman was extremely far behind for maintenence. I drove th car all the way from Georgia to CA with very little power steering fluid (not my fault, went to the quicky lube for and oil change and they said the filled the fluids. Also on wet pavement the steerign is super and gravel as well. Usually when the tires are wet. Can any one Advise!!:help

[DenverQ]

I have kidna the same problem I have been deeling with. I think (from what i have read and stuff) Its eather the speed sensor that tells how much assist to give the steering is faulty or not sending the signal, therfore putting it in "safty mode" or the idler pullys are shot causing the pump not to spin enough. I am going to change all my pullys after Xmas and test the sensor as well Ill let you know what I find out

[Ex-CA Driver]

Thanks Denver Q for responding. I have bought and installed a new speed sensor. You'd know when your sensor goes bad because the speedo won't work, and the cruise control won't work either. I have to check into the pully thing. Do you know how much that's going to cost by any chance?

[DenverQ]

I got a quote from joe and its about 106 for all three pluss about 80 bucks in labor if you dont do it yourself.

Yeah i know about the speed sensor, but the power steering ecu might not be getting the signal

[Q45tech]

Use your service manual to read and compare the voltage vs rpm [speed vs voltage ....there is a nice graph] applied to the pressure regulating solenoid......after you have flushed the ps fluid/system and installed Mobil 1 ATF as PS fluid.......this ATF compensates for some wear and changes in used vs new [as designed pressures].

The pinion gear in the rack wears from use and the preload must be checked and set/reset periodically...........the rack and system in general is very sensative to fluid temperature and viscosity.Yoy get to a point where the pinion preload gets to stiff to remove the center play and interfers with return to center......then you need a NEW FACTORY RACK not a resealed remanned high mileage used rack!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Buying an aftermarket rebuilt rack only means it got new seals to stop the leaks it doesn't mean that the rack was set up properly or anyhere CLOSE to oem specs.

The rack was set for oem tires not aftermarket ones and the slip vs turning angle [feel at steering wheel] will vary depending on tire sidewall stiffness and compound hardness.

Section ST has 32 pages of test and proceedures that almost no shop follows as the 2-3 hours to get it right cuts into the rack replacement profit.

Most of the time what you described is a fluid/heat problem!