Power Steering Fluid Replacement - Procedure - HICAS

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juiceman
Posts: 351
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 10:03 am

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Can anyone enlighten me

I cannot find a procedure to drain the PS fluid from the system and replace.

I can go to a place and have a BG flush done for $70.00 but I am unsure that it will flush the HICAS system

Please, any help would be appreciated.


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Highway Q45
Posts: 219
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 8:29 am
Car: Auto-X, Porsche 944's, woodworking, GreaseSlinger

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Juiceman,I'm keeping an eye on this thread also. I asked the same question about 3 months ago with no response. I replaced a blown HP hose and wanted to do a complete flush. Correct me if I'm wrong but I would think the flush would need to be done with wheels up, in gear 2k rpm+, and turning the wheels as the flush proceeds. I don't think the HICAS solenoids circulate fluid until the HICAS is activated unless there is some kind of low pressure bypass loop. The same problem would apply to trying to bleed the system if the the two steering racks were just static drained and refilled. There really isn't a lot of info specific to this system. Hope someone with more info on HICAS maintenance is listening.

Q45tech
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Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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Just suck out and exchange the ATF [in PS] every day for a week.........when you have use 2-3-4 quarts of new ATF it should be 95% exchanged.

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Highway Q45
Posts: 219
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 8:29 am
Car: Auto-X, Porsche 944's, woodworking, GreaseSlinger

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Thanks DennisIn your experience is there ever an issue with debris or metallic filings that accumulate anywhere else in the PS system other than the reservoir screen? I agree that the 95% exchange is probably the best I'll see but wonder if there is a method for power flushing. The PO had used conventional PS fluid for top-off before I got the vehicle. I've tried to flush as much as I can with a pump/hose setup but still wonder about that last oz or two of old PS/ATF mix. The ATF and PS fluids are not compatible at all and I would hate to see any more seals bite the dust. Again thanks for your input.

Steve

maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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Snap-On has a PS flushing machine.

It works in two different configurations, depending on how it is connected. The standard flush is with both a feed tube and a vacuum tube placed into the PS reservoir after the filter screen is removed. While the wheels are first straight, then cranked full lock to either side, fluid is extracted then replaced by the machine with the wheels at each position. It takes about 4 qts. to completely flush and refill. Allow about one half hour time.

There is also a provison to connect to the high pressure line if the fluid is really brown or black. This takes about two hours of labor, and is correspondingly more expensive.

No HICAS on 1995 Q45, so not sure how to flush the fluid there.

Email me for pictures of the machine.

nisstech
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2003 5:22 pm
Car: Fish keeping

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In the process of restoring my 92q45t I first flushed the p/s with a BG flush tool. I found this to be a total waste of time! I uses about 6 qt of atf in and out of the system. The fluid in the tank was nice and clean but the rack itself still had dirty fluid in it. Next I removed the inlet hose to the cooler and return line from the cooler and used a trans cooler flush from napa, it comes in a can under pressure and a right sized hose that fits well into the cooler inlet hose. Used the about half a can(your needs may be more or less) , or till runs clean,also flushed the rest of the lines with the cooler flush also. With the lines to the rack removed move the wheels from right to left ,be carefull this can be a mess as the fluid in the rack come out! So much for the front rack ,cooler,lines and p/s pump. The fluid in the entire front system is now clean as new! Next moved to the super hicas, first put the system in hicas mode, Car in park or n, ing on start and turn wheel from right to left at least 20deg. 5 times or more while depressing the brake more than 5 time within 10sec. (sound like a lot but it's real easy) get a friend to hold the accl at 2k and move the wheels to the left or right about 10deg ,you can see the wheels turn. open the bleeder valves one at a time . Turn right to do right bleeder and left to do left bleeder. Keep doing this till the fluid runs clean and no air is in the system. Make shure you do not run out of fluid while doing this or you will have to bleed all the air out and that can take awhile. I put 2 bottles of BG p/s conditioner in the system , and that's it. I know this sounds like a lot of work but was well worth the effort you can realy tell the differance in the steering! P.S To make clear the "cooler" is nothing more than a metel line that runs between the condenser and the radiator, I have installed the p/s cooler from old nissan van(the one's we scraped in the 90's) good luck finding one.

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Highway Q45
Posts: 219
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 8:29 am
Car: Auto-X, Porsche 944's, woodworking, GreaseSlinger

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Nisstech,Great writeup on the procedure! Not to sound dense but where are the P/S cooler connections? Also is the BG conditioner compatible with ATF fluid type systems? Sounds like I'll look for some rack time at the local community college; doesn't sound all that fun with the car on jack stands. Is this info covered anywhere in a Nissan manual?; the Infiniti shop books certainly don't cover the HICAS flush procedure. Just in case, do you have any hints on how to bleed the rear HICAS loop if new components are installed? Again thanks for the clear response. It helps a lot.Steve


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