Power Steering Fluid Bubbling

[PyMets520]

I have a 93 Q45 with 82k miles. A few weeks ago I had some loss of power steering, only to find out that i was low on power steering fluid. I filled it back up and it seemed to solve the problem. Once in a while since then I have noticed that I temporarily have weak power steering and then it comes back but the fluid always seemed to be at the correct level. Today however I was checking the engine and while having the hood up I started the car and I noticed a noise coming from the lower belt on the power steering side of the engine. The noise was louder as the car warmed up and it sounded like a rubbing sound, maybe a bearing? As the car warmed up the noise seemed to subside. Just before I turned off the car I turned the wheel slightly to straighten the tires. As soon as I looked under the hood, I saw the power steering fluiding bullbing out of the power steering cap, and the cap was not loose. I opened the cap and saw that all the fluid was bubbling. The fluid was at the right level before i turned on the car. I have no idea what this means, Iv never seen this before.

What does the power steering bubbling mean? Could it be that the power steering pump is on its way out?andWould it have anything to do with the noise coming from the belt?

[elwesso]

you probably just need to get the air out of the system. Most likely when it was run low it got air in the system.

[PyMets520]

How would I go about getting the air out of the system?

[ScottJackson]

I don't know of any other way than just letting it run. After the car sits a little while, top off the fluid and repeat. Shouldn't be too difficult.

[Q_SHIP]

We just had this same issue on a 98 Q here at the lot. Ended up replacing the rack.

I hope it works out better for you than it did us. It was pricey.

[maxnix]

With the car running, turn the steering wheel lock to lock, and hold for about 15 seconds at each lock.

Better check your rack and determine where all that fluid is going.

Since your fluid was so low, and thus very stressed, I would consider a full mechanical fluid exchange if you do not replace the steering rack.

[PyMets520]

I don't know of any other way than just letting it run. After the car sits a little while, top off the fluid and repeat. Shouldn't be too difficult.

After I filled it up a few weeks ago, it doesnt seem to have lost any fluid since, then again this is the first time I ever saw the bubbling of the power steering fluiding pouring out of the cap.

With the car running, turn the steering wheel lock to lock, and hold for about 15 seconds at each lock.

Better check your rack and determine where all that fluid is going.

Since your fluid was so low, and thus very stressed, I would consider a full mechanical fluid exchange if you do not replace the steering rack.

Wouldnt that cause a lot of stress on the system? If I do that what should I look for?and if the power steering fluid starts bubbling out of the power steering fluid cap what would that mean?

sorry for all the questions, I am not really familiar with power steering problem

[Q451990]

You definitely need to find the leak. I would clean everything up with engine degreaser so you have a fresh start.

Brian's advice on bleeding the system is correct. Typically I try to do it with the front wheels off the floor (jack up the front) to reduce stress on the system.

I would pay particular attention to the low pressure going to and from the reservoir. They tend to leak as they get old - although anything is fair game on a 14 year old car. At this point it's more about prior maintenence habits than age. I do a partial fluid exchange at each oil change with Mobil1 synthetic ATF.

Good luck!

Heath

[bullittandy]

[QUOTE=maxnix]With the car running, turn the steering wheel lock to lock, and hold for about 15 seconds at each lock.

QUOTE]

I hope you have expert advice that you should hold the wheel at full lock for 15 seconds, that sounds like a great way to destroy the rack.

[Q_SHIP]

Q451990, Mobile 1 ATF in power steering?

I know they ar both basicly hydrolic fluid but is it the same consitancy?

[elwesso]

Yep ATF In the PS system...

Its what the manual recommends.

[PyMets520]

The steering seems to come and go, but when the steering seems to be normal it starts to shakes when I do a slow turn.Today I tried to drive the car and the power steering was totally gone then when I started the car again the steering was partially back, but the steering wheel started to shake when I turned the wheel and the noise I hear from the lower belt on that side side seems to get louder when I turn the wheel.

The power steering fluid doesn't seem to be oozing out of the cap anymore, but I still notice a lot of little bubbles when I look at the power steering fluid after the car is running and the fluid level still seems to be normal, not low.

Are these the symptons of just a leak or could the rack or the pump need to be replaced?

[Q_SHIP]

Yep ATF In the PS system...

Its what the manual recommends.

Is the Y33 the same? Just checked the owners manual and it really was not clear.

[elwesso]

All Nissan PS use ATF that I'm aware of.

[maxnix]

With the car running, turn the steering wheel lock to lock, and hold for about 15 seconds at each lock.

I hope you have expert advice that you should hold the wheel at full lock for 15 seconds, that sounds like a great way to destroy the rack.

Standard practice during a powere steering fluid replacement, although without bubbles 5 -10 sec. should suffice each time at lock, repeated twice.

Personally, in his case, I would go for the low pressure hook up and do the fluid exchange first that way and get all what ever junk is in there out first.
Modified by maxnix at 7:24 AM 4/7/2007

[Ozzie]

Quite a while ago, my PS return line split.After I got it replaced, and topped up the fluid, I had similar problems.

All I did was jack the car up, start the engine, and turn the wheel from lock to lock a few times, sometimes slow, sometimes fast.

After a day of driving, the steering returned to normal, and haven't had a problem since.

If you have a leak, I suggest checking the PS return line (high pressure)See here......zerothread?id=158495

[PyMets520]

**UPDATE**I went to a mechanic today, and on the lift he showed me that the front right boot is ripped and can be slid back, and you can see fluid coming from the boot. Apparently its only leaking when I drive the car, since I never saw any fluid leaks in my driveway and the whining noise is from the air in the system due to the broken seal. I was told that I will have get the whole Rack and Pinion done, and he quoted me a price of $740(parts & labor) +tax.

I was reading on the forum about Lucas power steering fluid, and how it could stop leakage, and that boots are inexpensive and easy to replace. So I was wondering if it sounds like thats all I would need to do or would it be best to replace the whole Rack and Pinion?

If I should replace the Rack and Pinion how good is the price he gave me? and if its not a good price where could I look to for purchasing a new Rack and Pinion?

[maxnix]

Avoid Lucas like the plague.

Joe will quote a price for new Nissan and a rebuilt Meridian.

Look for some posts of member Irax who works for Meridian.

Best to replace tension rod bushings and upper links, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings, tires at the same time.

You will need an alignment.

[bullittandy]

**UPDATE**I went to a mechanic today, and on the lift he showed me that the front right boot is ripped and can be slid back, and you can see fluid coming from the boot. Apparently its only leaking when I drive the car, since I never saw any fluid leaks in my driveway and the whining noise is from the air in the system due to the broken seal. I was told that I will have get the whole Rack and Pinion done, and he quoted me a price of $740(parts & labor) +tax.

I was reading on the forum about Lucas power steering fluid, and how it could stop leakage, and that boots are inexpensive and easy to replace. So I was wondering if it sounds like thats all I would need to do or would it be best to replace the whole Rack and Pinion?

If I should replace the Rack and Pinion how good is the price he gave me? and if its not a good price where could I look to for purchasing a new Rack and Pinion?

If the seals are leaking then a stop-leak product is worth a shot. Its only a few bucks and you'll be able to report back if they work or not. The worst that will happen is that the leak will grow and the best is that it will shrink.When the other alternative is replacing an expensive part, no product shold be avoided-try them all.

The price sounds a bit high but I don't know the cost of a new rack (guessing maybe $250-$400) and replacing a rack is usually not that labor intensive thought haven't done it on a Q.

[Jesda]

Lucas "transmission fix" is great stuff for a quick bandaid, if for example you have a leaky rack or slightly leaky return line; its useless on leaky high pressure hose. Also, don't expect your power steering to feel and perform the same with Lucas in it. You eventually have to have it properly replaced, and all this does is delay the inevitable for 6-24 months.

[PyMets520]

I'm really grateful for all the replies. I think I'm going to end up replacing the rack. As for now I'm just trying to figure out whats a good price to get it done at a garage and/or how hard/expensive would it be to replace on my own if I was to buy the parts. I'm at college right now so the only time I would be able to work on the car is during the weekends. I'm still going to ask a few reputable garage's for prices, and hopefully get a better deal. If anyone could give me an idea of how much it should run or how hard of a job it is to do on your own I would really appreciate it, thanks.
Modified by PyMets520 at 1:28 PM 4/9/2007

[92qatlanta]

Dear PyMets520,

Just a suggestion:

When shopping quotes, have it itemized into parts and labor. Have them specify the exact parts (brand, new/rebuild). You may be able to procure the parts yourself at a more reasonable price than the price they will quote with their mark-up.

With the lowest labor quote in hand, return to the shop with the parts. Should a shop quote you a part price lower than you can procure, but has a higher labor quote, arrange to just buy the parts from them.

A little footwork, but I was a college student once, and money can be scarce. Any saved is drinkin' money!

JD