Power Steering Adj

[leprecaun96]

Anyone know if theres a quick way to adjust the turning force on the steering wheel (power steering adjustments) or should i just go to the gym a bit more...

[del82]

You mean the power steering assist? There is generally an adjustment on saginaw boxes, but since the rack uses a separate pump, the only adjustment you get is depth on the steering shaft gear in the rack, to adjust steering wheel play. I think the only other thing you can do is change the pump pulley out for a smaller one, but then that's premature wear on the pump.

All that aside, it shouldn't be hard to turn at all. If it is, the pump is probably just bad, or the belt's come off.

[Cone Junky]

There is an adjustment procedure, but the symptoms of it being off tend to be a shimmy. But worth a try anyway...

"SERVICE PROCEDURE:1. Road test vehicle to verify that the customer's complaint is steering wheel shimmy [slight rotational vibration of the steering wheel at approximately 55 mph] and that it occurs without braking. 2. Verify that the steering rack, rods, and joints are secure and the steering system is within specification. 3. Balance the front tires with an on-car balancer, if available; otherwise, use a calibrated off-car dynamic balancer. 4. Perform another road test of vehicle. If shimmy is not resolved, it will be necessary to adjust the steering rack friction. 5. Remove the steering rack adjusting screw. Clean the adjusting nut of any remaining locking sealant. Reassemble the lock nut to the adjusting screw with the lock nut backed off fully. 6. Replace the spring with P/N 48237-10V02. This is a direct replacement, original-equipment part. Be sure the spring washers remain in place, in the same orientation. 7. Coat the adjusting screw with Loctite 272 Threadlocker or equivalent and screw into the rack. Tighten the lock nut finger-tight. 8. Torque the adjusting screw to 43-52 inch-pounds. 9. Loosen the adjusting screw, then, lightly tighten by hand. NOTE:The actual torque value for this screw is 0.43 to 1.74 inch-pounds.

10. Move the rack through its full travel, left and right, several times. 11. Center the rack in the "straight-ahead" position. With road wheels off the ground, turn the steering wheel a half turn in each direction to find the maximum friction spot. Stop at the maximum friction spot. 12. Loosen the adjusting screw, then torque screw to 43-52 inch-pounds. 13. Loosen the adjusting screw approximately 40 degrees (just shy of 1/8 turn). 14. Prevent movement of the adjusting screw and torque the lock nut to 29-52 inch-pounds. 15. Test drive on a level road to verify that the steering wheel returns to center when the steering wheel is released from a turn (approximately 20 degrees). Also, verify that the steering shimmy was corrected by driving on the road surface where the incident was diagnosed. 16. If less pre-load is needed (to achieve steering wheel return-to-center after a turn)- based upon the results of the test drive detailed in Step 15, you may loosen the pre-load position of the adjusting screw, up to the 90 degree position. "

Pulled from TSB NTB93-066

[leprecaun96]

ok,so i guess i'll stock up on the weetabix.Thanks tho

[del82]

Dont have a 1/4 drive torque wrench?

That explanation of Code's is about as good as you'll ever get, and it beats a fitness regimen.

[leprecaun96]

Yeah just re-read it there, its not half as confusing the second time round. Thanks gents

[Vegascorbin]

Good info to have. Thanks.

Just want to point out that the Torque is in INCH POUNDS not foot pounds. Amazing how many people miss that.

[del82]

Good info to have. Thanks.

Just want to point out that the Torque is in INCH POUNDS not foot pounds. Amazing how many people miss that.

Yeah, but you'll only miss it once