Power Loss

[Khronik]

I had a bad idle, replaced the plugs and now the idle is good

She ran good for a day, and then started to have power loss around 2700-3000RPM and power would return. Put some Lucas fuel injector cleaner in at about half tank and filled up. (also had a full oil service about 100-200 miles ago)

Ran good for 1.5 days, got off work had my heat shields checked and the secondary exhaust lifters put on (had a rattle sound goin), drove ok for awhile and then power loss came back, had a fuel smell, and yesterday a faint rubber smell?

Heard a very faint rattle once sounds like its coming from the passenger side
Injectors need to be replaced? transmission goin out? timing belt needs replaced? any ideas?

btw shes only has about 60,500 miles

[evildky]

step 1 check for codes
step 2 ohm the injectors

[Khronik]

well check this out..

before replacing the plugs I had these codes:
o2 bank 1
misfire cylinder 4

NOW im getting these codes:
P0130 --------
Air Fuel Ratio (AF) sensor 1 bank 1 circuit
Probable cause
Open or short circuit condition
Poor electrical condition
Faulty AF 1 bank 1 sensor

P0300 --------
Random cyclinder misfire detected
Probably cause
Ignition system fault
Fuel system fault
Large vacuum leak
MAF sensor fault
AF/HO2S (Air-Fuel/Heated oxygen sensor) sensor fault

when i changed the cylinder 6 plug i took off the control arm, except for the bigger hose
i got the small hose back on but its not over the ring thats on the metal part but it feels secure

and like i said she will run fine one day and decide to have power loss another
where to begin?

[evildky]

you have codes present, you can't deal with drivability issues until you have no codes present

the a/f code is the O2 sensor, might be caused by a misfire on that bank

with the car at idle, unplug each cop one at a time and fine the one that does not cause the idle to drop or the car to die, swap taht cop and spark plug wiht a workign cylinder and see fi the problem moves, if so it'a a bad cop or spark plug, if the problem stays it's the ptu

if you clean up the misifre and the O2 code stays replace the O2

[Khronik]

So far I have had no power loss issues the past couple days, will see if this continues
thinking the fuel injector cleaner had to clean out some bads

the coil pack connectors have a small plastic piece that covers where the wires go into the connector, my cylinder 4 is missing that piece, i doubt it but do you think this could cause any issues?

this same connectors snap connection to the coil pack itself is broken, had to push down the one piece that you can still see with a screwdriver and fix a flat head in between the bottom where the connector sits on the coil pack to get it off, think this could cause any issues also? aka misfires

[evildky]

you have codes present, you can't deal with drivability issues until you have no codes present

the a/f code is the O2 sensor, might be caused by a misfire on that bank

with the car at idle, unplug each cop one at a time and fine the one that does not cause the idle to drop or the car to die, swap taht cop and spark plug wiht a workign cylinder and see fi the problem moves, if so it'a a bad cop or spark plug, if the problem stays it's the ptu

if you clean up the misifre and the O2 code stays replace the O2

[Khronik]

ive had no noticeable power loss like before where its sluggish between 2700-3000RPMs but sometimes the idle drops and comes back up a couple 100 rpm when i come to a stop light

going to get a new coil pack connectors for all cops since i cant pull off cylinder 4's with everything connected (like i said before the snap on the connector is broken) would it be best to cut and sodder the new wires if they send them or just pop out the wires from old connector and into new connector?

[es.biggs]

you should be able to pop the wires out of the old one...not cutting the wires is a better option than cutting them

[evildky]

the problem with de pinning and repinning is you use the same old corroded terminals, if your terminals look good and clean yes repinning si an options, if your pins are all corroded you might want to solder and heatshrink

[Khronik]

havent replaced the coilpack connector for cylinder 4 yet but i havent had the same power loss issues as before
dont notice any real power loss anymore but im sure the misfire is still there

my question is, if i clear the codes they will reappear if the issue is still there right?
never messed with codes before this computer on wheels, and was told dont clear the codes until problem is fixed
how the f@#$ are you supposed to know problem is fixed after replacing parts?

also getting a backfire when shifting gears, o2 sensor? and can a faulty o2 cause a misfire in a cylinder?
lack of catalytic converters cause this? meant to check to see if those are still on or not also but have worked 12 days straight so far hadnt had the time

[mikixd]

Clene the throttle body with some wd-40

[CrazedZ32Owner]

you have codes present, you can't deal with drivability issues until you have no codes present

the a/f code is the O2 sensor, might be caused by a misfire on that bank

with the car at idle, unplug each cop one at a time and fine the one that does not cause the idle to drop or the car to die, swap taht cop and spark plug wiht a workign cylinder and see fi the problem moves, if so it'a a bad cop or spark plug, if the problem stays it's the ptu

if you clean up the misifre and the O2 code stays replace the O2

what is a cop?? i know it may be a stupid question

[evildky]

COP = Coil On Plug

as for code clearing on the car, these are OBD1 unless you got a 96, once you fix the issue causing the code it goes away by itself, they do nto store codes, OBD2 is supposed to store the codes but often does not, if you have a code you address the probable causes and recheck for codes untill you have fixed the problem and the code goes away

[Khronik]

aight so after replacing the spark plugs i dont have a code for misfire cylinder 4, it is now a random misfire.... clean connectors?

still have the o2 sensor code can be caused by misfire on that side right? can a faulty o2 cause a misfire? guessing not........

now have a code for EGR malfunction as well, so again connectors? not sure what all is on the EGR or if it has connector.

whats the best way to clean the connectors?

[evildky]

the egr itself has no connector, but if you follow the vac hose form it it leads to a soleniod near the battery

as for cleaning, I use electric contact cleaner (you can buy it at any parts store or electronic's supply house) and a small brass brush, sometimes a pick or knife as well, I then add a touch of dielectric grease to slow any future corrosion