Power Goal

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
droopy_map
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 12:06 pm
Car: 1990 200sx

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Well to be honest, i'm looking to massacre ALL hondas especially the type R's (new and old), and keeping up with the EVO's. But as you may or may not know, the roads down here arent as long as those in America, so i need a good amount of torque, and let's say around......close to 300hp.

Therefore, once i again i'm looking to go big and reliable(very important that is); as a matter of fact i'm getting paid tomorrow and as mentioned before i plan to use the 450cc injectors, and as recommended by the forum upgrade piping to 3" from downpipe. The original turbo is leaking oil, so i'm either going to repair it or replace it with a AiResearch T04 turbo.

Anyway, think more or less i'll repair the turbo, because to install the other will cost too much funds, which i dont have right now. Let me know if that sounds okay so far...

Thanks


sdtouge
Posts: 983
Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 8:53 am
Car: 1990 240sx coupe

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you could probably get almost 300 hp from a t28 off a s15. just get the suppporting mods you were talking about and a tomie metal head gasket(dont remember if its bead or grommet) . standalone would be best for power but pricey and safc would be better for daily driving probably.

also get a z32 maf or getto rig yours.

good luck

redamnavit
Posts: 445
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2004 6:34 pm

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droopy_map wrote:let's say around......close to 300hp.

Therefore, once i again i'm looking to go big and reliable...

Anyway, think more or less i'll repair the turbo, because to install the other will cost too much funds, which i dont have right now. Let me know if that sounds okay so far...
Well, no. First, don't dump your money into a repair on a stock CA hair dryer that won't put you anywhere near where you want to be. Second, the 450cc injectors won't put you at 300. Third, if you're broke you may want to consider some slightly less ambitious plans until you have some cash stored away.
sdtouge wrote:standalone would be best for power but pricey and safc would be better for daily driving probably....

...also get a z32 maf or getto rig yours.
I fail to see how using an safc to screw with things on an engine so picky about its timing or ghetto-rigging anything on the engine fits droopy's goals of reliability. Or fits any successful build profile, for that matter.

Sit down, search this forum and wherever else you can garner information from, and lay out exactly how much power you really want to get yourself into. Total up the cost and the labor time for it. Add 20% to that. Get your stock car running reliably and perhaps by then you'll have the beginning's of a fund to pay for your plan.

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r34 gtr
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Car: 98 Nissan Frontier XE 4x4
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03 BMW 330i ZHP 6spd
89 Nissan 240SX base CA18DET
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well, just to let you know, when my car was finally running correctly and the air/fuel ratios werent completely out of whack i put a hurtin' on more than one evo 8 and numerous other cars i shouldnt have been able to beat. all this with 9-10 pounds of boost on the stock turbo, intake, exhaust and a chip. i walked my friend's 01 svt cobra by several carlengths from a roll in a race highly favoring the cobra.

if you want to crush all of them, just get yourself about 250 quick-spooling horsepower and some good suspension and a limited slip. dont forget that the 240sx is a very light little car and you can achieve a pretty wicked power to weight ratio without having to do too much.

i would try a s15 t28 turbo, some 550cc injectors, a fmic, metal head gasket, intake, exhaust, fuel pump, boost controller, fuel management, shocks, springs, some strut tower bars, sway bars and a limited slip. once youve got all that your car will be a freaking hoss. those other cars wont know what hit them.

- tim

droopy_map
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 12:06 pm
Car: 1990 200sx

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Thanks for required specs, everything mentioned sounds attainable apart from the Z32 maf, but i'll ask around for it. By the way redamnavit, i've read through this forum like a bible, because i dont want to get cursed at for asking the same questions over and over again. I guess it really does just boils downs to funds, and what we have here but i'm going to still get there soon.

What i'll do now is just keep you guys posted on the current project. I've gotten a SR20 T25 to use from my friend, have the 450cc injectors, and i've also decided to use the fmic that i had put down for some time now (it has 13cores and is wide from one head light to the next). That will be done within the next two or so days, starting from today.

Will let you know how it runs and how much boost we plan to put in under............

droopy_map
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 12:06 pm
Car: 1990 200sx

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Alright my peeps, know its been a while since i've given you guys any updates but i've been busy with school and thing.

Anyway, these are the current upgrades that are installed at the moment:1. SRT25 turbo2. Custom FMIC3. 550cc injectors (yeah i know i said 450cc before, but they were apparently bigger than we expected - i wont complain though :-))

As you can see didnt get to put on the 3" piping as yet, but it will be done this month hopefully. And also you will realize that there isnt any form of fuel management, which of course meant that i was burning extremely rich........so i OF COURSE will get a management very very soon (prob E-Manage)

Now i have four very important questions:1. I'm of the impression (also after some research on injectors), that the CA18DET comes will high impedance injectors. So what's going to happen if the 550's that i have in now are low impedance (we're going to test them soon, but please just advise). Some ppl are saying that either they get fried or the ECU gets fried. Is this true???

2. In regards to the burning rich, my friend has placed a resistor (11.2 kohms) in between the MAF signal wire and the ECU connection, so this has brought the a/f ratio to a respectable figure. Do you guys forsee anything wrong with doing this - because to be honest i'm tempted to pull down the ECU very soon b/c of a certain burning spell that i pick up sometimes.

3. Instead of using the raw resistor in the line, i've located that part in the FSM that shows me where the Dropping Resistor unit is. If this unit can be adjusted, how do i do so, and would it be just as effective?

4. Just realising now the usefullness of a bigger MAF sensor, so would the installation of a bigger one replace the need of using the resistors or adjusting the dropping resistor unit?

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biosehnsucht
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1. wrong, they are low impedence, there is a resistor pack that raises the impedence to match the driving circuits of the ECU.

2. That's crazy. it might work some of the time, but there's no telling what it's doing all of the time. Either get a piggyback, standalone, or a ROM tuned for your injectors (socket the ECU or solder it directly in)

3. that's the fuel injector dropping resistor, thats to let the ECU (built for high impedence driving) drive the low impedence injectors. No, you can't and don't want to adjust it.

4. No, not as such. Now you'd be changing two things, and different MAFs aren't necessarily linear in respect to size change. You'd still need standalone, piggyback, or ROM tune.

fraz
Posts: 93
Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 6:56 pm
Car: rb30det gts4
vh45 g130

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2. your most likley running low impedance injectors which will be drawing heaps more current than the stock ones and frying your ecu

RMiller
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 8:50 am
Car: BBQing

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There are MINES ecus on ebay pretty frequently, if you can get one for a decent price, that'd give you a better ignition curve. Then slap on an safc, z32 maf, might as well put on some 550's if you're choosing anyway, but dsm 450's work well and are CHEAP. Pass on the metal headgasket, dee has proven many times the stocker can handle well over 300 hp and 20+ psi.

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biosehnsucht
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there is no telling what any aftermarket tuned ECU is tuned for. could be bigger injectors, could be stock injectors, maybe higher fuel pressure, maybe different MAF.. so unless it is socketed and you plan to have someone burn you a custom ROM (therefore saving you the trouble of socketing it yourself) there's not any real point. You couldn't even properly use the SAFC or such without lots of guessing until you get it right or luck, since you wouldn't know what its set for

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biosehnsucht
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fraz wrote:your most likley running low impedance injectors which will be drawing heaps more current than the stock ones and frying your ecu
stock injectors ARE low impedence, hence the dropping resistors that increase impedence so the ECU *doesn't* fry itself.

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c-rad
Posts: 2584
Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2004 5:10 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX w/CA18DET
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RMiller wrote: Pass on the metal headgasket, dee has proven many times the stocker can handle well over 300 hp and 20+ psi.
Then I would at least include some ARP head studs to prevent stretching and blowing the gasket.

droopy_map
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 12:06 pm
Car: 1990 200sx

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That's right, i finally reached page 247 in the FSM and realised that the stock injectors are LOW IMPEDANCE ( 2 - 3 ohm).
biosehnsucht wrote:
2. That's crazy. it might work some of the time, but there's no telling what it's doing all of the time. Either get a piggyback, standalone, or a ROM tuned for your injectors (socket the ECU or solder it directly in)
But think of it like this, if you put a bigger MAF sensor on the car, it will run leaner at every RPM because the same air that passes over the sensor will be read as less air. Therefore, the computer will provide less gas not knowing that the air volume is larger that it seems - so the car runs lean. We've even seen evidence of this via the A/F ratio gauge as we have already placed a 33k, 20k, 14K, 11kohm resistors and seen it richen progessively.

Thanks for your response again. We're going to do some more research and will soon buy a piggyback, so i'll keep you guys posted.

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iliketocrash
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Joined: Sat May 31, 2003 5:58 am

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the resistor thing really isn't safe. you have have to use high precision pieces that are extremely durable. if you're using your standard resistors that you can buy from radioshack then good luck. they don't take high heat situations all too well. besides, you're better off using a potentiometer as opposed to just a normal resisitor. hope that shed a little light on the resistor thing. just be careful

RMiller
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 8:50 am
Car: BBQing

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droopy_map wrote:That's right, i finally reached page 247 in the FSM and realised that the stock injectors are LOW IMPEDANCE ( 2 - 3 ohm).

But think of it like this, if you put a bigger MAF sensor on the car, it will run leaner at every RPM because the same air that passes over the sensor will be read as less air. Therefore, the computer will provide less gas not knowing that the air volume is larger that it seems - so the car runs lean. We've even seen evidence of this via the A/F ratio gauge as we have already placed a 33k, 20k, 14K, 11kohm resistors and seen it richen progessively.

Thanks for your response again. We're going to do some more research and will soon buy a piggyback, so i'll keep you guys posted.
Do you want an ecu tuned for z32 maf, 440's, better ignition curve, and 7400 rpm limit? I'm selling one. E-mail me at [email protected].

droopy_map
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 12:06 pm
Car: 1990 200sx

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E-mail sent. Check ASAP


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