power fc settings??

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shanemck
Posts: 38
Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:15 am
Car: 180sx, gt starlet, ae86f20c

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I bought this power fc d-jettro for my 180sx, Model No. SR20T4-D, Ver5-01a an on my orignal ecu has a red lable J4 (23710 60F06)I plugged the ecu in hooked up the 2sensors an the motor won't start an everything is set to 0 in the settings. Does the fc not come with basic settings?


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shanemck
Posts: 38
Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:15 am
Car: 180sx, gt starlet, ae86f20c

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Anyone..., want to make sure this is the rite one before i bring it to get tuned.

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SpeedRacer1
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Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 7:44 pm
Car: 1990 240SX, G35

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Download the Power FC manual. The engine has to self learn the car, takes about 30 min and there are individual steps involved.

If its just not starting because of some installation error then go back over all the obvious stuff, wiring, dying battery, etc.

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shanemck
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:15 am
Car: 180sx, gt starlet, ae86f20c

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ok i'll try that tanx.

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redsx13
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:32 am
Car: 93 240sx 03 350z

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shanemck wrote:I bought this power fc d-jettro for my 180sx, Model No. SR20T4-D, Ver5-01a an on my orignal ecu has a red lable J4 (23710 60F06)I plugged the ecu in hooked up the 2sensors an the motor won't start an everything is set to 0 in the settings. Does the fc not come with basic settings?
it should start rite up.

what is your setup?

I am running cams, s14 turbo, 480 injectors and it started up fine for me w/o a tune.

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shanemck
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:15 am
Car: 180sx, gt starlet, ae86f20c

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Standard T25 for now Hks fmic, hks boost controller, full hks exhaust, unknown injectors an pump. I will be upgrading turbo, injectors etc. in a couple of months jus want to make sure the ecu works rite first. Yeah i thought it should start straight up an then leave it running for awhile.

When i turn ign. on an do a sensor chech everthing seem's fine apart from all the settings are at 0?

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redsx13
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Car: 93 240sx 03 350z

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shanemck wrote:Standard T25 for now Hks fmic, hks boost controller, full hks exhaust, unknown injectors an pump. I will be upgrading turbo, injectors etc. in a couple of months jus want to make sure the ecu works rite first. Yeah i thought it should start straight up an then leave it running for awhile.

When i turn ign. on an do a sensor chech everthing seem's fine apart from all the settings are at 0?
it should run fine. did it run with the stock ecu? do you have the stock injectors?how do you know yours are aftermarket? there is no benefit to running aftermarket injectors on a stock motor.

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rc1honda
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Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:25 am
Car: 1992 240 sx
2007 BMW 335xi
2008 Honda CBR1000RR
Location: Chicago burbs

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Make sure you have the boost controler off form the PFC. The symbol to turn it off looks like a plus sign in the ETC menu. Then you start the car and let it idle for about 30 minutes. After the first 10 minutes you tuirn on the AC and let it run full blast for another 10 minutes. Then after that you turn on the defroster full balst and let it run for another 10 minutes. Then shut the car off and you reaady to go. Also remeber to change the injector difference in each cyclinder and the lag time. If your running bigger injectors. I think it's old injector/new injector *100. So if you had 550 cc on a SR motor, then it would be 370/550*100 so you input 67% into each cyclinder. Also you have to adjust for the lag time (latency time) for each cyclinder i think it's new latency-old latency. So say the new lag time is .85 then it would be .85-.55=0.3. Then you input this in for each cyclinder and you should be good to go. But the biggest thing is to run the learn cycle, and also make sure you turn the boost controller off. Go to the ETC menu highlight boost controller and make it Japanese symbol of a plus(+) sign to turn it off.

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ANVIL
Posts: 1133
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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rc1honda wrote:Make sure you have the boost controler off form the PFC. The symbol to turn it off looks like a plus sign in the ETC menu. Then you start the car and let it idle for about 30 minutes. After the first 10 minutes you tuirn on the AC and let it run full blast for another 10 minutes. Then after that you turn on the defroster full balst and let it run for another 10 minutes. Then shut the car off and you reaady to go. Also remeber to change the injector difference in each cyclinder and the lag time. If your running bigger injectors. I think it's old injector/new injector *100. So if you had 550 cc on a SR motor, then it would be 370/550*100 so you input 67% into each cyclinder. Also you have to adjust for the lag time (latency time) for each cyclinder i think it's new latency-old latency. So say the new lag time is .85 then it would be .85-.55=0.3. Then you input this in for each cyclinder and you should be good to go. But the biggest thing is to run the learn cycle, and also make sure you turn the boost controller off. Go to the ETC menu highlight boost controller and make it Japanese symbol of a plus(+) sign to turn it off.
can you run me through this in the hand commander for setting up the injectors? im trying to do this with my rb and im not sure how. i know stock injectors are 370, i upgraded to 650 and the only latency info i have is:

16v - 1.07214v - 1.19212v - 1.42010v - 1.88v - 2.626v - 5.88

i have no idea where to input the info...

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ANVIL
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Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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i also switched to a z32 maf, i change that in the intake setting right? to the vg30 option?
Modified by ANVIL at 10:46 PM 3/31/2009

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rc1honda
Posts: 585
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:25 am
Car: 1992 240 sx
2007 BMW 335xi
2008 Honda CBR1000RR
Location: Chicago burbs

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Im not really sure about your latency times. It should be one time in milliseconds. To correct the injectors you go to the setting menu, then go down to INJ. You should see this

Cyclinder 1 100% .00MSCyclinder 2 1005 .00MS And so on for the 6 cyclinders

So in your case it's 370/650 * 100=56.9 Now what you do is go over to cyclider 1 and press down until you see this

Cyclinder 1 57% .00msCyclider 2 57% .00ms And so on until you have corrected for all 6 cyclinders. You definitley wanna try to find you lag or loatency time though. One thing though is that you might not be able to get that info. I have bought a set of MSD/Delphi 75lbs injectors and after calling not only bosch and MSD and the actually manufacturer of the injector i get a call from a regional VP telling me that the latency time is a propietary information and is protected. Meaning i need a friggin court order to get it lol. So if i were you go with DeatchW or RC engineering.

Here is a link that you will want to bookmark cuz it actually pertains more to the RB then the SR. But it helped me out a lot.http://paulr33.skylinesaustral...q.htm

Modified by rc1honda at 6:51 AM 4/1/2009And yes your right it's the 80mm VG30 air meter. But you're running MAP sensor so it shouldn't matter.
Modified by rc1honda at 6:53 AM 4/1/2009

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Drop_Top240
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:54 pm
Car: 89 240sx hatch (race) 93 240sx vert sohc/mani swap

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can anyone tell me what pins you all wired your iat sensor to?

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0wn3r
Posts: 1669
Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 7:26 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan 240sx SE track car (SR20DET, caged)

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since i was searching to pick one of these up, i came across some info at 240sxmotoring that i randomly feel like adding in here as well

http://www.240sxmotoring.com/powerfctechfaq.html

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redsx13
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:32 am
Car: 93 240sx 03 350z

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Drop_Top240 wrote:can anyone tell me what pins you all wired your iat sensor to?
email me at [email protected] if you still need help, i dont want to take the time to explain it if you dont need it n e more.

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ArmadaJspec
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Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:50 am
Car: ECR33 Skyline Type-M
Location: Lexingotn, SC

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Drop_Top240 wrote:can anyone tell me what pins you all wired your iat sensor to?
Intake Temp Sensor looms to MAF Wires


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