Power door locks dont work

[Sidewayzzz]

Okay, i have an s13 se coupe and since I bought it nearly a year ago the power door locks haven't worked ... a friend said the acuators were locked up when we were replacing the door locks and I just took his word for it.

Well I ... got some from the junkyard out of another SE and put them in, and it's still not working.

I used some alligator clips to give pos/neg to the acuator and it moves the bar, they are obviously not locked up.

If I put them in, and connect them to the door latch...when i lock the door from the outside/inside it should lock the pass, and at the same token if i unlock from the outside/inside it should do the same, correct?

What other integral parts are there to the system, and if you could give me a quick rundown on how to test those, or where to find it in the service manual (i am missing one pdf file ... and the FSM's have been taken down..so its kind of hard to find, if you explain it..i'd appreciate it.)

Any help is appreciated.

[Pogi240]

Okay, i have an s13 se coupe and since I bought it nearly a year ago the power door locks haven't worked ... a friend said the acuators were locked up when we were replacing the door locks and I just took his word for it.

Well I ... got some from the junkyard out of another SE and put them in, and it's still not working.

I used some alligator clips to give pos/neg to the acuator and it moves the bar, they are obviously not locked up.

If I put them in, and connect them to the door latch...when i lock the door from the outside/inside it should lock the pass, and at the same token if i unlock from the outside/inside it should do the same, correct?

What other integral parts are there to the system, and if you could give me a quick rundown on how to test those, or where to find it in the service manual (i am missing one pdf file ... and the FSM's have been taken down..so its kind of hard to find, if you explain it..i'd appreciate it.)

Any help is appreciated.

I DONT think it works that way. the unlocking and locking of the doors.

from all of the 80's cars ive owned. none of them locked and unlocked like that, the only ones that did are 92+ my 92 talon locked like that kinda..... my sisters Accord does it, and my dads 2006 ram does it, 1996 Pontiac van does it.

I dont think our old cars do.

[vancouverbc]

here is another source for fsm. available on rotating basis.

http://carfiche.com/manuals020/cars/

my 1991 does not have actuator on driver door. the passenger side has one. I put bought an actuator and installed on driver door to remote control them.

[Broadfield]

There is a door lock timer module in the passenger kick by the ECU. This controls the actuators. Whether that is the culprit I don't know, but it is a start. Old Nissans use an "F" (one wire) locking system. There is a orange/black wire that goes into that module. If you cut that wire it will lock the doors. If you apply ground to that wire it will unlock the doors. I would try that first.

Toby

[Sidewayzzz]

Well I tested it the way you described and even with that wire cut...it does nothing...

So acuators are good, that unit may be good, but somehow its not currently recieving voltage then...

Is there a relay/fuse/fusable link/aklsdlkashd something?

Anyone able to tell me where, how to locate ... pics would be awesome

thanks for the help so far guys, i'm almost there!!! :P

[phuphyter]

I'm having the same problem with my doors. '91 SE

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Malac0da13]

when i like my drivers side door i can hear the passanged try and lock but it doesnt do anything...think somthing jus broke inside? i havent had the time to take the door apart nor does it bother me that much jus curious as to what it it?

[S0lid_Snake]

heres my suggestion, get out a multimeter and start checking for continuity and voltage in the wires. if there is voltage to the locks, then the actuators are likely bad, if there isnt then there is a wire loose/broken somewhere, or another part of the system upstream is broken

[Broadfield]

Well I tested it the way you described and even with that wire cut...it does nothing...

So acuators are good, that unit may be good, but somehow its not currently recieving voltage then...

Is there a relay/fuse/fusable link/aklsdlkashd something?

Anyone able to tell me where, how to locate ... pics would be awesome

thanks for the help so far guys, i'm almost there!!! :P

All right, it's time to get serious!

At the door lock timer module:

White/red = 12v+ ConstantBlack = GroundLt. Green and Lt. Green/Black = Door lock motor wiresOrange/Black = Plunger signal from Drivers doorOrange/Blue = Plunger Signal from passenger door

Test for power and ground first. If there is no power on the white/red then check for fuses. If all fuses check good then cut the white/red and run a new FUSED 12v+ constant lead to the module.

If it does have power or doesn't work after you apply new power then get back to me!

Toby

[Sidewayzzz]

Here's the kicker, white/red + ground on a voltmeter nets 12.9ish volts constant ...

It's getting voltage ...

Can i jumper some wires on the connections with a wire and see if it locks/unlocks the doors?

Is there a way to test the module itself...maybe with resistance or continuity?

If it comes down to it, im gonna buy a switch and wire it up myself .. lol

Would I ground or give positive to ...Lt. Green and Lt. Green/Black = Door lock motor wiresOrange/Black = Plunger signal from Drivers doorOrange/Blue = Plunger Signal from passenger doorthese?

How would you jumper the wires on the door lock timer harness connector to test the locking system?

How would you test the door lock timer module?

[Broadfield]

You can test the motors by applying 12v+ and ground to the Lt. Green and Lt. Green/Black. Basically touch 12v to one wire and ground to the other. This will either lock or unlock the door. If you flip the wires it will do the opposite lock/unlock function. So you can unplug the module and jump wires in the end of the plug. Use the big black wire for your ground. Just jump a wire from black to lets say Lt. Green/Black. Then with another wire put it in the White/Red. Quickly tap the live end of that wire to the Lt. Green. It should either lock it or unlock it. Then do the opposite. Jump your ground wire from black to the Lt. Green, then White/Red tap quickly to the Lt. Green Black. This should do the opposite of you first test. Let me know what you find!

Toby

[Sidewayzzz]

So myself and a friend decided to do a little innovation, i took a switch that acts just like a regular door lock/unlock switch and hooked 12v and neg to one side, and neg and 12v to the other, and ran a wire from the harness connectors green and green black wires to the switch....

Guess what ... it works, my doors lock and unlock with the switch.

That does NOT mean the door lock timer is bad though, does it .. ?

It could be 3 things .. and I think I know how to test them, let me know what you think Broadfield.

I need to test the plunger (as you called them) wires ... by touching one end of the connector to a voltmeter, and touch the other end to the other end of the wire to check continuity...after that i touch one side to ground to ensure its not shorting out..do that to all 4 wires on the plunger circuit.

I need to test the door lock timer module somehow, or do everything I can to make it the problem by process of elimination.

I need to test the plungers in the acuator itself to make sure that when the rod moves, the acuator KNOWS the rod moves ... is there a way to test this?

Those 3 things will let me know what to do .. otherwise, i'm going to a junkyard and stealing two power door lock switches out of a car and rigging them to work in the s13 somehow on the door panels.

Thanks for all your help (it works sort of ... yay!)

[nismo604]

I have an S-13 and the problem with my passenger power door lock is that my door unlocks just fine but doesn't want to lock, I have to do it manually. could this be a bad actuator?, been considering just using an aftermarket actuator similar to the one in my driverside door.
Modified by nismo604 at 7:25 AM 11/3/2006

[Sidewayzzz]

So if i jumper the wires together (door lock motor and pos + neg) they lock and unlock.

Does that mean that the door lock timer module is bad or do I need to test something else, such as the plunger wires ... etc?

[Broadfield]

Well, you can test each side by the method I described ealier. The plunger wires are Orange/black for drivers side and Orange/blue for passenger side. If you cut one of those wires it will lock its respective side. If you reconnect the wire then apply ground to it, it will unlock. So you can test each side seperate with this method. The module will have to be plugged in of course. You should be able to jump ground on the back side of the plug. If this test works then I would inspect the actuator to make sure all of the plugs are plugged into it. I would then try this test at the actuator. That way you can eliminate a broken wire in the door boot etc. Get back to me! I also gave you my phone # in that email if you would rather chat via telephone. You can also use a probe or multimeter and test for a ground pulse at the module on said wires when you unlock the doors via the plungers.

Toby

[Sidewayzzz]

I went t the junkyard again, I found a 6 plug door lock timer at an earlier visit only to find out between 89-90 they used a 6 plug harness, and from 91-94 they used a 8 plug (6 wires tho ... why the extra 2 blank holes?) so this time i clipped the harness connector.

Got it home, cut the wires and connected them, plugged everything in and guess what ... it works completely ... SORT OF

As long as i only unlock it, works fine (from either side), when i lock it, unless i hold the driver side lock down for a second and let the timer 'pulse' for a second, it goes crazy and unlocks/locks/unlocks/locks extremely fast and doesn't stop til you hold the lock to the unlock position. Even if the passenger holds their lock in the lock position while its trying to go crazy, nothing...only the driver side...so it has to be a rod issue on the driver side door.

Basically, it works as long as only the driver locks the door and holds it in the lock position for a second before releasing the lock.

So tomorrow I get to pull the door panels off and see whats up with the lock rods...