jmillheiser wrote:great car to learn how to drift in huh:icesangel
sounds fun.
yes it does seem like a lot more than 120hp.
themadscientist mentioned that a reliable 200hp is possible from the single cam. is this with the stock turbo or a larger turbo?
any idea as to how much boost that T2 could take?
A buddy of mine back in the day had one with a FMIC, subinjectors and SR20 redtop turbo that could sting S13 CA18DETs about half the time. I would go easy on that lil' turbo, leave it alone for now. If I had this car I would do this;
Rebuilt motor right? how long ago, couple of months? If it's a year or less you don't need to worry about the timing belt. Do a full tune up; plugs, cap and rotor, fuel filter, clean the throttle body and turbo pipes, set the timing and idle speed to spec and replace the O2 sensor.
Get a turbo timer and a boost gauge, you can now let your turbo cool down for longevity and monitor boost pressure.
Get the air moving; get a free-flowing exhuast, This is an old car so your selection is limited, you want at least 60mm pipe but get as big as you can find. Get a free flowing air filter, I recommend HKS or Blitz but any quality unit by K&N or other top-shelf company would double the flow of the stock unit.
You are going to notice a big kick in the pants now, likely about 20hp but don't go nuts and crank up the boost, you have to worry about fuel and charge temperature.
You will need to get an intercooler, the OE Starion/Conquest one would be perfect. It flows great is pretty efficient and is not too big so you won't lose a ton of response. For the SOHC @ 200hp I would suggest the shortest run of intercooler piping you can and use 50mm piping. A blow off valve should be included in that piping best mounted after the intercooler.
I don't expect this will give you a big jump in power by itself but it will allow you to run more initial timing and possibly increase the boost if the fuel will support it.
If you want to go further I would strongly advise purchasing a quality Air/Fuel meter and fuel pressure gauge, Greddy makes fantastic ones and those are the ones that rest on my dash, they have never let me down.
Next get a boost controller. You don't need the Bill gates electric light show GPS anti aircraft interceptor phaser model. High dollar boost controllers have their place. If you want one, get one but a manual knob type works just fine.
Monitor your fuel pressure and check that it is where it should be and watch your A/F meter. The stock computer is going to want to keep it at around 14.5:1 for clean emissions, that doesn't help you and could burn a piston. Normally I would say "slap on a SAFC fuel controller on it" but the car is to old, the computer won't work with it. So you are going to have to raise the fuel flow manually with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. The problem with that is if you set it to give you a nice 12.7:1 under full boost at idle it might be way to rich and foul out your plugs in normal driving. Try and get it to see as close to 12.7:1 under boost and no richer than 14:1 at a low speed cruise.
If you start to see the mix go lean up top but the fuel pressure is good you have maxed out the injectors, if it leans out and fuel pressure drops to you have maxed out your fuel pump. If everything looks good you can start dialing in some more boost. I have no idea what the stock boost was on this car, it should be in a manual or wait until you have a boost gauge in to find out. I would think an old unitercooled Nissan like this would be around 7-9lbs. I wouldn't raise it very high no more than 12lbs, these cars were Nissan's first foray into turbo cars and the turbos weren't stunningly efficient.
Be very careful, check everything twice and go slow. You can have lots of fun with this car. You are going to have to increase the injector, fuel pump and turbo size to see 200hp but you should reach 150hp on the OE stuff with simple purposeful mods like I have listed.