** Possible Mods to be done **

[Agamisou]

Well the car is a 95' 240sx Se...

It just has a catback...and also coming soon is a custom CAI....Im going to definitely keep this car for a REAL long time....No Rust S14 + Chicago = RARE in my book.

Before i go nuts and boost it like a maniac...i am going to do some HPDE events and such...so i was wondering what were the most cost effective mods to be done to the KA without having to drop serious money into it?I am considering porting and polishing the head...(courtesy of a friend of mine)..what else would i need to do to accomodate this mod? VAFC?

Is this a myth or not? Altima Intake cam + S13 exhaust cam = more hp? does anyone have any experience with this?

[wa-chiss]

Header, Exhaust (done), intake (you really only need a K&N drop-in filter), Tune-up, and fluid flushes (i.e. brake lines, clutch lines, transmission, diff, power steering, and the a/c too.)

Header: I've had the OBX for a while now and I like it a lot. Just a little minor fitment issue but nothing to get red faced about. If you can get your hands on a Hotshot header I'd go there but the OBX is close in 2nd. They both have 4-2-1 design. There's also the pacesetter header but that would be my last option. Flakey paint (by design), not to mention it's a 4-1 design. You'll gain low-end torque but no top end like the 4-2-1 does.

Exhaust: High flow cat (not neccessary untill you boost) but can still net gains. The rest you have.

Intake: Like I said, the N/A KA's don't gain much from a full intake but loud noise while reving and a little hissing noise at idle. I would just get a K&N drop-in filter, remove the resonator in the fender, and maybe (if you want) heat wrap the pipe going acrost the radiator.

Tune-up: Cap (perferably w/ copper contacts), rotor (again w/ copper), Plugs (copper cores are fine), wires (nothing too fancy), timing check/ adjustment, seafoam, and maybe a blaster coil (no real gain here but you'll have that "peice of mind") Copper is VERY good at conducting electricity.

Fluid flushes: You probably won't gain anything from here but it's more neccessary than you think. Brake fluid (for brakes and the clutch opperation) is "Hydroscopic" meaning it obsorbs moisture. That brown color you see when you take off the caps is a good (bad really) sign of old, dirty, contaminate rich fluid thats at the end of it's service life. Flush it out and put in new fluid. (DOT3). Power steering is important too. Especially if you decide to race the car. Old fluid has particles in it. Particles that could potenially leave you w/ out P.S.. A/C, well, if you want the creature comforts, you better make sure thier in good working order and condition. Old freon again is full of contaminates that put a drag on the compressor. The more drag the compressor sees while running, the more drag on the motor. You'll never notice it alone but all these things add up in the end. For the transmission and diff, I would drain the fluid, add fluid (cheapo stuff), drive the car for 10 miles or so, drain it again, and fill up w/ synthetic. I (and alot of people here) use Royal Purple, Red Line, and Lucas. All od witch are good products. You should also do the same for the engine oil. Synthetics are up to you. But I recomend them.

[nvrplzd240]

Most cost effective?

I'd say piece together a turbo kit. SR t25, stock sr sidemount.. etc..

[brianhilligoss]

Header, Exhaust (done), intake (you really only need a K&N drop-in filter), Tune-up, and fluid flushes (i.e. brake lines, clutch lines, transmission, diff, power steering, and the a/c too.)

Header: I've had the OBX for a while now and I like it a lot. Just a little minor fitment issue but nothing to get red faced about. If you can get your hands on a Hotshot header I'd go there but the OBX is close in 2nd. They both have 4-2-1 design. There's also the pacesetter header but that would be my last option. Flakey paint (by design), not to mention it's a 4-1 design. You'll gain low-end torque but no top end like the 4-2-1 does.

Exhaust: High flow cat (not neccessary untill you boost) but can still net gains. The rest you have.

Intake: Like I said, the N/A KA's don't gain much from a full intake but loud noise while reving and a little hissing noise at idle. I would just get a K&N drop-in filter, remove the resonator in the fender, and maybe (if you want) heat wrap the pipe going acrost the radiator.

Tune-up: Cap (perferably w/ copper contacts), rotor (again w/ copper), Plugs (copper cores are fine), wires (nothing too fancy), timing check/ adjustment, seafoam, and maybe a blaster coil (no real gain here but you'll have that "peice of mind") Copper is VERY good at conducting electricity.

Fluid flushes: You probably won't gain anything from here but it's more neccessary than you think. Brake fluid (for brakes and the clutch opperation) is "Hydroscopic" meaning it obsorbs moisture. That brown color you see when you take off the caps is a good (bad really) sign of old, dirty, contaminate rich fluid thats at the end of it's service life. Flush it out and put in new fluid. (DOT3). Power steering is important too. Especially if you decide to race the car. Old fluid has particles in it. Particles that could potenially leave you w/ out P.S.. A/C, well, if you want the creature comforts, you better make sure thier in good working order and condition. Old freon again is full of contaminates that put a drag on the compressor. The more drag the compressor sees while running, the more drag on the motor. You'll never notice it alone but all these things add up in the end. For the transmission and diff, I would drain the fluid, add fluid (cheapo stuff), drive the car for 10 miles or so, drain it again, and fill up w/ synthetic. I (and alot of people here) use Royal Purple, Red Line, and Lucas. All od witch are good products. You should also do the same for the engine oil. Synthetics are up to you. But I recomend them.

The only problem i have with what you say about header the 4-2-1 header make a peak gain of 3 whp and above 4500 actual gain of .5 to 1 whp the 4-1 headers are the 3500 rpm+ header with a peak gain of 10 whp at 5600 rpm picking a header you must look at how you will be driving the car i have dynoed alot of header and the best i have found for peak gain is the pacesetter which yes paint is crap but heck its a mild steel header and just paint it b4 you install it thats my 2 cents take it for what its worth too you

[eazye2000]

I vote Turbo!! lol

All of it sounds like viable power adders. Except the K&N filter..I'm not saying it's a bad idea, but I would get a dry cotton and gauze type filter, or a foam 'mushroom' type. The problem with the oiled filters, are our 'Hot Wire' style MAF sensors. The fine oil particulates can gather on the wires of the MAF and cause it to run crappy, or even mess it up.I don't know where I heard it from, but it rang a bell after I put one in my Sonoma that had a hotwire MAF... Evil, evil things..

I'm not putting it down, because it will help your engine breathe better. But just put that into consideration..