Porting my KA24de head (pics)

[Dammitboy]

Thought I show some pix of my new project motor.

Kb

Before the dremel got ahold of it...
Modified by Dammitboy at 7:56 PM 7/28/2005

[Dammitboy]

After.... AAhhh.

[Dammitboy]

Before being molested...

[Dammitboy]

After.

[Dammitboy]

Ugly exhaust...

[Dammitboy]

UUmmm... is it wrong when I get a stiffy when I look at this?

I plan on using a set of 1mm oversive Ferera Valves, Ferera springs & Tit retainers, along with a set of PDM cams. Topped with a powdercoated red valve cover.

Kb

[JimmyMethod]

You did that with a dremel? Wow, the little-spiny-battery-thingy that could... Did you dino it before and after?

[BadMojo]

Your Dremel-fu is indeed strong.

[tiger]

what attatchment did you use?

[need2drift]

yea what bit did you use?????

[iliketocrash]

i was always under the impression that removing the casting imperfections in the intake side is a bad thing because the imperfections actually promoted fuel atomization and prevent the fuel from puddling. i'm just saying what i heard i'm not knockin' your port job. it looks great, especially for a dremel. how many hours did that take you anyway?

[SlowBack]

Yeah, looks good, but you don't want it to be mirror smooth on the intake. I'm guessing he used a wire brush attachment.

[InsanityInc]

i was always under the impression that removing the casting imperfections in the intake side is a bad thing because the imperfections actually promoted fuel atomization and prevent the fuel from puddling. i'm just saying what i heard i'm not knockin' your port job. it looks great, especially for a dremel. how many hours did that take you anyway?

That's only applicable for carbureted engines. SFI engines won't have that problem due to where and how the fuel is injected.

[Dammitboy]

Thanks for the compliments, I used a carbide steel cutter & a aluminum dioxide grinding stone. Then polished the ports with 80 & 120 grit cartridge rolls from a standard abrasives porting kit.

Takes me about 4 hours for 1 cylinder.

You'd be suprised what a dremel can do, the non-cordless models kick ***.

And about the intake ports, your right partially, you want to remove the rough cast finish, removing obtruisions like valve guides & valve seat ridges to improve flow. However, leaving enough of a slighty abrasive "touch" finish to help keep fuel from puddling.

The exhaust & combustion chambers you can polish like a mirror to resist carbon build up.

[corn322]

if you want a super smooth mirror finnish for the exaust side, you could invest in some flapper wheels for the dremmel:

[SSS]

I suggest you lightly radius the sharp edge of the quench pads in the combustion chamber to eliminate potential hot spots.

[Dammitboy]

Good tip, thanks.

[ridin4life]

i

I suggest you lightly radius the sharp edge of the quench pads in the combustion chamber to eliminate potential hot spots.

im sorry but i dont know wat this is can some one enlighten me

[Dattebayo]

Why did you go and mess that head up like that?

Im serious, you did the intake all wrong! You are supposed to roughen the intake, not polish it. You get a better mix when you do it right like I told you.

That's only applicable for carbureted engines. SFI engines won't have that problem due to where and how the fuel is injected.

No. Not with the sharp angle that the KA intake side has. I had my head's intake side roughed up and the power was definately more reliable and even. I was recommended this by deviousKA a while back and he was right.
Modified by 2BN_S13 at 4:40 AM 9/27/2005

[tonynalli]

damn very very nice, almost makes me want to go and rip mine off and do one on my dohc.great job

[Dammitboy]

You get a better mix when you do it right like I told you.

Who are you? No seriously, I've never conversed with you before.

Why did you go and mess that head up like that?

Im serious, you did the intake all wrong! You are supposed to roughen the intake, not polish it.

You have a point there with a n/a set up, but this head is for turbo duty, so a rough intake does not concern me @ this point. Actually if you look alittle closer on the intake, it is a "touch" rougher then the exhaust or CC, when have been polished.

No. Not with the sharp angle that the KA intake side has. I had my head's intake side roughed up and the power was definately more reliable and even. I was recommended this by deviousKA a while back and he was right.

I have heard DeviousKA is the authority on these motors & would welcome his comments, & thanks for yours.

Kb

Modified by 2BN_S13 at 4:40 AM 9/27/2005

Modified by 2BN_S13 at 4:40 AM 9/27/2005

[Bigvinnie]

Good job. It isn't bad. You could of kept the intake on 80 grit for the intake. On the polish would you of happened to have 200grit to buff it out real nice? It still looks kinda scratchy, would you be concerned for hot spots? It's not bad though, good job.....

[Dattebayo]

lol @ dammitboy! I didnt mean like I had told you before, I meant in that post.I can see why it sounded weird to you.

Anyway, I assumed this forum was for N/A KA motors, not for KA-T as we have another forum for that...

Its okay. I dont think it would have that much affect on a turbo motor, possibly due to higher pressures and heat affecting the way the fuel mixes anyway. But you never know. Im glad to pass on the information.

[dkdeleon68]

And about the intake ports, your right partially, you want to remove the rough cast finish, removing obtruisions like valve guides & valve seat ridges to improve flow. However, leaving enough of a slighty abrasive "touch" finish to help keep fuel from puddling.

I thought that the intake is supposed to be gasket matched, not polished.

[Bigvinnie]

I thought that the intake is supposed to be gasket matched, not polished.

I think you meant to say gasket matched for PORTING, not for polish.The only time I see polishing is in the pentroof chamber, and exhaust ports.Always use a larger grit on intake.Intake on N/A needs turbulance an swirl one of the reasons why the grind used on intake is much grittier. It also matters that it has a rougher surface on intake because the injectors inject in the runners before the head. On direct injection it doesn't matter as much, and on direct injection it is noted that it is better to have less rough porting done to intake.Exhaust ports are to be polished to increase exhaust flow.I wrote a report on this and aced it, I got alot of my info from standard abrasives.http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.aspx

[DjPantsSpecR]

good post, although i think its been brough back from the dead

but good post Vinnie, that article is VERY helpful. i think i'll be doing most of this work, like radiusing the quench area and some bsic port/polish while my motor is apart. danke

[Sularus65]

You did a good job, but I really hope that this is for a turbo motor, not a N/A. Those ports are actually to big and too smooth. On a N/A, you have killed all your velocity which is what actually fills the cylinder in a N/A motor. It doesn't matter how much you flow if you have no velocity to help with charging the air into the cylinder. Just my .02.

Jason

[KA24Power]

good post, although i think its been brough back from the dead

but good post Vinnie, that article is VERY helpful. i think i'll be doing most of this work, like radiusing the quench area and some bsic port/polish while my motor is apart. danke

What is this Radiusing and quenching you all speak of? Please explain!

[DjPantsSpecR]

well like has already been discussed to an extent... the quench areas are on the head. there are the two flat spots on the head opposite each other, and they both have sharp corners.

i'm building a high compression motor, so it would be to my advantage to polish the combustion chamber and the exhaust. however, radiusing these quench area corners and any other sharp corner i can find can reduce the likelihood of hotspots caused by the large surface area small mass spots. this can help a little in reducing knock. which i will need for my current fuel system and high compression.

i would also like to do a port match, but i think that is further in my future, its better to get the high compression running with minimal head modifcations, but what ive said earlier a little bit of good free insurance.

[Bigvinnie]

i'm building a high compression motor, so it would be to my advantage to polish the combustion chamber and the exhaust. however, radiusing these quench area corners and any other sharp corner i can find can reduce the likelihood of hotspots caused by the large surface area small mass spots. this can help a little in reducing knock. which i will need for my current fuel system and high compression.

You failed to mention that radiusing the chamber also makes a larger flame front by pulling air and fuel mostly to the center of the chamber, thus slightly increasing combustion while also decreasing the potential for knock and ping. Radiusign can also cause the intake CFM to increase as well, which could also be beneficial for swirl. The reason why radiusing isn't always done is because it also shrinks combustion space (quench area) just as clover leaf welding does, and on streetable cars that aren't finely tuned it can increase HC's, if you are concerned with the enviornment as much as california tree huggers do.I have seriously been considering radiusing, and clover leafing as it is becoming almost time to rebuild my block which has run passed 150,000miles.Benefits to radiusing and clover leafing is that unlike a milled head that raises compression, it leaves much more room for valve lift. Where as a milled head will more than likely leave you with stock lift/duration. Clover leafing and radiusing can also run as high as a 13:1 CR. Which in this case is also much more beneficial than using raised dish pistons which also prevent any kind of dramatic valve lift.Radiusing and cloverleafing is the way to go for a KAde head where as if it was a hemispherical roof chamber it would be much more beneficial to get raised dish pistons, just as many heme engineers have done.