Popping/Clunking under car...

[wannabevip_g50]

Vehicle - 1994 Q45 w/o Active Suspension
Symptoms - Popping / Clunking underneath car when turning, reversing, hitting small road bumps, etc.

I figured the inner/outer tie rod ends were bad, which they were. After changing them out and aligning the car, the steering had a bit more control but the popping/clunking underneath the car was still there. While turning or hitting small road bumps, I can even feel the clunk underneath my feet/floorboard. My suspension mechanic determined the lower control arm ball joint was still good since there was no leak and they hardly had any play in them when he used the pryer to try and wiggle it. When I got the inner/outer tie rod ends and rubber boots changed, my mechanic and I noticed the two center bushings on the rack and pinion were torn up, possibly caused by some massive leak occurring directly on them. Can these two rack and pinion center bushings cause the pop/clunk underneath the driver/passenger floorboard when turning, etc.??? Also, all 4 Tokico shocks blew in 3 weeks of installation. Crazy.

Any ideas, help, suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[qship96]

I have a hard time believing all 4 shocks "blew" within 3 weeks, unless a gorilla installed them and scratched {more like gouged } each piston rod. Sounds like you need to seek a competent technician help to do any future "work" on the car.

[maxnix]

Poor installation. Yes, the bushings locate the rack so if they are shot through normal wear and tear, you have no hope at alignment nor stable steady state steering. How about the tension rod bearings?

You are being serviced by clowns.

[wannabevip_g50]

The Tokico shocks were not installed by my usual suspension mechanic. They were installed by an aftermarket tuning shop. On that note, I just went outside to check for any leakage coming from shocks and the two front are not leaking. It's the two rear Tokico shocks that blew. Can't shocks blow prematurely if other suspension components are bad? I mean, I hear bad things about Tokico anyway but because of the price, they were too good to pass up.

So Brian, based off what you said, I'm assuming the popping/clunking could be coming from the rack moving because the two center rack bushings are torn up. What would be the signs of a bad front lower control arm ball joint(s) if there's no visible wear and tear? Same noise and feeling through driver/passenger floorboard? Again, my USUAL suspension mechanic checked the lower control arm joints with a pryer today and they had no play in them. Tension rods are NEW so they're good.

[qship96]

If you have a competent tech looking at your suspension noises, HE should be telling YOU what the problem is!

If I told you how many miles are on my Tokiko blue shocks, and that they are still operating well, you would crap your pants.

[wannabevip_g50]

So you're telling me shocks can't blow prematurely (regardless if new) if all kinds of suspension bushings and joints are bad thus putting unusual pressure and movement on them? You probably changed all of your suspension components and keep it well maintained. If so, yes, I can see why your shocks have lasted so long.

Thanks for your "help."

[1996QShip]

On my 92 active G50. I had clunk similar to what you're describing. I replaced all the parts you've mentioned. And the clunk persisted. But when I replaced the stabizer bushing and torqued all the bolts properly; THAT'S when everything quietend up. Good luck. Some of this screws need some serious power

[Q451990]

So you're telling me shocks can't blow prematurely (regardless if new) if all kinds of suspension bushings and joints are bad thus putting unusual pressure and movement on them?

Thanks for your "help."

I think you're missing the point. The most likely reason for premature shock failure is incorrect installation techniques. Specifically someone gripping the rods that extend out of the shock with plyers, pitting the metal and causing the seals to no longer function because their mating surface is not smooth. There are actually warnings in the box from Tokico stating that this type of damage is possible and not covered by their warranty. Yes, it's possible that some other suspension malfunction caused it - but it would have to be a pretty bad one.

Your rack bushings could definitely cause all kinds of problems, including the popping you mention. If you're going to keep the car for several years, just replace all of the bushings at one time and enjoy the suspension as it was designed to function.

Heath

[kevindanielk]

I agree with 1996QShip about his sway bar link diagnosis. I had the same clunking noise under my Q for a while, until found a loose lower sway bar link bolt. I tightened it up and no more clunking ever since then, for the last 4 years.

[wannabevip_g50]

So you're telling me shocks can't blow prematurely (regardless if new) if all kinds of suspension bushings and joints are bad thus putting unusual pressure and movement on them?

Thanks for your "help."

I think you're missing the point. The most likely reason for premature shock failure is incorrect installation techniques. Specifically someone gripping the rods that extend out of the shock with plyers, pitting the metal and causing the seals to no longer function because their mating surface is not smooth. There are actually warnings in the box from Tokico stating that this type of damage is possible and not covered by their warranty. Yes, it's possible that some other suspension malfunction caused it - but it would have to be a pretty bad one.

Your rack bushings could definitely cause all kinds of problems, including the popping you mention. If you're going to keep the car for several years, just replace all of the bushings at one time and enjoy the suspension as it was designed to function.

Heath

I totally understand your point. I've installed shocks myself and personally watched this other mechanic install the rear ones as well. He never gripped the metal rod with any pliers, dinged or bent it. He was very careful so they had to have gone out for another reason. But my main concern is the popping/clunking I'm hearing.

I agree with 1996QShip about his sway bar link diagnosis. I had the same clunking noise under my Q for a while, until found a loose lower sway bar link bolt. I tightened it up and no more clunking ever since then, for the last 4 years.

I will take a look at that. Where are the sway bar links? I don't recall noticing them when I was under the car yesterday...or maybe I'm just blind.

[Infinitiguy19]

If I told you how many miles are on my Tokiko blue shocks, and that they are still operating well, you would crap your pants.

Let me guess 278,000+ miles? Jeez if so I know how many miles your car has better than I know my own birthday.

[qship96]

Couldnt be 278K unless the factory installed the Tokiko Blue model shocks!

[Infinitiguy19]

Still very impressive, You must write a book for us failures!

To the original poster a TSB I looked at says its the sway bar end links that are loose. Tighten them to the proper torque and check again.

[wannabevip_g50]

Still very impressive, You must write a book for us failures!

To the original poster a TSB I looked at says its the sway bar end links that are loose. Tighten them to the proper torque and check again.

Where are the front sway bar links located? I can't find them for some reason. LOL

[goody90q45]

The links are located at each end of the sway bar. Each has 4 rubber bushings on it.

Tighten the nuts top and bottom. No need to torque, just tighten until you run out of threads and the nuts bottom out.

[Q451990]

The end links are the small rods with a round cup and ball joint that connect the ends of the sway bar to the suspension on each wheel.

Heath

[kevindanielk]

And they, the sway bar links, bolt directly to the front lower control arms.