Poncam install questions

[kouki-gymkhana]

I'll be heading back down south in a couple of weeks to put my engine back together after my stillborn HG swap (Thanks to Speedlab in Miami for B-R-E-A-K-I-N-G my exhaust cam). My Poncams finally came in from Nengun and I have a few questions since the instructions are all in Japanese:

1) Anyone know where I can find an english translation of the instructions?

2) Is there any required preparation of the camshaft caps before I put the cams in since there are no bearing to change? One of my mechanic friends mentioned something about lineboring the caps but I don't quite know what this means.

3) Anyone have any specific recommendations to prevent breaking these cams during installation (obviously aside from following the instructions to the letter)?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!-kouki

[Carl H]

follow the instructions in the fsm for installing the cams and you should be good to go, use copious ammounts of good engine lube on the bearing journals when installing the cams.i installed my cams myself and followed the directions, had no problems what so ever.

[kjlindgr]

Even good shops break cams. Apexi USA has broken RB26 cams in the past. It happens...but a good shop will stand behind their mistake.

[themadscientist]

"lineboring" involves installing the caps without the cams and honing the holes through which the cams pass so they are all exactly on the same axix. DO NOT DO THIS! This is a pro enginebuilding step for engines that actually have cam bearings. The RB does not, the cams ride right against the machined surface of the head casting and caps so any honing will open up the clearances which is not good. The head is aluminum, the cams are not, you won't damage the cams.lineboring the mains for the crank can be done on the RB though as there are actually bearings in there and you are truing the saddles the bearings will sit in. This, combined with balancing the crank at the minimum and getting an aftermarket oil pump will bump up the RBs ability to handle high revs just like the solid lifter cams do.

[kjlindgr]

...getting an aftermarket oil pump will bump up the RBs ability to handle high revs just like the solid lifter cams do.

All aftermarket pumps will fail with enough revs. Dry sump.

[themadscientist]

You are not replacing the pump for flow reasons, well, not primarily for that reason. You are replacing it because the eccentric gear self destructs at high revs. Dry sump is unnecessary on a street car. If you have money like that, what the hell, of course do that too!

[kouki-gymkhana]

Thanks for the advice and explanation, madscientist. I really appreciate it! Maybe I'll do a write up once I get things going!?!

[themadscientist]

Happy to help.

[GTR Shop]

All aftermarket pumps will fail with enough revs. Dry sump.

WHAT A LOAD OF ****

I think there is a new magazine issue out this week for you to read...

[Carl H]

pumps fail on these motors due to mainly short oil pump snouts on the crank, collar or weld it and fit a revised pump and call it a day...

[kjlindgr]

WHAT A LOAD OF ...

You are in rare company if you think Tomei, JUN, HKS, Grex or others make GTR pumps that are bullet proof. Those that actually have experience with these pumps know better. But like they say, ignorance is bliss so I'm sure you're enjoying yourself.

I think there is a new magazine issue out this week for you to read...

Sorry, but I don't read any magazine I don't write for.

[Bluefire]

I'll be heading back down south in a couple of weeks to put my engine back together after my stillborn HG swap (Thanks to Speedlab in Miami for B-R-E-A-K-I-N-G my exhaust cam). My Poncams finally came in from Nengun and I have a few questions since the instructions are all in Japanese:

1) Anyone know where I can find an english translation of the instructions?

2) Is there any required preparation of the camshaft caps before I put the cams in since there are no bearing to change? One of my mechanic friends mentioned something about lineboring the caps but I don't quite know what this means.

3) Anyone have any specific recommendations to prevent breaking these cams during installation (obviously aside from following the instructions to the letter)?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!-kouki

Well back to the topic at hand... First things, make sure you use lots of lube. Take your time and don't rush it. Now for some more specifics... The cams are long and much easier to bend and snap than 4cyl cams, so you must go slowly and evenly in getting the cam fully seated.

1. rotate the cams to where they are supposed to be at tdc. (temporarily attach the cam gears so you can get an idea of the correct rotation.

2. start by getting the three middle caps to start threading.

3. Once the three middle caps have started to thread, begin tightening the rest of the caps down evenly following the fsm torque order(inside out) I also turn each bolt about 1-2 turns each just to be on the safe side.

4. Once the cam is completely seated pull the front intake and exhaust caps and put a little sealant where the crack is(prevents oil from getting into the timing belt area)

5. Finally torque cams down to factory spec.

Good luck and once again take your time

-Bluefire

[kouki-gymkhana]

Bluefire, thanks so much! I definitely plan on handling the install of the cams extremely carefully and I appreciate the tips on the install procedure, especially about using a little bit of sealant.

-kouki