iv'e been reading up on this in other forums, but i was wondering if i can get away with replacing my worn to **** tension rod bushings with some whiteline polyeurethane ones. the problem is that i read they can crack your control arm due to restricted movement or something along those lines- however i don't drift and the car is mainly a daily driver so i was wondering will i be able to get away with these without breaking my ****?
Also do you guys recommend i get a set with pillowball bushings, or are those overkill for what i will be using them for?
Modified by Assmunke at 6:31 AM 10/23/2004
Modified by Assmunke at 6:51 AM 10/23/2004
poly T/C bushings?
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Hijacker
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'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
never heard of a set of poly uro bushings breaking control arms. Last I remember metal is stronger than poly urothane, so the bushing should give first.
pillowball bearings are heim joints. and for a daily driver, they're way overkill. depending on the condition of the roads in your area, heim joint TC rods can really make your trip to the grocery store bumpy
pillowball bearings are heim joints. and for a daily driver, they're way overkill. depending on the condition of the roads in your area, heim joint TC rods can really make your trip to the grocery store bumpy
Re: (tenkawa_akito)
awesome, that points me in the right direction- thanks for the quick reply!
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TrunkMonkey
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Re: poly T/C bushings? (Assmunke)
i read through several threads on this subject, and i've come up with several conclusions as to why this happens...Assmunke wrote: iv'e been reading up on this in other forums, but i was wondering if i can get away with replacing my worn to **** tension rod bushings with some whiteline polyeurethane ones. the problem is that i read they can crack your control arm due to restricted movement or something along those lines- however i don't drift and the car is mainly a daily driver so i was wondering will i be able to get away with these without breaking my ****?
1. overtorqued tension rod bolts.
2. fatigued lower control arms.
3. bad installation. tension rods are supposed to be torqued down with the car on the ground with its full weight (all fluids full including a full tank of gas, spare tire, jack, tools, etc.). once you torque it down, it's not going to move. if you torque the tension rods with the car elevated, it's going to bind where it meets the lower control arm when you lower it.
4. lowering your car. i'm no suspension guru, but it seems to me that it loosening the tension rod bolts before you lower your car then retorque them at the new height would alleviate a lot of stress.
i ran whilteline poly tension rod bushings on my fastback for 2 years and i had no problems whatsoever.
-demetrius
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Axel Grungy
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TrunkMonkey
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Re: (Axel Grungy)
the energy suspension bushings don't twist. the whitelines twist just like the oems.Axel Grungy wrote:i dunno i dont like the idea of the poly bushings. if you look at your oem ones you notice that they twist somewaht. with the poly ones they wouldnt lol and that prolly puts tons of strain on the control arms.
-demetrius
Re: (demcj)
None of the plastic ones will twist like the rod needs to.demcj wrote:the energy suspension bushings don't twist. the whitelines twist just like the oems.
-demetrius
I had the polyurethane ones in mine and could feel the suspension binding, so I replaced them with the Nismo rubber bushings.
Re: poly T/C bushings? (demcj)
ahh... that makes perfect sense
this is why i will pay a pro to do all the suspension work
this is why i will pay a pro to do all the suspension work