Pointers on buying a Z32tt

[seagull369]

Hi everyone. Just signed up to the forum..

I'm a relative noob to the z32 world and have been toying with the idea of buying a z32 TT. I have a 93 Ford Probe GT currently, but have been yearning for something with a little more pep which also has rear wheel drive, I've loved the look of the 2seater Z32 for many years now and now that the price of one has finally dropped into my price range, I think I may be ready to take the plunge.

I was hoping someone out there could perhaps give me some direction as to typical mechanical problems that crop up on the z32 that I should look for. For example on the second gen Probes, the earlier years had distributor ignitor issues. Some second gen Mitshu Eclipses had crank walk problems . etc, etc .. I work on cars often, so I'm no slouch when it comes to inspecting a car, but I'd like to know specific areas I should be looking at when I'm test driving one or looking under the hood. Are some years more reliable than others? I'm looking to avoid cars that have the HICAS steering if I can help it, and any '96 models due to the OBDII.

I live in the rust belt, so if there happen to be spots on the z32 that accumulate corrosion more than others, I'd be most interested to know about them.

Many thanks (and greetings) in advance.

[Trimble Epic]

The first and most important thing to check is the timing belt. You'll want to know when and at what milage the timing belt was changed, and if it was performed by someone who knows to replace ALL the parts recommended during that 60k or 120k service. If the seller can't demonstrate with documentation that it was done right, then you must assume that it needs to be redone asap. The 120k kit goes for about 490 right now, if you can do it yourself. Factor that into the offer.

[seagull369]

I appreciate the reply and will make sure to ask about the timing belt change when looking,

Are any years more troublesome than others? Logic would dictate they got the bugs worked out in each successive model year, but just want to double check.

[DCaff300ZX]

Welcome to NICO!
One of the most important things to do is a self-check regarding just what kind of an experience you are looking for in a Z32...and by this I mean not "I want a fun fast car" and the like, but more like "I want an easy to own sports car" or "I want a cheap sports car" which you hinted at mentioning the Z is now in your price range. The Z32 is neither of those things- it may be less expensive than many to purchase, but is that way partially because it is hard to maintenance and costly compared to like vehicles.
This comes to play in the form of maintenance beyond the 120K mentioned above, such as servicing the injectors/connectors/harness, turbos (likely at some point) and associated plumbing/hoses, vacuum hoses and wiring connectors as well as many of the sensors and such the connectors are connected to. The car tends to heat bake it's wiring harness and connectors and many components, and often has oil leaks and boost leaks to deal with. This is just the tip of the iceberg- it's a 20+ year old twin turbo performance vehicle and finding reliable mechanics for it is difficult at best and expensive, and the parts are also on the upper end of costs not including the turbo-relate items, which definitely are spendy.
Bottom line is unless you find and buy a pristine '95 or '96 TT, you will have a lot of maintenance to do and/or plan for in the near future, and even with one of those two years, will want to be ready for those costs and also have access to a Nissan mechanic and/or learn a LOT yourself quickly if you are mechanically inclined.

Moving on, the best years to buy are 1994 and 1995, due to new style injectors/harness/fuel rail and a few other minor changes.
The 1993+ all have airbags but 1996 has less power due to no variable valve timing, but has all other upgrades.
Also, the 2+2 model has a number of different body and chassis parts due to it being slightly longer.
No real other reasons except the smaller 27mm brake calipers in the front of the '90 model to buy one year over another, there are several small differences to many of the year models but overall nothing major changed beyond what is noted above.

Other details that will make a difference are the less previous owners, the better- same as less miles the better (but more costly).
Also, look for an stock unmolested Z unless you are SURE of what you are getting (and how could you be, here asking questions?), and plan the necessary maintenance FIRST before and mods or other changes to the car.
DO NOT BUY AN ENGINE SWAPPED Z, PERIOD. In your case this most likely will NOT work out well for you.
Also, do not get one with an electric fan setup, be SURE it has the stock setup and is functioning correctly as cooling is often an issue with used Z's. Often a refreshed stock clutch fan with new belts/hoses is a part and parcel to a true full 120K service which includes the water pump.
Try to find a knowledgeable Z32 guy if possible also to help you look at any potential Z's, as owning one DEFINITELY makes you aware of what to look out for and where the problems are.

I'm sure there's more but these are probably the biggest things to be sure about before you purchase a Z32TT.

[seagull369]

I appreciate your comprehensive reply, DCaff..

I've worked on cars since I was a kid and over the years I've come fairly close in abilities to match what a typical repair shop can do. In order to spare you a laundry list of what I can do, I'll keep it short and say the main things I can't do relate to what machine & transmission shops deal with such as resurfacing cylinder heads or rebuilding auto transes. Dealing with turbos, admittedly, I have no experience in either.

The price range I mentioned is really just what I wanted to pay for a car of this type, not so much what I have the funds for. I'd be the 1st one to admit I'm a cheapskate, but I am willing to make some concessions for the right car. For the looks, performance and reliability reviews from people that have owned this car, I'd say I'm willing to make those concessions. I do realize frequency of maintenance becomes more of an issue with a car of this age/type and that the cost of parts aren't exactly bargain basement. By posting my question in the forum here I'm just trying to avoid picking up a lemon the best way I can, not so much find a car that will never need to be worked on.

Thanks for the tip on getting an unmolested Z... After perusing ads for several days, all I can say is that's easier said than done! =)

[seagull369]

Oh, I forgot to ask, by an engine swap did what did you mean an engine not originally intended to go in there, like an RB20?

[DCaff300ZX]

Oh, I forgot to ask, by an engine swap did what did you mean an engine not originally intended to go in there, like an RB20?

I really meant any engine that isn't a stock replacement engine, and avoid any JDM replacements as well as there are issues with the oil pan and pickup from those engines and they often aren't that great a deal anyway because the use pattern is unknown.
But this also would extend to an engine not meant for the car unless it was a properly-done swap from a reputable shop, complete with paperwork, etc. I have a mechanic who does RB25 and 26 swaps but they are VERY expensive due to the fact he cuts NO corners and it all requires a lot of custom parts, and servicing the vehicle then becomes far more difficult unless you keep that same mechanic.

[DCaff300ZX]

Oh, and see the current thread "story of my 300ZX" for what can happen if you don't do things right...