Pls help, Advice for buying clutch!

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cmurder342
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Car: 1990 240sx s13 hatchback
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I'm looking to buy a new clutch kit online for my 90 s13 stock sohc ka the clutch and stuff in it now is slippin and stuff like sh*t and just needs to be totally replaced and I've found some online like just oem replacements from exedy for like 125 but then again I've found stage 2 6puck clutch ceramic sprung racing disk on eBay for 170 and I don't wanna miss a good deal or get gipped with p.o.s. clutch so if ya could throw some knowledge or suggestions my way bout them id greatly appreciate it, thanks

-Clint


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cmurder342
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Car: 1990 240sx s13 hatchback
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bump

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PyR0NiAk
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Car: S13 SR W/ T2 GT3071R .86AR, JWT S4 Cams, 810cc Injectors,Z32 MAF, JWT tuned ECU 87mm 9:1 Compression CP pistons, Manley Rods
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I definitely recommend you at least go a little firmer than stock, but I would also advise staying away from ebay clutches... I, myself have an XTD (ebay brand), and it feels fine, but I haven't had the car to WOT yet, so I'm not sure about slippage. Try checking out SPEC clutches on enjukuracing.com

gumby74
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From experience, buy a stock replacement clutch, either an Exedy online or from the local parts store. It should not run you more than $120 and should be the complete clutch kit to include disc, pressure plate throwout/release bearing and a pilot bushing. Unless you are putting down more than stock numbers plus bolt-on's, a stock clutch will serve you well. Plus my clutch kit from Oriellies has a lifetime warranty which I have used to replace my clutch no less than 3 times to date.

Replace the flywheel with an F1 or XTR from ebay for another $180. The flywheel checks in at a bit over 12lbs. You will notice a difference on take off and especially on the high end of the taco-meter. And lastly, purchase the 1 piece steel braided clutch line that connects the master cylinder to the slave eliminating the annoying dampener box. This last thing gives you much better pedal feel and it becomes rediculously easy to bleed the clutch system.

At some point down the line invest in a proper short shifter. It does not have to be a B&M but it should be the complete shifter that replaces the base plate. These can run from $30 to well over $100. Make sure to get a gasket as well. It is much easier to replace the gasket than try and install the shifter using silicone.

And for the record, yes I have used a B&M short shifter and I replaced it with an Ebay piece that does not RATTLE at any rpm. I believe it was a Mokeeh, but I would not be surprised if it was a Megan shifter in a different box. Well that is my suggestion. As with all things, take it with a grain of salt, and do your own due diligence. Good luck.

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cmurder342
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wow this has helped so much, thanks alot!
one thing though, i already have 2 stock flywheels at home would it be the same if i just went and got one resurfaced then use it?
-Clint

gumby74
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Nothing wrong with that at all. Obviously that will save you on the cost of replacing the flywheel. Also, I would like to add that you may as well replace the rear main seal while everything is off. The seal is not all too expensive, about $15 if memory serves.

Keep in mind, after you have replaced the clutch and driven enough to break it in, you may begin to get some clutch slippage. Do not be alarmed, you may need only to re-adjust the master cylinder. There is a thread covering this recently, and there should be info on this in the archives.

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cmurder342
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yet again another wise member of nicoclub forums has helped me in life thanks a lot, i really appreciate it! :dblthumb:
-Clint


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