Plenum spacer question

[Joey666Crack]

I drive an 06 Coupe, and I was just wondering if I should get a 5/16 or a half inch? I want the most power out of my first mod, and I will be keeping all the stock parts in case I want to sell it in the future, so that's not really an option. Opinions on the sizes?

[joe603]

5/16 will be easier. The gains from the 1/2 will actually less overall.

Do you have a 6MT or Auto.

[G_whizz]

Do you care about putting the engine cover back on? Most of the time it won't fit with the 1/2.

I went with the 5/16. Trust me...you will not see a difference between the 2. Save the extra $$$ and put it towards something else.

[kmckis1029]

+ 1

5/16th you will love the new sound after like 3800 rpm

[Poyzinous]

Get a 14oz Strip steak medium with seasoned house fries and the cornbread. Its delicious. Also tell the bartender you want the extra large draft beer glass. The waitress always says you can get the 16 or the 20. But you have to secretly request the 28oz megamug. Pretty much all their desserts are delicious. I like the Browniecake thing with ice cream.

[Joey666Crack]

5/16 will be easier. The gains from the 1/2 will actually less overall.

Do you have a 6MT or Auto.

6mt. Also I've heard mixed things about including the stock plenum gasket in the re installation of the top plenum, and whether or not to use a silicone sealant.

[bina12834]

whats the difference between the regular, ISO and ISO Copper?

[Joey666Crack]

whats the difference between the regular, ISO and ISO Copper?

+1

[joe603]

If you have the 6MT, I HIGHLY recommend you also get the MREV2 lower plenum from Motordyne. With the MREV2 and the spacer, your engine will sound 10x better then OEM, with a nice boost of HP in the usable RPM range.

Finish it off with a popcharger and the Z-tube.

The copper has an additional layer of metal to help with heatsoak. Check out motordyne's website for more info:

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/

[joe603]

Get a 14oz Strip steak medium with seasoned house fries and the cornbread. Its delicious. Also tell the bartender you want the extra large draft beer glass. The waitress always says you can get the 16 or the 20. But you have to secretly request the 28oz megamug. Pretty much all their desserts are delicious. I like the Browniecake thing with ice cream.

[Joey666Crack]

If you have the 6MT, I HIGHLY recommend you also get the MREV2 lower plenum from Motordyne. With the MREV2 and the spacer, your engine will sound 10x better then OEM, with a nice boost of HP in the usable RPM range.

Finish it off with a popcharger and the Z-tube.

The copper has an additional layer of metal to help with heatsoak. Check out motordyne's website for more info:

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/

I was definitely looking into the pop charger, but instead of the ztube I was thinking about the stillen hi flow. I don't really like the plastic look of the ztube.

[Poyzinous]

Yea that was supposed to be an email to my cousin, but i cut it from the email to send it from a different account, and at the same time i was ready to write a post here, and i got tied up with phone calls and distracted, so i pasted my paragraph here and posted it. When i noticed my mistake, i thought it was funny so i left it.

[Sentientbydesign]

Any spacer on a rev-up (6mt) lower collector will yield small if any results per motordyne.

Theoretically, the front two intake runners should be getting better airflow with a spacer (especially since the rev-up lower plenum collector has taller runners).

The "best" combination for the rev-ups is a MREV2 with a spacer. The MREV2 will add mid-range power and the spacer will make up for the MREV-2's lower peak HP.

Realistically, the most "powerful" mod on the 6mt would be a lightweight flywheel. Plenum adjustment and exhaust would come in 2nd.

[Joey666Crack]

How difficult would it be to install the mrev?

[Sentientbydesign]

How difficult would it be to install the mrev?

Not very. The only specialized tool that you'll "need" is a torque wrench.

I'd say about 2-3 hours if you work slowly. Motordyne supposedly has really great instructions. I haven't personally seen them, but they should help. The only PITA part is the fuel line (not bending it) and the vacuum/coolant hoses. The rest is just you and your 10mm socket

[Joey666Crack]

Alright thank you everyone for your help.

[bina12834]

so what about us AT owners? will the 5/16 spacer + z-tube + K&N drop-in + '06mt rev-up airbox produce any power gains?

[BrandAidDesignG35]

Oh yeah for sure.

I'm now planning to run my fujita intake into the stock air box and keep it running on cool air. I currently have a warm air intake, and I think I'm running lean.

The mods you listed would help you chirp in 2nd, but don't forget grounding wires for the AT... good times.

[joe603]

A lightweight flywheel will make the car sound like a dumptruck...I'm going to put my OEM dual-mass back in eventually.

The flywheel does nothing for HP gain...only faster acceleration/deceleration.

[bina12834]

The mods you listed would help you chirp in 2nd, but don't forget grounding wires for the AT... good times.

wheres a good place to get the grounding kit? someone on here make and sell them?

what about the MREV2? can us AT owners use that too, or is that strictly for the MT owners?

[bina12834]

The copper has an additional layer of metal to help with heatsoak. Check out motordyne's website for more info:

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/

it says to get the copper one if you get snow in your area....im in northern virginia where we get snow sometimes, but not like maine or michigan.....do i need to get the copper one?

[joe603]

From the Motordyne website:

General Information:

Plenum Spacers:

Instantly add 10-15 horsepower and a deeper engine note to your Z or G with a Motordyne plenum spacer. The Motordyne Plenum spacers are stealth. The 5/16" spacer is designed to work with your car's stock engine cover and strut bar. Installation is fast and easy; other than unbolting the stock collectors to switch in parts, nothing else is modified or changed. There are two sizes of plenum spacers to choose from and each offers an advantage for different applications. Both add power and a deeper growl under the hood. The 1/2" spacer typically yields 1 to 1.5 HP more than the 5/16" plenum spacer.

For turbo charged and super charged vehicles, the gains can easily exceed 17-23 HP.

Iso Thermal and Copper Iso Thermal:

Iso Thermal and Copper Iso Thermal upgrades reduce heat transfer to substantially reduce upper and lower plenum temperatures. Cooler intake air temperatures increase air density and reduces the tendency for detonation or ping.

1) The first component is an Aramid thermal isolating gasket that is installed between the lower plenum and intake manifold. By installing a Motordyne Iso thermal Aramid gasket between the intake manifold and lower plenum, the heat soak is significantly reduced.

2) The second component is the throttle body Coolant Control Valve (CCV). The CCV allows you to selectively heat (or not heat) the plenum assembly. With local weather temperatures below 55'F the valve is left open. In warmer weather the valve can be closed for maximum thermal benefits.

3) The third thermal management component is the Iso Thermal plenum internal supports. The plenum internal supports are self retaining and self sealing. In addition to providing sealing and support, the internal supports are thermally non-conductive to effectively shut down heat transfer through the six plenum internal posts.

4) The fourth thermal management component is the Copper Throttle Body heater. Copper Iso Thermal is a premium set and forget component that can be used in place of the Coolant Control Valve (CCV). It doesn't matter how hot or cold the weather is, you don't have to adjust a valve based on the season or ambient temperatures. Install it and the throttle body remains heated while the plenum continues to remain thermally isolated. Keeping the throttle body heated prevents ice formation on the throttle body butterfly valve when driving in cold weather. If it snows or gets really cold in your area, use the Copper Iso Thermal so your engine can take full advantage of the cold air you are driving in.

MREV 2 Manifold:

The Motordyne MREV 2 Manifold is high-torque plenum mod designed for use on any VQ engine.

When used with a 5/16" spacer on the REVUP engine, every test to date shows MREV 2 Manifold will add a "minimum" of 15+ HP and 18+ TQ at 4500 RPM. MREV 2 Manifold is easily the single most effective bolt on modification available for the REVUP VQ engine.

When used with on the non-REVUP engine, the gains are very similar to that of the 5/16" spacer but the MREV 2 Manifold will show a slightly lower peak value, with a slightly higher average value and a slightly higher TQ value. Overall, MREV 2 Manifold provides "area under the curve" and is the highest gain plenum mod available.

[Sentientbydesign]

A lightweight flywheel will make the car sound like a dumptruck...I'm going to put my OEM dual-mass back in eventually.

The flywheel does nothing for HP gain...only faster acceleration/deceleration.

Got to learn how to drive the car, Joe. Keep it above 2k RPMs for all gears and don't try to accelerate when you have low torque multiplication.

The lightweight flywheels allow a significant amount of torque to be applied directly to wheel acceleration instead of flywheel acceleration. That's comparable to having increased HP

wheres a good place to get the grounding kit? someone on here make and sell them?

what about the MREV2? can us AT owners use that too, or is that strictly for the MT owners?

Click the link in my signature or email me.

[joe603]

Got to learn how to drive the car, Joe. Keep it above 2k RPMs for all gears and don't try to accelerate when you have low torque multiplication.

The lightweight flywheels allow a significant amount of torque to be applied directly to wheel acceleration instead of flywheel acceleration. That's comparable to having increased HP

Keeping the car at 2k sounds easy...but trying to go slow in school/town zones and under 2k in second gear is the norm (shifting back into 1st is a no-no). Not to mention stoplights, drive through windows, traffic, and any other time the car is idling. With summer and the AC being used, the sound is really loud and annoying. If I had to do over, I would have kept the OEM flywheel on and only put on a stage 2 clutch.

I still disagree with you on the notion that a lightweight flywheel will increase HP...it will only make acceleration/deceleration quicker and more abrupt. Having a clutch with increased grip will apply the torque faster, and thus faster transfer of power.

[Sentientbydesign]

Keeping the car at 2k sounds easy...but trying to go slow in school/town zones and under 2k in second gear is the norm (shifting back into 1st is a no-no). Not to mention stoplights, drive through windows, traffic, and any other time the car is idling. With summer and the AC being used, the sound is really loud and annoying. If I had to do over, I would have kept the OEM flywheel on and only put on a stage 2 clutch.

I still disagree with you on the notion that a lightweight flywheel will increase HP...it will only make acceleration/deceleration quicker and more abrupt. Having a clutch with increased grip will apply the torque faster, and thus faster transfer of power.

I didn't say it increased HP, I said it was comparable to increasing HP. I personally don't care how more torque gets to the wheels, I just want more torque to the wheels lol.

DISCLAIMER: Lightweight flywheels don't increase HP, they reduce drivetrain losses (mainly affects acceleration/deceleration).

I wish you lived closer, Joe. I think the RPS flywheel would be a much better fit for you than the CC flywheel that you got. My RPS is definately quieter than the JWT. And I live in the historic district with school zones and 25-35 MPH zones everywhere. I know how it goes. Down shifting into first isn't so bad if you rev match.