Please take a look at these pics
Please take a look at these pics
Hey guys, for those who have been following my SR story here's an update, yesterday we took the head off, and I took some pictures. To me it looks like one of the cleanest heads I've seen, and I know I didn't blow the head gasket. But check these pics out and tell me if you see something I can't. By the way in the first pic it looks like there's a gouge in the piston, but that's just some sealant that fell onto the piston
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Silvia240sxNiSmO
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2003 12:23 pm
- Car: imports
What was the whole story in detail? all the symptoms... can you see hatchmarks on all parts of the cyl walls? did you measure ring gap?shaunp.s. i just went thru the same thing...took out a motor and couldn't find anything wrong! put in a new motor and everything was okay....for a little while.shaun
OK here's the whole story. This engine came modified from Japan, came with a Trust TD06S, 850 CC injectors, apex 1.2 mm head gasket, cams, and top mount manifold.
This car was my friends car and his project, and I bought it from him after the engine had been started once, after it had been put in the car etc. Well I bought it and brought it home. Started it up and took it on a test drive. Hit boost and then we shut it off for the night. It had an idle problem, idled from 1600 RPM to 2100 RPM continuosly. When the next morning came the car wouldn't start. I switched the aftermarket ECU, which is modded for the Z32 MAF and the injectors, for a stock ECU, and the car started. We then had to drive it to the muffler shop, well about half way there, the car hits boost, and when we shut it off, it won't start at all. Come back later and replace the plugs, which were completly fouled, and put in new ones. Starts again. Take it for another test drive, hit boost through three gears and the car dies on the way back. Coast to the shop. Open to the hood and there is oil all over the right side of the engine, it came outta the recirculater valve. No idea how the hell it started coming out the recirculator, in fact we still have no idea why its coming outta there but anyway, from that point on the car won't start. And it's spitting the air/fuel mixture out the recirculator valve. Well we get it to push start but if you take your foot off the pedal it would die, no sputter nothing, just die. And when my mechanic looked at it, he listened to it, and when you revved it you could hear the lower end knocking, so we knew the engine had to come out anyway. Also it would absolutly not key start. If you cranked it enough, and cut the gas supply to almost nothing it would stutter, but not start. So last night we pulled the head off and above is what we saw, I wiped the pistons off a little, but they pretty much looked like as above, and I have to say guys WTF!!??!?!?!?! I don't get it, any ideas? When we compression tested it it tested to about 70 PSI across the board, but is it possible for that to be all rings? Tell me what you think Thanks very much Chris Morrow
This car was my friends car and his project, and I bought it from him after the engine had been started once, after it had been put in the car etc. Well I bought it and brought it home. Started it up and took it on a test drive. Hit boost and then we shut it off for the night. It had an idle problem, idled from 1600 RPM to 2100 RPM continuosly. When the next morning came the car wouldn't start. I switched the aftermarket ECU, which is modded for the Z32 MAF and the injectors, for a stock ECU, and the car started. We then had to drive it to the muffler shop, well about half way there, the car hits boost, and when we shut it off, it won't start at all. Come back later and replace the plugs, which were completly fouled, and put in new ones. Starts again. Take it for another test drive, hit boost through three gears and the car dies on the way back. Coast to the shop. Open to the hood and there is oil all over the right side of the engine, it came outta the recirculater valve. No idea how the hell it started coming out the recirculator, in fact we still have no idea why its coming outta there but anyway, from that point on the car won't start. And it's spitting the air/fuel mixture out the recirculator valve. Well we get it to push start but if you take your foot off the pedal it would die, no sputter nothing, just die. And when my mechanic looked at it, he listened to it, and when you revved it you could hear the lower end knocking, so we knew the engine had to come out anyway. Also it would absolutly not key start. If you cranked it enough, and cut the gas supply to almost nothing it would stutter, but not start. So last night we pulled the head off and above is what we saw, I wiped the pistons off a little, but they pretty much looked like as above, and I have to say guys WTF!!??!?!?!?! I don't get it, any ideas? When we compression tested it it tested to about 70 PSI across the board, but is it possible for that to be all rings? Tell me what you think Thanks very much Chris Morrow
The compression was 70? was it warmed when you checked it? did you have the gas peddle all the way down and the injectors unplugged? if you did it like explained above, yeah you have a bad motor, 70psi will not want to start.
but there is also some wiring issues that i have seen casue the enigne to not start when its cold. i haven't figured that out yet, but oneday my car just wouldn't start until the temp outside got warm. i swapped everything, even the engine. still same problem. i think i have it narrowed down the harness having a short on a certain wire. if you can get it started, keep blirping the gas for about 3 minutes until it will idle on its own. let it warm up and set the idle to about 800 or so and timing to about 17 degrees. the oil coming out of your recirculating valve, (bov) can indicate that the oil come from a few different spots..1. the vent on the valvecover "T" is sending oil to the intake and trhu the turbo. this oil may be coming from the head as blowby, or fromt the other end of the "T", at the block. 2. the engine was tipped over and all the oil worked its way out of the same "T" and into the turbo.3. your greddy turbo seals are toast.
how do you know you have cams? your mechanic hear pinging from the bottom end? the engine filled up with oil maybe. but the pics don't show much oil on top of the pistons. shaun
but there is also some wiring issues that i have seen casue the enigne to not start when its cold. i haven't figured that out yet, but oneday my car just wouldn't start until the temp outside got warm. i swapped everything, even the engine. still same problem. i think i have it narrowed down the harness having a short on a certain wire. if you can get it started, keep blirping the gas for about 3 minutes until it will idle on its own. let it warm up and set the idle to about 800 or so and timing to about 17 degrees. the oil coming out of your recirculating valve, (bov) can indicate that the oil come from a few different spots..1. the vent on the valvecover "T" is sending oil to the intake and trhu the turbo. this oil may be coming from the head as blowby, or fromt the other end of the "T", at the block. 2. the engine was tipped over and all the oil worked its way out of the same "T" and into the turbo.3. your greddy turbo seals are toast.
how do you know you have cams? your mechanic hear pinging from the bottom end? the engine filled up with oil maybe. but the pics don't show much oil on top of the pistons. shaun
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yellow_jacket
- Posts: 1355
- Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:43 pm
- Car: 95 240sx
70 across the board? I'm not sure thats even enough to run the car. I think you need a minimum of like 100psi for the car to run. How did you compression test the engine? Are you sure your gauge was good? Did you turn the motor over about 4 times for each cylinder with all the plugs out?
In the pics it almost looks like you can still see the honing marks. I kind of doubt that all the rings went bad at exactly the same rate and to this point. It looks almost like someone has recently rebuilt the bottom end.
What you should probably do is tear the bottom end down, check all the clearances and the rings. Have a machine shop pull a vaccuum on the head to see if the valves are leaking(If the guides are bad this doesn't always work well but since the motor seems to have even compression it should work for you). Lastly, did you check the timing on the chain? If the valves were closing late you will havea loss of compression.
In the pics it almost looks like you can still see the honing marks. I kind of doubt that all the rings went bad at exactly the same rate and to this point. It looks almost like someone has recently rebuilt the bottom end.
What you should probably do is tear the bottom end down, check all the clearances and the rings. Have a machine shop pull a vaccuum on the head to see if the valves are leaking(If the guides are bad this doesn't always work well but since the motor seems to have even compression it should work for you). Lastly, did you check the timing on the chain? If the valves were closing late you will havea loss of compression.
Erghh.. You lost me there..
"I switched the aftermarket ECU, which is modded for the Z32 MAF and the injectors, for a stock ECU, and the car started."
You meen that you drove the car around on the stock ECU with 850cc injectors and Z32 MAF, and your suprised that it would stop ??
You might have some other problems, but filling it with fuel aint a good ide.
"I switched the aftermarket ECU, which is modded for the Z32 MAF and the injectors, for a stock ECU, and the car started."
You meen that you drove the car around on the stock ECU with 850cc injectors and Z32 MAF, and your suprised that it would stop ??
You might have some other problems, but filling it with fuel aint a good ide.
Thanks for all the replies, to awnser the questions about the compression test, I hadn't warmed the car up, because at that point it wouldn't start. It was compression tested cold, and we didn't hold the gas pedal down and we didn't unplug the injectors, which I guess would throw the #s off. The bottom end was definitly knocking, so yeah we'll be pulling that apart to figure it out.
Yesterday just for the hell of it, I put some motor oil in the cylender wells to see if the rings are leaking, and what do you know, the oil is slowly draining from the cylender wells.
I was confused as well by how good the engine looked, I mean all I did was wipe the pistons off once will a towel, but that's it, and they look almost new. You can see a cross hatch pattern on the sides of the cylender walls, and I'm not quite sure what that is, but it's on all four.
We checked the chain when we pulled the head, it was perfectly tensioned, and hadn't jumped or anything, but I'm not quite sure how to chech timing on the chain.
And the oil coming out the T was every time the engine was revved up pretty high, is it normal to blow that much oil out of it? I didn't think so, cause that'd be a hell ofa lot of oil in the engine, is this why people get catch cans? Don't know guys, I have no idea on this one, we'll see what everything looks like when we get the engine out. Thanks for the input Chris
Yesterday just for the hell of it, I put some motor oil in the cylender wells to see if the rings are leaking, and what do you know, the oil is slowly draining from the cylender wells.
I was confused as well by how good the engine looked, I mean all I did was wipe the pistons off once will a towel, but that's it, and they look almost new. You can see a cross hatch pattern on the sides of the cylender walls, and I'm not quite sure what that is, but it's on all four.
We checked the chain when we pulled the head, it was perfectly tensioned, and hadn't jumped or anything, but I'm not quite sure how to chech timing on the chain.
And the oil coming out the T was every time the engine was revved up pretty high, is it normal to blow that much oil out of it? I didn't think so, cause that'd be a hell ofa lot of oil in the engine, is this why people get catch cans? Don't know guys, I have no idea on this one, we'll see what everything looks like when we get the engine out. Thanks for the input Chris
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yellow_jacket
- Posts: 1355
- Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:43 pm
- Car: 95 240sx
You'll be ok not warming the car up and not shutting off the injectors. It won't make that much of a difference with what you have. As far as the cross hatch pattern thats from being honed. Whether by a machine shop or by the factory.
Oil will of course leak out if left in the cylinders. The rings are not one solid piece and so they havea gap in them.
As for checking the chain timing, just make sure the marks are lined up on the various sprockets.
Oil will of course leak out if left in the cylinders. The rings are not one solid piece and so they havea gap in them.
As for checking the chain timing, just make sure the marks are lined up on the various sprockets.
Check that the head is straight also. I don't know what it's called in english but if the engine get to hot it will bent. You will then have low compression on all cylinders.
Recommend that you take the head to a repair shop that can check that the valves is tight and that the head is straight. It's worth it knowing that atleast the head is ok when putting it back together.
Recommend that you take the head to a repair shop that can check that the valves is tight and that the head is straight. It's worth it knowing that atleast the head is ok when putting it back together.
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sk8erguy1501
- Posts: 256
- Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2003 1:54 am
- Car: 90 240sx KA24DE
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