please kat guru guys! has fuel air and spark at the right time but doesnt start

[neverlift]

I normally just figure it out via search or trial and error, but both have failed me this time.

I am having major starting issue as in it wont start. The timing is on and its getting fuel but it will not crank. spark is a bright yellow(lmk if thats good or bad ) please help me

[480sx]

What have you done to the engine since you had it running last? You gotta give us some more info man.

[Florida240sx]

wire loose, dizzy 180 out?? out of gas? rag in intake? battery deadish? info what ha schanged or new rebuilt engine? then what do oyu have on it? new ecu?

[neverlift]

well the engine is rebuilt .020 over and the rest is the same I was running for 20000+ miles(n/a and boosted). The only new things are internal(pistons and bearings, and gaskets) thats why I'm so confused. I did notice however that the harness is a rats nest of bs, I put all the wires back together how they were but it still wont catch. IT sounded like it would a few times with the fuel pump fuse pulled but as soon as its back in the thing wont start.

ALL marks were exact when installing the internals dizzy is dead on too(I tried turning it 180 twice)

Again guys my bad on the fuct post I am just 4 days into this install and its not going smooth, the rebuild went like ICE tho first time and it was caek took longer to get the parts and money then the rebuild and install(well minus 2 hours on the ds motor mount ) but it was a solo effort with an incline So needless to say I have a few hundred in parts just sitting and it shouldnt take me 3 days of trouble shooting to get my used to be running car, running.

AGAIN PLEASE

[neverlift]

would resistance cause it to not run or start cause with power on I get like 11 and with ignition turned off I get like .3 PLEASE tell me I just need to add grounds I'm gonna try to find any bare wires touching but IDK I didnt have any... Also going to add some gronds just in case thats it...

[480sx]

Kinda sounds like your cam timing might be off. If you are relying on the marks you made on the timing chain its realllyy easy to mess it up. You should always do it with the colored marked on the timing chain itself, matching up to the indents on the sprockets.

You did all the work yourself? How did you install the lower+upper chains?

Check everything else first though. The thing is, if your sure your getting fuel, and the correctly timed spark it doesnt leave much else it could be. You have checked your ignition timing with a light when your cranking it and its at 20?

[Garrett0x]

Id second the cam timing. Also just throwing it out there.. double check your MAF wiring.

[neverlift]

maf never came unwired.... its hard wired in.

I am on the cam timing in the morning. I dont get it though it sound/feels like the cylinder is making pressure all the way to the tdc. And all the timing marks lined up(not just my marks)

[steve s14]

Make sure your fuel lines are installed on the correct sides. If it's a ka24de, it's easy to do and if they are crossed, the engine won't get fuel and it won't start.On a ka24de, the line off of the fuel filter should plug into the metal line angled toward the front of the car, and underneath the other metal fuel line.The metal line on the top and angled toward the rear of the car should plug into the return line (the one not connected to the fuel filter).Check that and see if your fuel lines are installed correctly.

[neverlift]

no the fuel lines are right, I have a megan afpr and i cut th eold hoses off the barbs so I wouldnt have that issue

I am thinking I have the motor on the intake not the compression stroke I should know after olive garden and stuff.

[WDRacing]

If it isn't the cam thing, pull the plugs and crank it over a few times with the cylinders open. Incase its flooded...

Then clean/reinstall the plugs.

Recheck the plug wires are on right.

Check the battery for the proper ground etc.

Attach a jumper cable or battery charger etc. Spray starting fluid into the intake with the throttle open.

I'd say disconnect the MAF if you can.

Now crank her for 6-7 seconds.

If it wants to fire up but then stops it's a fuel problem. BEcause it was the ether in the starting fluid that was burning. If it doesn't want to fire at all it's the ignition side.

If you have two people, have someone crank it over while you feel the injectors fire, also you can spray starting fluid into the throttle during the cranking procedure.

That's where I'd start. Let us know what you find.

WD

[dodge turbo diesel]

flush fuel lines/ remove fpr and dissassemble & clean this is also a good procedure to execute during any major overhaul project.

[dodge turbo diesel]

check injector plug output in reference to the book , do this with all injector plugs removed. also crank with all injectors unplugged for 15-20 seconds to unflood the engine in any scenario. leave spark plugs in as often as you can the threads do not need any unnessesary abuse , if the plugs act fouled once car runs then remove and only then.

[C-Kwik]

IT sounded like it would a few times with the fuel pump fuse pulled but as soon as its back in the thing wont start.

Based on this, it's possible the motor was flooded. Perhaps you have some bad injector seals which allow the motor to get flooded. Try pulling hte spark plugs after trying to start the motor to see if there is any fuel on the plugs.

[steve s14]

If the engine is a dual cam with the stock fuel rail and the injectors were replaced, it could be that one of the injector o-rings got pinched and split and is leaking internally.To check for it, i would recommend removing the fuel rail from the intake manifold but leave it connected to the fuel hoses and turn the key to the on position and see if fuel is leaking out of the bottom of the injector cups.It happens a lot to people who replace side feed injectors and don't lube the o-rings properly before installation.

[neverlift]

thanx guys turns out I'm stupid and compresion equals intake stroke to me now I have a new issue. The car starts first try then dies out, stumbling itself to off.

The vac gauge reads like 15 then the motor dies out, kinda hunts on its way out. no longer have a loaner car so its kinda important I can get it running asap.

[Florida240sx]

So what was off?

[480sx]

Kinda sounds like he just messed up his dizzy timing... I think what you ment to say was compression stroke equals exhaust stroke but.. Just a guess heh.

Still sounds like you have a timing issue man, have someone crank on the car while you rotate your dizzy to see if you can find a place where it wants to run.

[neverlift]

well timing is set to 20 like it should, would 180* out make it run like that, I mean it violent as ****.

florida I had the cam timed to my exhaust stroke, sorry about the confusion

[480sx]

If your sure your dizzy timing is right then its probably your cam timing man.. The 15HG vac supports this, and your engine coughing.

Your sure your injectors are firing, and your sure your getting spark on all 4?

[steve s14]

I would agree that if your ignition timing is correct, then your cam timing is probably off.

Do you have a single cam motor?I just realized from the info below your title, that you most likely have a sohc motor All this time i've been giving you dohc advice.

Ignition timing is easy to get wrong on a single cam motor if the oil pump is removed or if the front cover is taken off since the shaft that drives the distributor is connected to the oil pump and needs to be indexed correctly for the distributor to be timed correctly. It can be a real pita to get the shaft position correct.
Modified by steve s14 at 11:27 PM 1/15/2008

[neverlift]

sorry for acting so newb guys I just got impatient I geuss.. maybe rushing is better word placement.. neways motor is a rebuilt ka24de I call it a piggy cause the car had a pignose

well I am sure all sparks spark and all injectors squirt Had wife crank while I had all spark plugs out and watched the injectors fire off into the cylinders...

spark couldnt be 180 out?

well looks like I start again with my timing, its getting under my skin cause I spent 3 hours lining it all up(lower cover still on) yesterday, now its still off. Can anyone snap a pic of the motor(with v/c off) lined up correctly. Also does the bright silver go to the idler sprocket or on the cam sprockets?

[steve s14]

Thanks for clearing that up.Since you have your valve cover off, i would make sure your cam positions look correct with the engine at tdc for cyl number one.http://jimwolftechnology.com/w...E.PDF

After you get the cam timing checked out, double check your distributor timing.http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=161707

[C-Kwik]

well I am sure all sparks spark and all injectors squirt Had wife crank while I had all spark plugs out and watched the injectors fire off into the cylinders...

But have you confirmed the injectors don't leak? It may not appear any different by looking at it as the timing of the fuel is still going to be dependent on the intake valve opening event and it would likely still spray when the injector opens.

Try removing all 4 of the injector's electrical plugs. Pull the fuel pump and crank it several times to pass any fuel that is in the cylinders out. then plug the fuel pump fuse back in and crank it again. If you have a leak, there will be fuel pumping into one or more of the cylinders. The cylinders with fuel in it will correspond with the injector(s) that are leaking. I'd at least check this before tearing everything apart.