please help with this flywheel situation

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mikey300nc
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 12:25 pm
Car: 1991 300zx twin turbo,
Location: morganton nc
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okay, i bought a brand new stage one competetion clutch, and i put it in myself and i had the flywheel turned also, torqued everything down to the proper specs. after that was all done i got to drive my z again, finally. i took it easy on it for about 600 miles to break it in so after that one day i decided to get on it and what do you know it slipped AGAIN!!! i thought a bolt might have loosened up and then i dropped the trani again to find out that the pad on my clutch disk would wiggle. took it back to where i got it and they wouldnt replace it. so then i took it to carolina clutch and had it rebuilt along with the flywheel resurfaced again. ive had everything put back together since thursday aug. 5th. driving it everywhere shiftin between 2000 and 3000 rpms.ive put 500+ miles on it now so i gave it a lil throttle to see if it would hold and it didnt when it hit full boost. what do you think the problem could be??? here's what im thinkin, when i got the flywheel back it had been surfaced all across the face and didnt't have the lip that it had before i got it surfaced. so i believe that the clutch disk isnt getting sandwichd enough in between the pressure plate and the flywheel! could that possibly be it??? gah this is agrivating! :wtf2:


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Milton'Z Nissan'Z
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Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:41 am
Car: 1990 300ZX tt
1990 240SX

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If you had the stock flywheel resurfaced and they didn't machine the original step back into it, then it will slip under boost and higher gears. Had that happen way back when so I replaced it with an RPS flywheel and it's perfect. I know a lot of posts say it doesn't matter, but it does. It adds a little more clamping force with the step.

You probably did this, but do also need to make sure that there is zero air in the system and the pedal stroke is set up right or it will slip when warm when the air/fluid goes hygroscopic and acts as though you are stepping slightly on the clutch pedal. It takes 3 or 4 times of bleeding at both points for all air to be gone as crazy as that may sound.

Also, what other mods do you have? Too much power for a stage 1 would also do it.

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evildky
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Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2004 9:23 pm
Car: 71 Datsun 240ZT
87 Nissan 300ZX N/A-T
06 Nissan 350Z GT
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CC sent me the wrogn PP once, I had the trans in and out a dozen times tyying to figure out what was wrong, they replaced ti free fo charge but taht didn't make up for the hours I spent under the car

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mikey300nc
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Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 12:25 pm
Car: 1991 300zx twin turbo,
Location: morganton nc
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thanks guys! im pretty sure its the flywheel because both time i had it resurfaced the step wasnt there and did the same exact thing both times. ive bleed my clutch 3 times so far, i even got a new slave cylinder. ill try bleening it again to see if its better but if it dont ill baby it til funds will let me get a new flywheel! the only mods done to it is its a jdm engine, the clutch, fmic, z1 1 piece drive shaft, a hi/lo boost setting from 8 to 14 psi, i have custom screamer pipes which makes the turbos spool so much faster and sounds great, with full 2.5 open piping all the way back to stock mufflers to keep it a lil quietier.

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evildky
Posts: 14225
Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2004 9:23 pm
Car: 71 Datsun 240ZT
87 Nissan 300ZX N/A-T
06 Nissan 350Z GT
Toyota Tundra TRD RW
Location: Louisville, KY
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when you bled the clutch, you did bleed the slave and the remote bleeder ont he fender right? and the master and slave are both good right?

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mikey300nc
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Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 12:25 pm
Car: 1991 300zx twin turbo,
Location: morganton nc
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yeah both the master and slave are fine. and i did bleed both of them like 4 or 5 times.


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