Car in question is a 1995 240SX SE 5-speed.
I'm getting a very strong vibration when I do a low RPM clutch slip from a stop. It feels just like wheel hop (and has the loud thumping as well), but my wheels are definitely not hopping.
When I am in neutral and depress the clutch about 1 inch, I can feel a light pulsation through the clutch pedal that has the same rate as the clutch slip shudder. Pressing the clutch pedal further in, I don't feel anything through the pedal.
I was originally thinking along the lines of an improperly broken in clutch/flywheel that grabs and gives when I'm doing the low rev clutch slip from a stop, but feeling the pulsation through the pedal makes me suspect something else.
Could the clutch dampener cause such a problem?
I am in the San Jose area if someone knowledgeable would like to take a look at the car in person.
Thanks in advance.
Please Help - Very bad shudder with Low RPM clutch slip
I don't know much about clutch systems, but what can go bad with a pressure plate and how would it cause the symptoms I'm experiencing?
I just bought the car, and in the service records, I see a clutch job was done in January, 2003 with an OE clutch kit which includes disc, pressure plate, release bearing, and pilot bushing.
I just bought the car, and in the service records, I see a clutch job was done in January, 2003 with an OE clutch kit which includes disc, pressure plate, release bearing, and pilot bushing.
Thanks for your help.
I'm going to attempt my first transmission removal soon. Is there a writeup anywhere here on how to pull the manual transmission for clutch/flywheel service?
I don't have the 240sx service manual, but I do have the S14 200SX manual...would the clutch service have an identical procedure?
I'm going to attempt my first transmission removal soon. Is there a writeup anywhere here on how to pull the manual transmission for clutch/flywheel service?
I don't have the 240sx service manual, but I do have the S14 200SX manual...would the clutch service have an identical procedure?
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Magnes
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Thu Jan 30, 2003 6:58 pm
- Car: '89 240SX, done up with a chrome-plated ground wire to the engine.
Engine mounts. I have the same problem and also attributed it to the clutch, but two things changed my mind:
1* I resurfaced the flywheel and replaced the clutch and pressure plate, and the shudder continued.
2* I noticed the rubber intake hose in front of the intake was cracked in several places, as if it was being streched too far (as in the engine was moving more than it was designed to do).
I am also convinced it is the engine mounts because the shudder is more severe at warmer temperatures (which will soften the rubber mounts even more). Have you noticed any difference in warm weather, or when the engine bay is warmed up?
1* I resurfaced the flywheel and replaced the clutch and pressure plate, and the shudder continued.
2* I noticed the rubber intake hose in front of the intake was cracked in several places, as if it was being streched too far (as in the engine was moving more than it was designed to do).
I am also convinced it is the engine mounts because the shudder is more severe at warmer temperatures (which will soften the rubber mounts even more). Have you noticed any difference in warm weather, or when the engine bay is warmed up?
No, I haven't noticed it being worse when it's warmer - actually, I believe it's worse when the car is cold.
I actually also don't believe it's the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate - I'm noticing a lot of banging from the rear of the car when this happens, so I'm going to investigate the diff and subframe bushings soon.
Been busy with an Altima and a shop who really pissed me off.
I actually also don't believe it's the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate - I'm noticing a lot of banging from the rear of the car when this happens, so I'm going to investigate the diff and subframe bushings soon.
Been busy with an Altima and a shop who really pissed me off.
Re: (MiniR34)
Sorry about bringing back a thread from the dead, but I'm hoping people can use this information.
I finally got around to changing the clutch this weekend, and the shudder is completely gone.
Before doing the clutch, I tried a few different things. First was SPL Parts Subframe Collars. The whole subframe was shaking during the shudder, so I tried this easy fix with no results.
After that, I removed the clutch dampener, also with no results.
The clutch job took me about 20 hours. 8 of those hours was spent with me trying to fit the transmission back into the engine.
I don't know exactly which part was causing the shudder/clutch pedal pulsation, but I'm leaning very strongly towards the release bearing. When looking at it while it was on the release collar, it looked crooked. I thought it was a really bad mounting job by the previous mechanic, but it is impossible to misalign it. I then discovered that the rotating surface of the bearing could be moved around sideways. I'll try to take a picture of it later.
The replacement release bearing I received with my kit looked about 3/4 to 7/8 of the thickness of the old one - any cause for concern there?
Also, the pilot bearing was worn quite badly on one side, but I think that was caused by these other issues, not causing it.
I finally got around to changing the clutch this weekend, and the shudder is completely gone.
Before doing the clutch, I tried a few different things. First was SPL Parts Subframe Collars. The whole subframe was shaking during the shudder, so I tried this easy fix with no results.
After that, I removed the clutch dampener, also with no results.
The clutch job took me about 20 hours. 8 of those hours was spent with me trying to fit the transmission back into the engine.
I don't know exactly which part was causing the shudder/clutch pedal pulsation, but I'm leaning very strongly towards the release bearing. When looking at it while it was on the release collar, it looked crooked. I thought it was a really bad mounting job by the previous mechanic, but it is impossible to misalign it. I then discovered that the rotating surface of the bearing could be moved around sideways. I'll try to take a picture of it later.
The replacement release bearing I received with my kit looked about 3/4 to 7/8 of the thickness of the old one - any cause for concern there?
Also, the pilot bearing was worn quite badly on one side, but I think that was caused by these other issues, not causing it.