Please Help!!
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rousie13
- Posts: 4106
- Joined: Fri May 09, 2003 5:55 pm
- Car: 2006 Nissan 350z Track Edition, 1997 Ford F250 4X4
- Location: Delaware, OH
Please Help!!
Well my car has been acting up lately. Yesterday it wouldn't start at all but it push started, so I replaced the starter. Today it started up fine like 3-4 times after I replaced the starter. Then I went to step on the gas and it like died out and then reved up. I shut the car off after a couple minutes of running, and it won't start now. The idle has been high when the cars warmed up too. The engine cranks, but just won't fire. I put new plugs and wires in about a week ago. Also when the car was fairly warm I squeezed the hose going to the IACV-Air Regulator and the idle didn't die down. I checked the fuel line and we're getting pressure from the fuel pump, so it's not that. Also the plugs were soaked with gas. I checked the computer and it was flashing code 13. I checked the harness for the temp sensor and the positive is reading 10.2 V and the ground is reading .135 The FSM said the ground should have continuity and the positive should read 5V. Please help!! I don't know whats going on and need some guidance with this.
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C-Kwik
- Moderator
- Posts: 8070
- Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2002 9:28 pm
- Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX
Assuming you are testing the voltage correctly, it sounds like your coolant temp sensor is receiving too high a voltage. It may be a short in the harness. Try testing the voltage at the ECU. Remove the the female connector from the harness at the ECU so you can isolate the ECU and the wire separately. Test the voltage from the ECU for the lead that goes to the coolant temp sensor. If it still reads anout 10.2V then the problme is probably the ECU. If it reads 5V then test for voltage in the wire that plugs into the ECU. There should be no voltage. If there is, you have a short somewhere in the harness. If there is a short, you have a lot of fun ahead of you. The short can be anywhere from one end of the coolant temp sensor wire to the other end. Both 240sx's I've owned have had minor electrical problems like this. Both have been in the portion of the harness that goes across the fuel rail. This area may be suceptible to this as vibration would probably have the greatest effect here. on my S13, it was towards the front of the motor. On my S14, it was to the rear. It could be anywhere, but based on my experience, I'd start at the coolant temp sensor and work my way back to the ECU.
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C-Kwik
- Moderator
- Posts: 8070
- Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2002 9:28 pm
- Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX
Well if only one spark plug was soaked in gasoline, maybe. If all 4, then it's probably the ECU dumoing too much fuel. It's doubtful that 4 injector seals would crap out at the same time.
Did you try starting the car with the gas pedal all the way down? This is how you would start a flooded motor.
As far as what I meant by removing the female connector was to remove the one wire from the harness that attaches to the ECU. This way all the wires would still be attached, but the coolant temp sensor wire would not. A bad coolant temp sensor signal usually causes the motor to run rich.
Did you try starting the car with the gas pedal all the way down? This is how you would start a flooded motor.
As far as what I meant by removing the female connector was to remove the one wire from the harness that attaches to the ECU. This way all the wires would still be attached, but the coolant temp sensor wire would not. A bad coolant temp sensor signal usually causes the motor to run rich.
