please help,oil pump replacement

[driftiteasy0113]

hey all i have an 89 240 and i need to change the oil pump,i already have the pump i just dont know how to go about doing it. i heard you gotta mess with the timing but i dunno.so if anyone could help me out with anything. instructions,links, suggestions i would really appriciate it.thanks

[My RB25]

The oil pump is a simple in and out (4 12mm bolts, you'll need a few extensions), just don't forget to use a scraper to get the old gasket off the timing cover and don't forget the new gasket lol. I would also suggest using a 'shlack' on the new pump and the timing cover. It helps seal it and keep the gasket in place when putting it on. I forgot the exact name, it's a Permatex brand, I have it in my garage, I'm changing my belt and playing with my timing tomorrow, I'll get the name.

If your putting a new one in I heard you have to 'prime' it, idk. When I took mine out I just poured the old oil out and filled it with new oil till it drained and overflowed, no problems yet.

[rogoman]

Yes, make sure the oil pump is primed with oil before installation.

The distributor has to be retimed when installing the oil pump. Remove the distributor and the old oil pump. Now you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the compression stroke in order to time the ignition distributor. To find TDC, remove #1 spark plug. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put your thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor by hand clockwise or counter-clockwise until it's pointing to ZERO. The oil pump uses a shaft to turn the distributor. Insert this shaft onto the oil pump with the punch mark on the shaft lining up with the hole on the oil pump (below gear). Install pump/shaft to block. When installed the end of the shaft will look like a "D", when looking into the distributor hole while standing at the drivers side front wheel well. Actually, it (the "D") will be more of a "11:45 o'clock" position, NOT quite "12:00"; if not, then remove, and reinstall until the above position is obtained.

Determine the #1 plug wire location on the distributor cap. Mark that location on the distributor body. Now insert the distributor into the block so that the rotor ends up pointing to the mark you put on the side of the distributor body. You now are timed close to correct; you should be able to start the motor.

[vancouverbc]

zerothread/161684

there is timing distributor article in tutorial link in my signature. not sure how helpful

[driftiteasy0113]

thank you guys this help alot.now lets see if i can do it

[lbrowne]

I would have thought for the oil pump, you take it straight out and you put the new one straight in. You timing is not changing, the car is off and everything else is staying in place....

[My RB25]

Basically if you set your engine to TDC before hand you should be ok (please someone correct me if I'm wrong). I did my timing chain last weekend, took everything out (dist, dist drive gear, oil pump, etc.). Actually I set my to 15* BTDC (20* on the DE) (2nd mark to the right of the pulley) and she runs fine, with the exception of a small oil leak around the pan (I didn't remove it for the job), which I expected, but I'll be replacing the pan soon anway.

Just when you go to mark up your engine, make sure you have the - battery terminal disconnected (don't need the engine turning over on you when your turning it by hand...) and just turn the crank with a 27mm socket and a 1/2 in ratchet or breaker bar, depending on how hard yours is. Either that or disc the coil wire and blip the ignition switch a few times till your marks are close, that way your not turning the whole thing by hand.

Also remember, just cause the crank is marked tdc, doesn't mean #1 cyl is, it could be the fourth. With straight down plugs is the easiets way to determine this, but I guess it could work on the KA. Put a screw driver (long one) in the #1 cyl spark plug hole, turn the engine (by hand) and watch the screw driver, it'll bob up and down as you turn the engine. Watch till it peaks and then starts to fall back down. Get the screw driver to completly peak, your at TDC on #1. I also believe the rotor on the dist points toward the driver side strut tower or near it when at TDC (look at your cap to see if has a mark for #1, then see where the rotor is pointing in relation to the cap), done. Just note how everything looks when you take it out and make sure it looks the same way going back. Oil pump isn't a hard job. BTW the name of that stuff is Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant, just work quickly with it, it dries quickly.

[rogoman]

I would have thought for the oil pump, you take it straight out and you put the new one straight in. You timing is not changing, the car is off and everything else is staying in place....

The oil pump gear is helical cut so that when you install an oil pump, the shaft will turn thus throwing the ignition timing off.

Also remember, just cause the crank is marked tdc, doesn't mean #1 cyl is, it could be the fourth.

Not so! When the block pointer points to the ZERO mark on the crank pulley, #1 piston is always mechanically at TDC. However TDC may not be on the compression stroke.

[My RB25]

Not so! When the block pointer points to the ZERO mark on the crank pulley, #1 piston is always mechanically at TDC. However TDC may not be on the compression stroke.

You do relize the cam turns twice to every one turn of the crank right? Anyway with the DE it's much easier to tell when #1 is at TDC (compression) all the valves will be closed...hence the lobes pointing towards the fenders. If any valves are open on #1 then your not on the compression stroke.