please help, no idea what's wrong

[kas14slider]

Hi there, let me start by explaining what first went wrong with my car. One day I was driving along (car was running great for weeks now) and all of a sudden my car starts running super rich ( I have a wideband) and dies, I try to fire it up and it idles then dies. Black smoke is shooting out of the exhaust and turning down the fuel on the safc II does nothing. We tow it home and I discover that all the lower injector orings are torn. I replace all these, put them in and car still runs extremely rich and can't hold idle with black smoke constantly coming out. **** As a note, it's not my plugs because my spark plugs get fouled after every time I tried firing it up and the car ran rich soI constantly put new ones in. I have gone through a lot of sets already.**** I So I try to think what's wrong. I also had to do an oil change because it ran so rich there was a lttle bit of gas in my oil. I test the injectors to see if they are leaking and they are not and they don't make any clicking/whining noises so I don't think the solenoids in them are bad. So I think my stock maf may be bad. I go ahead and order an n60 maf because I had wanted one for a while anyways. We hook up the maf and at first it runs the same then I mess with in out settings and the fuel and I actually get the car to idle perfectly and the afr's stay in the 14's. This is a step up because before the car couldn't even idle. Now here is my new problem. The car will idle fine and you can step on the gas gradually but if I blip the throttle just a bit ( not %100 and I don't even make it to out of vacuum on the boost gauge) and instantly let off, the wideband jumpes quickly to completely lean, (at which point the car stutters a bit) then goes fully rich, returns to idle and gradually the afr's go settle back down to normal. So basically I can kind of drive it around by giving it barely any gas but as soon as I get into the throttle a little it leans out and falls flat on its face. I have no I dea what the hell could be wrong. Could it be impromper safc in out settings? I have tried a lot of combinations and most make my car either super lean or rich and it dies. But the car seems to like 1 in 5 and 2in 5out.The only thing that is wrong is my air intake piping into the turbo does not have a perfect seal because I am waiting on a 2.5inch to 3 inch coupler which will arrive tommorow. It's because the n60 maf is too big to fit into my stock sr air intake piping. So I just put on a 3in to 3in coupler which fits perfectly over the maf but does not go tight around the piping to the turbo.

Sorry for the very lengthy post but I have no idea what's going on with the car and any help would be appreciated.

Some essentials of my setup:

sr t28370cc'sstock ecu with safc II

Thanks, Alex.

[neverlift]

try no settings for the afc, the 370 and n60 go together in a k value(correction) kind of way, then see if your still piggy rich

that was a lengthy punctuationless post btw

[eazye2000]

Yeah, what he said. It's a good match.

that was a lengthy punctuationless post btw

It's ok man. I went to public school in Florida. They couldn't even teach us how to vote right.... It's all good.

[icnuthin]

check your tps sensor.

[NateDogg]

I vote for vacuum leak in the intake. Also is your BOV recirculated? If not, it will cause a rich condition on throttle release.

[ghx407]

Perhaps your previous Dec. Air and Air Flow% settings don't match your new MAF. The leak in your intake doesn't help either...

[S13FX]

Quote »The only thing that is wrong is my air intake piping into the turbo does not have a perfect seal because I am waiting on a 2.5inch to 3 inch coupler which will arrive tomorrow. [/quote]My friend this is probably your biggest problem. My friend had a crazy angle kink going from his turbo to his hot pipe, and it cause a world of weirdest problems.

[kas14slider]

Ok, so I fixed the air intake piping and that didn't do anything. Anyone have any idea or is the post just too long? Simply put the car leans out completely as soon as it tries to go into boost under load.

[icnuthin]

kinda sounds like a ecu issue or the connections from the safc to the ecu.

[eazye2000]

More fuel!!

Nah, seriously though.. More fuel. When you boost, and it leans out, that means you need more fuel..? Yes/no? I would think if you had a vacuum leak, it would go more towards the rich side..

...if you haven't learned by now, I am of absolutely no help.

[kas14slider]

God, this really sucks. I wish I knew what was wrong with it. Could a clogged fuel filter cause this?

[kas14slider]

More fuel!!

Nah, seriously though.. More fuel. When you boost, and it leans out, that means you need more fuel..? Yes/no? I would think if you had a vacuum leak, it would go more towards the rich side..

...if you haven't learned by now, I am of absolutely no help.

Well here is the really wierd thing. If it's in neutral I floor it, it goes lean for a sec but then revs fine to redline and is rich. But I tried pulling it out of the driveway and as soon as I started to go up a hill, the car went out of vaccum and instantly leaned out and shut off. And I had to roll it back into the driveway.

[neverlift]

leak test your system? if that coupler is after the afm you already know whats wrong fix it, use ductape to make the pipe fatter so you can seal it.

a clogged filter would make you run lean might as well toss a walbro on her, I'd sell you my other one but shipping would kill the low price lol.

[kas14slider]

leak test your system? if that coupler is after the afm you already know whats wrong fix it, use ductape to make the pipe fatter so you can seal it.

a clogged filter would make you run lean might as well toss a walbro on her, I'd sell you my other one but shipping would kill the low price lol.

It has a a walbro pump on it already that is only a few months old. That's why it would really piss me off if my fuel pump died. I guess I could try doing the fuel filter.I need to get a fuel pressure gauge or something.

Anyone know where I can get a good adjustable fpr with a gauge. I was looking at the magan racing one and heard mixed reviews.

[Florida240sx]

I got MR fpr no problems. Got to get your fuel rail adapter though.You checked your sysem for vaccum leaks? Just sounds like a leak to me. I've popped off many IC pipes. Check all your connections on the safc, mainly power, ground and the air flow signal, everythign else just taps the signal.

[kas14slider]

I got MR fpr no problems. Got to get your fuel rail adapter though.You checked your sysem for vaccum leaks? Just sounds like a leak to me. I've popped off many IC pipes. Check all your connections on the safc, mainly power, ground and the air flow signal, everythign else just taps the signal.

Can you tell me where I can get this fuel rail adapter please. And where is a website I can get this MR fpr from? I was trying to look for some but I couldn't find any adapters.

Also, if I were to just get a gauge, which fuel line do I have to tap to get my fuel pressure reading? There are a several fuel lines and I am confused as to which one you need to tap into

Also, my friend has a crappy e-bay fpr with a built in gauge that he is not using. I was just gonna throw that on to check the fuel pressure. What do I need to install it, do I need that adapter?
Modified by kas14slider at 12:34 AM 9/29/2007

[Florida240sx]

Do this for me. Disconnect the air in and air out plugs and hook the factory line back together. She what happens. That way we can eliminate the safc as the problem. n60 mafs and 370s are suppose to cancel each other out.If you installed your safc corretly then all you need to do is unplug unplug and thne plug back. You can leave the other wires hooked up

[ghx407]

To check your fuel pressure install the fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the injectors. If you're installing an FPR with gauge, remove the stock FPR, replace it with the fuel rail adapter, and install the FPR with gauge after it.

[neverlift]

no, you check it after the rail on the return side, ka uses a return regulator system.

megan kit or ebay(its the same friggin thing) afpr is just fine for 3 years 2 on walbro most of its life at above 60psi. The adapter that comes in the kit WILL work, you need to buy an oring to seal the thing is all, worked on my e and my de rails.

yeah what florida said n60 and 370 cancel out eachother....

[ghx407]

From what I understand, you can do either of these:

fuel filter----->FP gauge------>injectors------>FPR------->return line

fuel filter----->injectors------>FP gauge------>FPR------->return line

fuel filter------>injectors------->FPR/gauge------->return line

But the ones below won't work:

fuel filter----->injectors------>FPR------>FP gauge-------->return line

fuel filter------>injectors------>FPR------>return line------>FP gauge

[kas14slider]

From what I understand, you can do either of these:

fuel filter----->FP gauge------>injectors------>FPR------->return line

fuel filter----->injectors------>FP gauge------>FPR------->return line

fuel filter------>injectors------->FPR/gauge------->return line

But the ones below won't work:

fuel filter----->injectors------>FPR------>FP gauge-------->return line

fuel filter------>injectors------>FPR------>return line------>FP gauge

So if I was to install a gauge I would do it on the return line?

And here is a pic of my engine, is the line I circled in red the fuel return or is it the line circled in green.

[neverlift]

think of it like this filter=feedregulator=return

so the green one

[ghx407]

If you're splicing the FP gauge into the stock setup (as pictured), install the gauge in the red lines. If you install it in the green(return) lines you'll be measuring the pressure of the fuel that's going back to the tank.

You want to measure the pressure of the fuel that's feeding the injectors, so whatever your setup, the gauge needs to be before the pressure regulator in the fuel's path. Otherwise, you're just monitoring the pressure of fuel that has bypassed the injectors and the regulator and is on it's way back to the tank; it would be analogous to measuring the boost pressure of your exhaust or measuring the oil pressure on your turbo's oil drain line.

[kas14slider]

If you're splicing the FP gauge into the stock setup (as pictured), install the gauge in the red lines. If you install it in the green(return) lines you'll be measuring the pressure of the fuel that's going back to the tank.

You want to measure the pressure of the fuel that's feeding the injectors, so whatever your setup, the gauge needs to be before the pressure regulator in the fuel's path. Otherwise, you're just monitoring the pressure of fuel that has bypassed the injectors and the regulator and is on it's way back to the tank; it would be analogous to measuring the boost pressure of your exhaust or measuring the oil pressure on your turbo's oil drain line.

So, if it's before the fpr, then how do I know if my stock fpr went bad? What should the pressure be after the fpr?

[neverlift]

I may be wrong..... I can admit it . I'm used to having the fpr on the return line and adjusting my rail fuel pressure via the return line....

[ZiG]

Can you tune accel enrighments with a safc? If so, then try turning them up a fair bit.

also check the readings on your tps with a multimeter to make sure they're int eh right ballpark.

[eazye2000]

I also got to thinking about the TPS after a bit of pondering.

Check that with a multi-meter. See what you come up with. What you are looking for, I don't know.. lol I think something like 0.145 volts at idle, or no throttle.. And upwards of 4.5 volts at wide open throttle. You should be able to do this with the key on, not running. Or just look at the TPS screen/settings on the SAFC.

Yes/No?

[spooled240]

Do this for me. Disconnect the air in and air out plugs and hook the factory line back together. She what happens. That way we can eliminate the safc as the problem. n60 mafs and 370s are suppose to cancel each other out.If you installed your safc corretly then all you need to do is unplug unplug and thne plug back. You can leave the other wires hooked up

Did you try this? Because if anything, it seems as though your safc is not working, since you said the fuel pump is almost brand new..I would change the fuel filter for the heck of it, they're like 4 bucks.