Post by
Cpt_Impossible »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/cpt-impossible-u43114.html
Wed Jan 03, 2007 8:01 pm
K, I did some more testing. The only thing I have added thats constantly wired is the e-fans and I ruled that out. If I take out the inline fuse it does no good.
I was curious if it was the starter because the way I see it, it has to be something somewhat strong to drain the optima. I disconnected the starter switch wire and the battery to the starter leaving just the battery wires foing to the alt. I redo the removing the terminal test and still get "1"
I removed the alternator wires fromt he battery leavign nothing but the cable itself and still got "1" So that test isnt helping me any either my multimeter is messed up on that setting or I am not using it correctly. I put it all back on and retested the 3 previously mentioned large amp fuses and found that on or off it didnt mattter I get "1 no matter what I do.
So the conclusion I have come to is that the only way to check any change is:A) wait a few minutes to see if voltage goes downB) Plug everythign back in and unplug one by one until the voltage goes back up.
WHAT I FOUND IS....
With everything else plugged in and I mean every fuse and relay back in place. If I take out the "ENG Control" fuse (25A) The voltage startes going up. If I remove that fuse, the voltage goes back down, more rapidly this time, about .01volts per 30 seconds. IIRC this fuse is the ECU. Can someone confirm this? This would suggest to me that maybe my ECU is broken or something plugged in to my ecu is broken. Im thinking it must be the ECU itself or an ECU power is grounded or something because otherwise I think having all of the fuses removed other than this would solve the problem. The things that the ECU controls the power to it controls as the switch, not as the power source.
Any advice? I dont happen to have an extra RB20 ECU on hand at the time.