PLEASE HELP!! 99 QX4 completely died on me . K.S. sensor??

[QX4Marsh]

Hello, I recently had my 99 QX4 start idling very rough at idle for a week which eventually led to not running at all. I towed it home and borrowed a obd2 codereader from a friend and I ran a code test which gave me a code P0325 Knock Sensor and P0120 Throttle position sensor. I researched and found the easiest and cheapest solution for the Knock Sensor was wiring in resistors inline to equal up to 560k, I went to radio shack and bought resistors and wired them in just like the write-up said . The vehicle started immediately but the code didnt go away. With the vehicle running I proceeded to drive it for the last 4 months, still having the codes bc it is my only means of transportation. It had a small miss while at idle and transmission was shifting funny between 1st and 2nd but still ran decently. I noticed my Ignition timing was off and adjusted to factory setting which helped the missing but didnt help trans. shifting... Four months go by, still running fine and then last week it starts running terrible, missing and hesitating at lower rpms till eventually it stopped running all together. I figured the TPS had finally given out on me and this was my problem. Pick up TPS and install and truck doesnt start so I ran another code test which is still giving the K.S. P0325 code but NO TPS sensor code which is good meaning new TPS is functioning. But bad news is there is a new code, a P1336 (cks) Camshaft Position sensor code. I located the sensor and went to parts store picked up new sensor and installed properely making sure i didnt damage wires or connector. The truck still doesnt start and still has both P0325 and P1336 codes coming up. Please help if u have any information for me. I am full time college student and work fulltime and dont have much money to spend, so really the only option i have is fixing it myself! Thanks alot and any help or knowledge would be greatly appreciated !

[ARKQX33V6]

Money and time are the issues, so try to find the problem, from reading your post:
Examine the timing by setting the #1 cylinder at TDC and verify the distributor is facing #1. This will tell you if the timing belt and distributor are able to lign up.

transmission will have shifting problems if TPS sensor(s) are off kilter by not reading because of a faulty connection.

If you do have bad sensors Knock, for example the work around can play havoc with the engine by connectors opening up on you plus the heat will alter the resistivity of cheap carbon resistors.

Your cams needs to be verified, it sounds like the sensor picked up a problem and now at the very least you need to see if the timing is accurate both sides of a V engine. The non start issue may be a shift of valve operation because a cam, timing belt may be off.

How many miles on this vehicle, and have the belts been changed, the oil regularly changed because the difficulties you are expressing sounds like a car that gets little attention.

[QX4Marsh]

The vehicle has jus hit 203,000. I bought the vehicle in 09 with 123,000 and since then i have changed both belts, about 6 differents hoses including radiator and heater hoses, new radiator, new alternator, which all of these were installed by me in my driveway, also i change my own oil, which i change every 4000 miles and have only used Valvoline maxlife since day one and always use a k&n oil filter and have had a k&n filter in since day one which i recharge as schelduled. I try to keep the vehicle up as good as possible.
Today will be the first day i can get to work on the truck. Im gonna start first with the timing... How is it possible to adjust the ign. timing without the vehicle being able to run. or is it?

[Towncivilian]

K&N oil filters are nothing more than rebranded Mobil 1 filters with the nut thing on the bottom. Use Mobil1 filters to save a few bucks if you want to stick with them.

Have you ever changed the timing belt?

[QX4Marsh]

Also im gonna go to Radioshack and see if they have a better type of resistor for that Knock sensor. One that could stand more heat. Do you know of another type that i could use?? Thanks again

[QX4Marsh]

Man i jus get the k&n filters bc at the oriellys in my town they seem to go on sale alot and always are plentiful. Maybe bc of the small town i live in they do not sell as good. But yea basically thats only reason i pick those up. Not for the name. I was jus letting the fellow before know that i do keep up and maintain my vehicle even tho my financial situation is not the greatest.

[QX4Marsh]

And no never changed timing belt. Fellow i bought it from claimed it had been changed but you never know, and havent taken the time ti find out. Only way to find out is to take cover off and examine myself, right??

[Towncivilian]

Then stick with the K&N filters, they should be fine. In my opinion, I'd avoid the oiled air filters since they can leave an oily film on the MAF sensor which would cause you to clean the sensor more often than with a paper element.

The timing belt is supposed to be changed every 105k miles, so it's been about 80k assuming the timing belt was changed around 123k. It might be wise to take a look at it regardless.

Check under the distributor cap for dust or dirt buildup, this can interfere with the LED that controls timing.

[QX4Marsh]

I checked the Distrib first bc my father suggested that was the problem. It is as clean as a whistle. i checked it aagin today and it was fine. also moved distributor slightly and got Q to start. Ran for ab 1 to 2 min and choked until cut off. Now wont start back. Also It looks like alot of stuff has to come out before even thinkin ab gettin to my timing belt. I know the fan shroud, radiatior and some other stuff have to come out at least to get to it. Is there a link for timing belt replacement?

[ARKQX33V6]

QX4Marsh, the operation of the engine and then a seemingly choked shut down could be timing is off.

You moved the distributor and thus the timing is likely to be mal-adjusted. You can not get it started so,
Charge the battery
When charged, try aligning the distributor rotor to #1 position then see statically the position of the timing marks on the flywheel damper are anywhere near the alignment mark. If so your timing belt is still attached, but with mileage that you indicate you are on borrowed time with that timing belt.

The distributor may look clean but at that mileage if it was never blown out or disassembled the LED and receiver will have a haze of crap over them and the emitting light may be a weak spot.

The slotted wheel inside may be covered with dust.

Your ignition system is still working, but your power transistor may be failing.

When you adjusted the distributor was the engine still cold? If yes, check the idle air controller, it may be fouled as is everything to do with recirculating exhaust, by-pass air and throttle condition.

You need to verify 1 thing at a time and progress until all things are verified. Remember that if the timing belt is worn or stretched the cams will be off, thus the valves will be off. If the timing is off more than a cog on the belt the motor an interference fit design can be catastrophically damaged with punched pistons, bent valves and a very large repair bill even if you do the labour.

It sounds as if this motor is heading towards failure according to your posts and caution is needed to possibly stop any further damage, so be very careful and make sure that the timing has not been upset to enable internal collisions.

[QX4Marsh]

Sorry took so long to get back. How do I set the timing to #1 with the truck not running. I mean how can i tell without the timing light. I know its not complicated, i jus dont understand
.

[ARKQX33V6]

You did move the distributor!?
Can you put it back to where it was? Or were you think it was? If you can, before doing anything.....
Take an easily seen marker and mark the distributor near the engine and also mark the engine. Now the marks are aligned to show where the distributor is located. You may have to rotate the distributor shaft either way to correct timing.

Take cap off distributor.
The rotor inside points to each cylinder and you need to know the firing order and follow the spark plug wires, especially #1. Know which is # 1 wire to #1 plug and follow into the distributor cap #1 and know where it is inside so the rotor points to it.

You must keep the distributor base fixed before you know #1, then you must turn engine over to #1 with #1 cylinder at the compression stroke. You may have to rotate engine so distributor aligns again to #1 because you may not be on compression but exhaust stroke. The relationship of the rotor in the distributor is not a 1:1 relationship to the engine.

The rotation of the engine can be done by the starter or by hand on the crank with a socket and extension but only turn clockwise. A jumper on the control side is the best way to operate the starter from in front of the vehicle and this by-passes the ignition system. Because the key ignition switch is off. DO NOT RUN/START CAR WITH IGNITION SYSTEM ABLE TO BE ENGAGED. High ignition voltage will damage things if distributor cap is off, because there is no path for this high voltage, you must DISCONNECT THE PRIMARY TO THE IGNITION. A by-pass jumper switch and cable set up connects to the starter control circuit and does not engage the ignition but only the starter via its control circuit. You must understand how to do this.

When the timing is correct statically when #1 cylinder is at top dead center #1 distributor post is at fire to the #1 plug so the rotor must point at that #1 position.

Dynamically while the engine is moving the timing mark on the damper of the main crank in comparison will be off slightly because the firing happens during motion and electrical motion is much faster than mechanical motion.

When you time statically you should get things lined up to the point that you can see the engine while stopped is at #1 top dead center and that the distributor is also aligned to fire # 1 spark plug.

Statically = stopped
Dynamically = on the move

DO NOT ADJUST OR MODIFY ANYTHING IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND. If you are still confused DO NOT TOUCH your engine until understanding the process. See a qualified mechanic and let them show you.

[QX4Marsh]

Ok so i finally found some metal film resistors and soldered them up and tested them, and finally no knock sensor code!! That is a quick fix till i can replace it or do the maxima harness relocation. Also went to parts store and picked up another new crankshaft position sensor thinkin that the 1st one i had purchased was bad. bc i was still getting code. I installed the new crank sensor and then cleared codes. all codes went away except the p1336 Crankshaft position sensor still coming back. dk why? Also i know there i installed the new TPS and i think there is a learing process for that but havent had the vehicle started long enough to do that. so maybe that and the Ign timing being off is my problem. i hope...tomoro i will try to set timing and get back to you. Thank you for the knowledge and Thank you so much for your help!!!

[ARKQX33V6]

For your own peace of mind mark that distributor as it sits before moving it then play all you want.