PLEASE help, I need my car back, electrical issue on s13 ka24e....

[skatermatt180]

OK, here it goes...maybe someone can help.

I just did a complete rebuild of my engine and did a 5 speed swap. I need some help with the wiring.......here is a list of everything that works:1. The radio2. The headLAMPS3. The clock dash4. The dome light

Now pretty much everything else doesn't work...1. The Headlight MOTORS2. The Horn3. The Starter...Ill I hear is the click of the relay.4. The Fan5. My lights on my dash (includes all dimmer light and check engine lights etc.)6. Brake lights7. hazards and blinkers8. the distinct DING sound Ive fallen in love with 9. Window Motors10. Antenna Motor11. i think my side mirror adj motors don't work either.

Ive checked Fuses, and Some relays....I don't think its possible none of these things work because all the relays went bad....Is there some sort of SOMETHING that would cause all this to happen? I thought I put all of it together right...obviously not. The radio is ran straight to my battery btw. There is a small black wire on my harness I can't figure out where it goes. I know its ground obviously because it's black. I don't know where to put it, it hangs near the alternator.

If anyone can think of anything...please let me know!!

[vancouverbc]

Your starter problem is probably a problem on its own. Its clicking so your ignition switch has power. Sounds like the solenoid is getting power. There is a line directly from the battery to the solenoid which gives power to the starter motor. check for that.also check resistance between negative battery post and engine chasis to check ground.

[skatermatt180]

Ok, I should have mentioned this. I can get the motor to turn over if I bypass the switch on the silinoid and bridge it with a screwdriver. So my positive and ground are OK with the starter. But, I don't get ignition. Keep in mind, my alternator is disconnected, meaning it doesnt have a belt on it. Does the spark come from the alternator?

[skatermatt180]

ok, well I did that to check to see if my starter worked. And it does, so the clicking isnt the silinoid. Could it be a relay...I guess ill try and trace it later.

[vancouverbc]

do you have the two white positive wires at the positive terminal of battery plugged in? there is a red plastic plug on postive termnal . two white wires plug in there. one is for starter.
Modified by vancouverbc at 3:05 PM 5/16/2007

[skatermatt180]

Yes, I didnt take those apart during uninstall of the engine. The silinoid has power, the big wire running to it measures correctly....if im not mistaken there is a plug off the silinoid that goes to your wiring harness and that goes to the switch in your ignition when you turn the key...it completes the circuit...right? well, I can take 12 volts off of the big wire and link it to the switch wire and I get it to crank. But the problem is that switch I think. Any suggestions?

Thanks for you help btw.

[vancouverbc]

Yes, I didnt take those apart during uninstall of the engine. The silinoid has power, the big wire running to it measures correctly....if im not mistaken there is a plug off the silinoid that goes to your wiring harness and that goes to the switch in your ignition when you turn the key...it completes the circuit...right? well, I can take 12 volts off of the big wire and link it to the switch wire and I get it to crank. But the problem is that switch I think. Any suggestions?

Thanks for you help btw.

The plug off the solenoid is 12v+ coming in from the ignition switch. This powers the solenoid. There is a second wire coming directly from postive of battery that also connects to solenoid area. This second positive is needed to power the starter motor. It sounds like this second positive is disconnected somewhere. If it is plugged in at battery , it must be unplugged somewhere else. This might also be causing your horn and windows not to have power.

[skatermatt180]

ok, when I get home in about 30 min, Ill check it out and tell you. Thanks for the help!

[skatermatt180]

I checked it and everything is hooked up correctly. Hmm, I started one trace with the horn. I got to the relays and took the relay off and stuck a voltometer on it and got nothing when the horn was pressed, so is there anything before that that could shoprt out at all? Im trying to trace it but its hard. Any advice would be helpful.

thanks

[vancouverbc]

Does the 10 amp horn fuse have power? Its in the relay box by battery. I think it gets its power from the grey fuse link. is the grey fuse link blown? Is there power at the grey fuse link(75a)?

zerothread?id=231424

[skatermatt180]

I dont know about those things about the horn yet, have to check when I get back home tonight. But I hooked a multimeter to the injector connector and Im not getting any fuel injection signal from the ecu during startup. My ignition works now though. Im just full of problems.
Modified by skatermatt180 at 10:52 AM 5/17/2007

[skatermatt180]

And I also checked my starter wiring.... Looks like the big white wire going to it is constantly hot and the plug wire is not. I have to bridge the white wire to the connector for it to turn over.

[vancouverbc]

And I also checked my starter wiring.... Looks like the big white wire going to it is constantly hot and the plug wire is not. I have to bridge the white wire to the connector for it to turn over.

the 12v+ constant wire is right. clicking solenoid when you turn key means, the solenoid is getting 12v+ from ignition. you can get the starter to turn over so the solenoid is working to engage engine and starter motor is working. It must be problem with connecteion between starter and solenoid or something else right there at the starter unit.

[vancouverbc]

I dont know about those things about the horn yet, have to check when I get back home tonight. But I hooked a multimeter to the injector connector and Im not getting any fuel injection signal from the ecu during startup. My ignition works now though. Im just full of problems.

Modified by skatermatt180 at 10:52 AM 5/17/2007

the injectors should have constant 12v+ in red wire and a ground signal from computer when it wants injectors on.

[skatermatt180]

Im getting the 12v constant from the hot wire on the injector, but the ground isnt turning on and off during start up like normal. Maybe it has to do with the same problem Im having. Maybe its a ground problem. The computer is grounding it, but it has nowhere to ground to. The silinoid isnt clicking over, all I hear is the clicking of the relay as I turn the key to start.

[vancouverbc]

Starter: I misunderstood. I thought the wire from the ignition was delivering 12v+ to solenoid when you turned key to start. The ignition line to the starter is different for auto and 5speed. You have an interlock relay(by battery) and switch(on clutch pedal) for 5speed. If you have the interlock relay clicking you must be pretty close to having it right. You just need the connection from interlock relay to solenoid to be right.(so, starter problem is likely unrelated to other problems)

injectors: The computer supplies the ground. The injectors wont be grounded by themselves. The computer is what is grounded. Id try to fix other problems first. Why is 12v+ not getting to horn? I assume it it 12v+ that it is lacking. that would be the same reason your windows dont operate.

[skatermatt180]

injectors: The computer supplies the ground. The injectors wont be grounded by themselves. The computer is what is grounded. Id try to fix other problems first. Why is 12v+ not getting to horn? I assume it it 12v+ that it is lacking. that would be the same reason your windows dont operate.

You are correct in that. I have been doing some testing around and the ground is GOOD. The 12v is what missing in the cab for some reason??? I looked and it seems like there is a white 12v wire going to the cab. The ECU gets power because my fuel air controller is turning on. How does the cab get power? Do you know? Is is a common 12v that everything runs off of in there? If so, where is it routed so that I can find it. I checked the horn btw, and it gets a little .02v at the fuse and nothing at the relay. So it has to be a send issue from the battery to the common 12v that everything runs off of, if there is something like that. There are like 4 wires that come off the pos of the battery. On is for alt, one is for starter, and the other 2 I have no idea. If you could fill me in that would help a lot!

I also have a feeling, and correct me if im wrong, that the stater relay at the key has a constant 12v going to it. That could be whats going wrong maybe?? I get a click of the relay near the air box when I turn the key. Thats it. So maybe that 12v isnt going to it at all because there is nothing to go to it. do other devices in the cab link to it.Thanks

[vancouverbc]

Horn: You lack 12v+. 12v+ starts at positive post of battery and goes to alternator fuse (white 75 amp).( Alternator fuse link is in same relay box as horn fuse). Then ,12v+ goes to horn fuse. Check to see if the alternator fuse link is blown(white 75amp). This is what is causing most of your problems. if not blown, does it have power?

no power in cab: the power is not even getting to 10 amp horn fuse. one foot from battery. check the alternator fuse and wiring between battery and relay box. the ignition switch is getting power but that is a different circuit.

starter/ignition: Your ignition switch is getting power. it is on different circuit from horn/windows. if a relay is clicking near the air box, it is likelythe n&p or inhibitor relay. The inhbitor relay is for automatics. To summarize: 12v+ is supplied constantly to ignition switch. You turn key to start and this sends 12v+ to the starter(via inhibitor relay and inhibitor switch) for as long as key is turned. I dont know if you are keeping the inhibitor relay or switch in circuit after conversion. The standard has an interlock relay and switch instead. regardless, all you are doing is sending 12v+ to starter solenoid when key turned to start. refer to conversion guide as to what remnants of automatic circuit you keep.

How are you testing for 12volts at horn fuse? should be one probe on ground and one probe on one side of fuse.

Modified by vancouverbc at 1:38 PM 5/18/2007
Modified by vancouverbc at 2:16 PM 5/18/2007

[skatermatt180]

How are you testing for 12volts at horn fuse? should be one probe on ground and one probe on one side of fuse.

Yes I am doing it that way. Thanks for all the info! Ill check the fuse for the alternator when I get home tonight.

The inhibitor relay....is that the same as the inhibitor switch?

[vancouverbc]

inhibitor switch and inhibitor relay entirely different. inhibitor relay is in relay box by air filter. I dont know the details of converting auto to 5speed. I dont know the automatic start circuit either. However, all you need is a line from ignition swtich start to starter solenod. you may want a clutch interlock switch for safety. car wont start unless you depress clutch.

[skatermatt180]

I have the clutch switch on the pedal, so I just wire it into my ignition wire?

[vancouverbc]

I have the clutch switch on the pedal, so I just wire it into my ignition wire?

I'm not sure how they do the auto to standard conversion. On a normal standard, depressing the clutch just sends a ground to the interlock relay.This energizes relay and closes the switch in relay and sends power to starter.

Just go by how they said to do it in the conversion guide.

[skatermatt180]

OK! I figured it out. It WAS the fuse for the alternator....now I need to figure out why the starter wont work with the key....Thank you so much for your help!

[skatermatt180]

Got it to work with the key, something was loose.

[vancouverbc]

good news:)