Please help i hate my 240sx

[Someone49]

Ok here is some basic info on my 240It is a 92 se hatch

Mostly bolt on's header,exhaust,intake,

The background on the problem i have goes like this.

One weekend going to auto-x i overd heated the car on the highway... wtf so i pulled off and popled the hood and the top radiator hose had come of.. So i put it back on filled it back up with coolant let it cool for bout and hour. Drove it home it was fine but missed auto-x. The next weekn sitting in the car my gf said it smelled the same smell it did when i over heated it. So i got out and sure enuff their was a crack in the rad right by top hose. I was able to put some Quicksteel on it for a temp fix untill i got my new radiator. I orderd a koyo oem speck rad with plastic ends. seemed little bigger than oem but not much. Put the new radiator in and still overheating radomly weird.... so i thought it was thermostat put that in still never ran right over heating peroticly. So the last thing i could do was the water pump wich i did yesterday and i filled the coolant back up exactly like the fsm said with the air bleed valve open to let air escape wich i thougth what i had been doing wrong all along . But apprently not because after bout 5 min diving it overheated. I am really stuck and dont know where to go as my next step i have replaced every thing in the system.. i dont see what their is left to do..

Please help

THanks ~ANthony

Edit: i have bout 140k mikes on my ka and i am in houston tx

[NISTECH]

You probably still do have air in the system. It is a pain to bleed the system and the service manual is no help with that. You need to raise the front of the car as high as safely posible. Do the bleeding proceure you did till no more air comes out of the bleeder hole. put the screw back in. Use one of those special bleeder funnels while doing this. Car is still in the air. Fill the funnel to about half full. turn the heater on full hot full fan speed. start the car and let it run for 20 mins or so. Occasional snaping the throttle from idle to around 5k rpms, just quick romps will do, no need to slowly increase it or anything just romp it occasionally. once you see steam coming out of the funnel its time to cap it off and take it for a run.

[Someone49]

You probably still do have air in the system. It is a pain to bleed the system and the service manual is no help with that. You need to raise the front of the car as high as safely posible. Do the bleeding proceure you did till no more air comes out of the bleeder hole. put the screw back in. Use one of those special bleeder funnels while doing this. Car is still in the air. Fill the funnel to about half full. turn the heater on full hot full fan speed. start the car and let it run for 20 mins or so. Occasional snaping the throttle from idle to around 5k rpms, just quick romps will do, no need to slowly increase it or anything just romp it occasionally. once you see steam coming out of the funnel its time to cap it off and take it for a run.

The bleeding procedure u are refering to could you please go more indepth in to this please. I wana make sure i am doing this properly and where can i get one of these special bleeder funnel??

Thanks,

Anthony

[NISTECH]

Alot of local parts houses carry them. Thats preety specific as far as I can get. Front of car up highpoor coolant till a steady stream flows from bleeder screwput screw back instart car with heater on full blastfill funnel half wayrev car several times over a 20 min period.watch for steam from funnel.put radiator cap back ondrive car.

[Someone49]

well i have called the 3 main auto parts store around here and they are like bleeder funnel... u should not have air in you cooling system.. NO****. So i dont know where i can get one??

[NISTECH]

Do you have an autozone around there or kragens/shucks? they both carry them here. they are yellow or red in color about 8 inch in diameter and about 8 inch deep with attachments to attach it where the radiator cap goes.

[Someone49]

Alot of local parts houses carry them. Thats preety specific as far as I can get. Front of car up highpoor coolant till a steady stream flows from bleeder screwput screw back instart car with heater on full blastfill funnel half wayrev car several times over a 20 min period.watch for steam from funnel.put radiator cap back ondrive car.

I just cut my funnel to fit in the rad and fille it half way up and started the car it just started to warm up and over flow as the coolnat expanded... kinda made a big mess and i didnt get any air bubbles.. So i let that go on for long enuff, so i turned the car off and lowerd it. filled it back up with coolant and. drove offer. wow it overheated again.. this sux.

btw is this ur job?
Modified by Someone49 at 6:07 PM 6/19/2005

[NISTECH]

that means air pocket in system. it should rise but not to the point it starts bubbling over the edge of the funnel. make sure you got the car up when you do this. when it starts rising in the funnel give it a quick throttle romp to try to push the air through.

[s13sucksalot]

I had the same problem with my car. Took me FOREVER to figure out. What you need to do (if you have access to an air compressor) is drain the system of water, pull the upper radiator hose off the block, then pull the hoses going to/from the heater core on the firewall. One hose goes straight into the block, and the other goes into some other part of the cooling system. Set the compressor to as low a setting as possible (luckily the one i had sucked and we could turn it down to like 5 psi) and slowly start shooting air into the block from the line going to the heater core. When i did this on mine, it gurgled sputtered then something broke loose and then water just started shooting out of the block. We think someone may have put some stop leak in the system when the radiator started to leak (before i got the car). The next step would be to do the same into the heater core. Some people would start SCREAMING at me at this point. As long as you are VERY careful and slowly apply pressure, you shouldn't have to worry about the core blowing up inside your car. What this is doing is checking for flow through your system. Once this is completed, do as nistech was saying and raise the front end of the car as high as possible and fill the system. I would also reccomend using water the first time (saves $$!). Start the car and let it warm up with the radiator cap off. Yes, there will be some spillage. After the thermostat pops open, look inside the radiator to see if the water is flowing. It should look like a little river. Another thing you should do, and i don't think it would be an issue b/c it's new, is check your radiator for flow. Pull the top and bottom hoses and put a water hose in the top at full blast. Check to see if the same amount of water is coming out the bottom as is going in the top. Hope this was helpful. Good luck!

[NISTECH]

I just cut my funnel to fit in the rad and fille it half way up and started the car it just started to warm up and over flow as the coolnat expanded... kinda made a big mess and i didnt get any air bubbles.. So i let that go on for long enuff, so i turned the car off and lowerd it. filled it back up with coolant and. drove offer. wow it overheated again.. this sux.

btw is this ur job?

Modified by Someone49 at 6:07 PM 6/19/2005

Do I sence a bit of sarcasim in your post?Yes I do It for a living. Have been working on Nissans for the past 10yrs at a dealer. The 240 is a total pain in the *** to bleed the air out of the system as well as the Quest. I have that funnel in my tool box but hardly use it anymore as we have something even better that I know the auto parts store wont carry. It pulls a complete vaccum on the system and holds it. I then put a tube in a container of coolant premix and suck coolant into the system till all the space is filled with coolant. Much easier then perfroming the old proceedure in which I am telling you to do. If you dont like my answers just say the word and I will leave you on your own to fend for yourself K??

[navysnail]

you are using the bleeder screw right?

[Fenvy]

I think NISTECH is a big daddy here so you probably want to be nicer to him.

[Someone49]

sorry for being some what of a smart ***.. i am fedup with this thing ... and the whole job question was someting i was just wondering i wasing being smartass bout that. I just got a real bleeder funnel and will try this again onece my gar gets out of the shop... My alternator went out in the mist of all this. Its pretty agervating. Thanks for all you help, i will let you know how it goes. Firestone was telling me that its a possiblity that i have apinhole in my head i hope thats not the case but they said they would check out the cooling system after the alternator is in for free so we will see what happens. thanks again

[NISTECH]

Sorry to hear your alt dumped on you. Its awful generous of them to offer to test it for you. Hopefully they test it with a block check tester. Best way to tell if a head gasket is goin out. Question about your T-stat. did it have a small bleader hole at the top of it? If thats not there it would make the bleading procedure 100times worse if doable at all.

[Someone49]

I am pretty sure it did it was from nissan not autozone. I looke like a little pin that could move in and out of the whole

[NISTECH]

Did you position that hole at the top of the opening?

[Someone49]

i put it just like the one i replaced was tilted a lil but at the top

[NISTECH]

your ok there then. this will allow the air to purge out as long as you didnt use to much silicone and plug that hole up. Did they test your cooling system yet?

[Someone49]

all they did was replace the radiator cap and for some reason that worked for like a day and then it went back to the same old ****.

[Someone49]

OK here is some updated news, i took it to the shop and here is what they did pressure tested the system all is good. From that we were thinking that it was the headgasket so they got it hot and did all the headgasket test and it is all good. So then the did a vacume flush that gets the air out and they got a big glup of air out but it still overheated, so then they did it again, sill overheating. sooo i dono where elce to go from here they said they would replace the thermo for free or some **** so i might get them to do that tomarrow, but it was doing this before i replaced the 1st one and still is doing the same thing so i dont see what diffentence this could make... i dono know where to go from here.BAHHH!!!! help

[NISTECH]

Definitly an odd problem your having here. I am wondering if your water pump impellers are coming apart or disolved and not circulating the coolant. Did you have a rusty cooling system prior to this event?

[Someone49]

I have bran new nissan water pump and i have never seen rust in cooling system