please help before I burn this piece of garbage!

[billygeg]

I am about ready to take pleasure in buying the hottest burning liquid and burning this thing while roasting marshmellows on it! I am really beginning to hate it that much! If anyone can help please I can use the help! I am at the end of my rope with it. Heres my story...The car is a 01 maxima se ann edition with 103,000 miles. Nice looking car but nothing but problems since I got it. Here we go. The car was running fine with no codes. About 4 months ago now the ses light came on and the car was not maintaining idle at startup. I would have too hold the gas down slightly to keep it running otherwise it would stall. Once I let it warm for about 10 seconds it would run but at low rpm...No real problem there. I wanted to get the SES light taken care of so had the codes scanned and advanced auto. Code came up for a IAC...Replaced the IAC, No longer needed to warm the car up to keep it running because the car now idles at 1500 rpm and bounces up and down to about 2000 rpm repeatedly. Replaced it again thinking maybe I got a bad one, Still did the same thing. When I drive it it doesnt do it just when in Neutral or park. Since the IAC, I have replaced the TPS, Mass air flow and water temp sensor to no avail! now I am hearing ecu! On top of that the car now (atleast once a day or maybe twice) has the TCS and slip lights on when I start it. If I drive it like this the car farts, sputters, jumps, and starts to smell like eggs..I have to then shut the car off and turn it on anywhere from 2 to 10 times before this goes away..I think the car is possessed! Hands down worst car I ever ever bought! I read other posts on maxima.org (horrible site by the way, Sorry dont mean to offend anyone) and I read posts people put up talking about burnt computers from bad IAC sensors...If this is the way nissan is making money its a very bad move because I know I will Never buy another nissan ever! Anyway, Before I totally go off my rocker and go fire happy I would really appreciate it if someoe can point me in the right direction here. I really need the car to run right atleast till I can get rid of it and buy something else. We just lost our Jimmy to a blown head gasket (wish I fixed it now) and cant afford to buy another car at this point.

Thanks a million!Bill

[loystock]

Welcome to NICO. Your problems could have been resolved had you come to NICO earlier.

If you think you have a garbage, better dispose it. If you want to fix the car, then we can help you.

The Maximas/I30s are reliable cars and have one of the best engines (VQ30). Unless you are the original owner of the 01 Maxima, it would be unfair to judge it because of the problems you are having right now. Maybe the previous owner(s) neglected or even abused it and then disposed it when problems have accumulated.

You are correct in replacing the IACV. However, the driver (amplifier) for the IACV is inside the ECU so if the problem was allowed to persist for a long time, then it's possible that the ECU (driver) may have been fried. It's also possible that something went wrong during the IACV installation that could have fried the ECU.

A new ECU is expensive but you can try eBay or other sites for a refurbished one. When a new ECU is installed, it needs reprogramming since your car is probably equipped with NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System). The unique ID in you NATS key is stored in the IMMU (NATS Immobilizer Unit) and ECU. So when the ECU is replaced, then there will be a mismatch between NATS key and ECU causing starting problems. You also need to run IAVL (Idle Air Volume Learning). Reprogramming of the ECM may be done at the dealership for @ $120. Be sure to bring all the car keys with you.

If you're lucky, the ECU may still be in good condition and you may just have a 'sticky' throttle cable. Spray WD-40 on the throttle cable where it connects to the throttle body. Try this before replacing the ECU. Now if this did not work and you got DTC 0505, you may have a fried ECU.

You may have needlessly replaced the MAF and coolant temp sensors and TPS. The MAF sensor probably just need cleaning.

The TCS-SLIP light may just be a glitch due to snow in your area. If the problem persisted, you have have a faulty wheel sensor, or other ABS/TCS components like relays and solenoid valves.

Now for the rotten egg smell - it is indicative of a failing catalytic converter. It's also possible that you have bad gas (lots of sulfur in it). The cat failure may be due to running the engine 'rich' for an extended period of time (accumulated fuel burning inside the cat). This may be due to failing O2 sensor, fuel injectors and even defective ECU. OEM cat is expensive since they contain a high percentage of precious metals (Palladium, Rhodium, etc). Aftermarket cats are cheaper but don't last long since they have less amount of precious metals inside the cat.

[billygeg]

Thank you for your response! Dont mean to sound like a psycho but it is very frustrating.. Anyway, My wife drives the car mostly and she complains that the peddle sticks and is hard to push somethimes...Do you think this can be caused by the sticky throttle cable? I will try the WD 40 thing today. The parts replaced were mostly replaced by her store, Advanced Auto. They probably never did any relearn when the IAC was replaced. Is there a relearn for that that I can do myself or do I have to bring it to the dealer. I know advanced has a computer. Can they do it for me? As for the TCS and slip lights...They only come on once or maybe twice a day. They only come on at start. If they are not on at start they do not come on. If they come on at start the car idles really bad and the car smells like eggs, But I only get that egg smell with these lights on? Thats why I am thinking maybe the ECU is fried...I'm no expert by far with these cars but it doesnt make sense to me that the traction control and slip would have anything to do with how the car is running or make the cat smell like eggs...Like I said It only smells when these lights are on. Doesnt smell otherwise.

Thanks for your help!Bill

[loystock]

Here's the link to the 2001 Maxima FSM (Factory Service Manual). Download the BR (Brake System) and EC (Engine Control System) chapters.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2001/

For IAVL (Idle Air Volume Learning) go to page EC-67 (Engine Control System Chapter)

As for the rotten egg smell, I agree that normally, illumination of the TCS OFF/SLIP lights is primarily a problem with TCS and should not result to such smell. However, the ECM (Engine Control Module a.k.a. ECU - Engine Control Unit) is connected to the TCM (Transmission Control Module) and ABS-TCS Control Unit thru a LAN (Local Area Network). If there is a LAN communication problem between TCS CU and ECM or if the engine is in Fail Safe Mode (due to problem with ECU and/or sensors), then it will trigger the TCS OFF and SLIP lights (ABS light OFF). You need to perform the built-in diagnostic available in the BR chapter (Brake System). I't's not complicated. All you need to do is connect a jumper wire between Pin #9 of the Data Link Connector (adjacent to steering column) and chassis GROUND. This will initiate the diagnostic and you can observe the SLIP light illumination/flashing to get a fault code.

Br-91 - tells you how to perform the built-in diagnostic including component locationBR-92 - tells you how to decode the result of SLIP light illumination/flashingBR-105 - this is the Malfunction Code Chart. This page is important. Look at the lower portion of the chart where it tells you the ABS light is OFF while the TCS and SLIP light are ON. Based on the fault code you have extracted from the diagnostic, it then tells you where to go. For example, Fault Code 87 (Engine in Fail Safe Mode) tells you to go yo BR-129 to continue with the troubleshooting.BR-130 onwards - gives you info about the LAN connection (TCS CU to ECM) and additional T/S info.

Based on the symptoms you have provided, looks like your ECU is fried or failing. The above diagnostics should confirm that.

Since your wife works with Advanced Auto, have them scan (OBD II) the car and get a printout of of the DTC fault codes to further help you in the problem resolution. You can also do the diagnostic yourself (no tools needed, procedure also in the EC chapter).

Again, once the ECU is replaced, you have to take the car to a dealership for reprogramming (particularly NATS). It needs connection to Nissan CONSULT. I don't think Advanced Auto has that capability.

[billygeg]

This is really pressing my patients which I have very little of! I will try to find the chapters you mentioned. Hopefully my head doesnt explode! lol...Thanks a million! Really appreciate the help..I will keep you posted.Thanks! Bill

[billygeg]

Hi again!Got all the info from the link sent. Want to do some testing and try the learing but have one question. What is the PNP switch? In the pre condition it says it has to be off...I want to make sure it is before I start and do it all wrong.Thanks! Bill

[SR Superstar]

PNP stands for Park/Neutral Position switch.

[billygeg]

Ho

PNP stands for Park/Neutral Position switch.

Ok,, Thanks, But how do I know if the PNP switch is on or off?

[loystock]

Just make sure that the shifter is in either PARK or NEUTRAL. If the switch is working, you cannot start the car if the shifter is out of Neutral/Park position (safety interlock).

[billygeg]

Just make sure that the shifter is in either PARK or NEUTRAL. If the switch is working, you cannot start the car if the shifter is out of Neutral/Park position (safety interlock).

simple enough...The abbreviations make it sound alot more complicated. Thanks alot..

Bill

[broncofan]

I have the exact problem. Did you ever figure it out?