Please critique my planned set-up
Please critique my planned set-up
Please look over my turbo set-up before I start putting it together any input would be helpful. The car is mostly a drag/daily driven car.T3 water cooled turboJGS Manifold Swain Tech coated370 Sr injectors(have)Nismo fpr(have)Walbro 255lph fuel pump(have)Z32 mafs(have)Apex-i Safc 2 MSD 6al with BTMEither 2 300zxtt intercoolers welded together or a StarionCustom bent plumbingSS oil lines and water linesI have a couple of questions though the T3 has an internal wastegate correct, could this be upgraded or and external one be used in it's place? Which would be better? Also I have been reading on here that some people are haveing problems with bov's venting to the atmosphere. Are there any problems with it being recirculated? Also to put a bov on custom pipeing you weld the flange near the throttle body hook up corresponding vaccum lines?To recirculate it you run the tubing back to the intake pipe after the mafs or back to the hot pipe going back into the intercooler or neither?Sorry for so long any help would and will be appreciatedThanks
Can't help you with all of the questions.
Most T3's (OEM ones anyway) are internally wastegated. I don't know if you can switch to externally wastegated--why would you want to? It's a bit more performance oriented, but then you have more plumbing/welding to worry about, and I've read quite a few people having trouble with boost creep just as a result of incorrect angles of dumping the wastegate back into the downpipe.
Yes, you hear quite a bit about problems associated with non-recirc BOV's, (search, there was a post a while back about recirculating it) for understandable reasons-it's air that's unaccounted for (but then again, it's not accounted for the way I have mine setup), and most engines don't like open sources like that expelling air....most problems I've heard is with stalling, but some of the electronics out there work to eliminate problems associated with vented BOV's.
My BOV (actually, a bypass valve) is recirculated. If you recirculate it most people dump the air into the turbo inlet PAST the MAFS, angled toward the inlet if at all possible. You don't NEED to have your BOV on the cold side pipe, although it seems that's the popular thing to do especially if it is a true BOV; mine is on the hot side dumped back into the inlet past the MAFS.
How much boost you planning on running? T3's aren't bad and have beautiful throttle response for daily driving, but I get pretty sick of my T3 super 60 for its lack of flow in the upper rev-range (past 5k rpm). If at all possible, go with a T3/T04E or T3/T04B, either 50 trim or 54 trim, respectively.
Hope that helped a bit.
Most T3's (OEM ones anyway) are internally wastegated. I don't know if you can switch to externally wastegated--why would you want to? It's a bit more performance oriented, but then you have more plumbing/welding to worry about, and I've read quite a few people having trouble with boost creep just as a result of incorrect angles of dumping the wastegate back into the downpipe.
Yes, you hear quite a bit about problems associated with non-recirc BOV's, (search, there was a post a while back about recirculating it) for understandable reasons-it's air that's unaccounted for (but then again, it's not accounted for the way I have mine setup), and most engines don't like open sources like that expelling air....most problems I've heard is with stalling, but some of the electronics out there work to eliminate problems associated with vented BOV's.
My BOV (actually, a bypass valve) is recirculated. If you recirculate it most people dump the air into the turbo inlet PAST the MAFS, angled toward the inlet if at all possible. You don't NEED to have your BOV on the cold side pipe, although it seems that's the popular thing to do especially if it is a true BOV; mine is on the hot side dumped back into the inlet past the MAFS.
How much boost you planning on running? T3's aren't bad and have beautiful throttle response for daily driving, but I get pretty sick of my T3 super 60 for its lack of flow in the upper rev-range (past 5k rpm). If at all possible, go with a T3/T04E or T3/T04B, either 50 trim or 54 trim, respectively.
Hope that helped a bit.
Yeah the HKS vein pressure works for vented bov iirc I would like to run about 7psi daily and close to 10 at the track. This list is just for my turbo set-up already plan on have a block built shot-peened stock rods forged pistions bal and blue-printed. Also from what I have read on here that the 370 are pushed pretty much to the limit at 10psi correct. Also the stock wastegate on a T3 is like 8psi isn't it? To raise this up some I could tread the rod some more and turn it clock-wise right? Yes you did help me about my bov issue not I just have to chose oneThanks
If I had a fully built engine, I'd be running a helluva lot more than 7 psi daily...it'd be more like 15 psi. But you're just starting with a KA-T, so 7 psi is good to start at. I wish I had the luxury of a bullet-proof engine to run as much boost as I'd like and not feel bad for thrashing the poor thing.
Invariably, you'll always want to run more boost. If I were you, since you're already upgrading the MAFS, I'd start with 440's to begin with and keep it at like 10 psi, because you will want more boost eventually, those who say they won't have never boosted before. But 370's are a good place to start while you work things out aroun 10 psi. However, you are correct, 10 psi is about the max on a T3 for 370 injectors. Supposedly they start reaching their limit at 8 psi on a larger T3/T4. But you should be good at 10 psi for the 370's. Most internally wastegated T3's (mine anyway) are adjustable from like 4-6 psi, 7 psi is probably the most (stock wastegate diaphragm, etc).
You loosen the retaining nut on the rod and screw it in (it will look counter clockwise if you're looking at it from the top). However, don't expect to get any more than 6-7 psi this way. If you want more all you need is a simple MBC; you can make one out of a needle valve, although it may be a bit inconsistent. I've fooled around with quite a few MBC setups, and I have a T off of the boost controller bleeding back into the intake....i've found it to be better than just an MBC in line from the compressor to the diaphragm.
Invariably, you'll always want to run more boost. If I were you, since you're already upgrading the MAFS, I'd start with 440's to begin with and keep it at like 10 psi, because you will want more boost eventually, those who say they won't have never boosted before. But 370's are a good place to start while you work things out aroun 10 psi. However, you are correct, 10 psi is about the max on a T3 for 370 injectors. Supposedly they start reaching their limit at 8 psi on a larger T3/T4. But you should be good at 10 psi for the 370's. Most internally wastegated T3's (mine anyway) are adjustable from like 4-6 psi, 7 psi is probably the most (stock wastegate diaphragm, etc).
You loosen the retaining nut on the rod and screw it in (it will look counter clockwise if you're looking at it from the top). However, don't expect to get any more than 6-7 psi this way. If you want more all you need is a simple MBC; you can make one out of a needle valve, although it may be a bit inconsistent. I've fooled around with quite a few MBC setups, and I have a T off of the boost controller bleeding back into the intake....i've found it to be better than just an MBC in line from the compressor to the diaphragm.