Plan A: Turbo the KA

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
project_240
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Joined: Tue Dec 17, 2002 2:30 pm

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okay guys here goes...i searched all i can but i still have some questions. i am sort of a newb, but if you bear with me i think i can learn a lot from doing this. sorry if its long, but i know that you guys know a lot more than i do...

i have a 1995 s14 auto with 105k miles on the KA, and currently so damn sick of the auto that i want a stick. now, i also want some learning experience with the KA, and i also want it to be a fast street car (daily driver with a/c, power steering and readily available parts in case anything goes wrong), so here is what i have decided to do:

i want to get another KA motor (does it have to be s14?) with a manual transmission and swap it out. research says the motor itself goes for around $400-500, and i have a friend or two at a shop that could help me out. in order to do the auto->manual, i was told i needed clutch pedal, master/slave cylinder, lines, and shifter components. those parts, if i remember correctly, should be around $250. price = $750 (500 engine 250 transmission swap).

now, that solves the problem of the automatic transmission. in the meantime with another motor, i now have something to learn on. this would also minimize downtime too. i plan on rebuilding the motor to make max 250-260 whp and then putting it back in, with the manual transmission, of course. what does it take to turn a KA with high miles (some KA's for sale, ones i have looked at are sometimes 75-100k) into something that can boost to make my goal? i was thinking a bolt on turbo kit after rebuilding, but i dont know what to do as in getting it ready for boosting (rebuilding itself). what would i have to do to it?

total price est. is up to about $4250 + ??? however much for the other stuff i need(750 for engine/transmission + 3500 for bolt on turbo kit + ??? for rebuild)

okay...are my prices correct? if i am not totally off, this looks obtainable with around $5-6k, and that is just about how much people are willing to do an SR swap around here. also gives me hands-on about the workings of the KA b/c i will be working on it with my friend. are my facts straight, as in my general idea, or is this too much for what its worth, and i should drop the whole idea and get an SR (elsewhere from where i looked).

also, does it take an experienced pro to swap out an engine with an auto to another with a manual? my friend is a mechanic, but he mainly works on hondas, but he knows way more than i do as in the general works of an engine. also, am i missing anything? btw, i am in chattanooga, TN...if anyone else wants to help me out. i will go almost anywhere for a good deal on a SR swap, rebuild, or custom turbo.

thanks in advance for the replies....

-jake


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95_240sx
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SEARCH! This has been beat to death.

Rick

SloS13
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Its so rude when people just say 'SEARCH' Im so sick of that.

project_240, ive typed up everything you need to know.. just scroll down

SEARCH! :thinker :pface

project_240
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Joined: Tue Dec 17, 2002 2:30 pm

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thanks...i appreciate that...really...it would have been better if you didnt respond at all. or...at least if you tell me to search you could point me in the right direction...links, anyone?

Structure240sx
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Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 5:04 pm

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they are right but to help u out jsut go through the entire turbo ka forum, the answers are there. for ur goal u shouldnt "need" a rebuild. get a compression test done on ur motor. if it is decent 250rwhp is no problem its only 7-8psi. and yea so search

574-240sx
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I have done the auto to manual swap in one day i believe you are missing flywheel, clutch, plate that goes in between transmission and motor, and manual cross member. I had the help of a friend and we did it in my garage on our backs with jack stands. I also have 177K+ on my engine and compression test turned out fine. It was a well taken car of auto for 173K. I also do still have to fix a tensioner problem. Nick

honda2tyte4uJDMwinna
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Everyone always says "ooo you the search button"...and while i agree to a certain extent it gets annoying. This guy had obviously done his homework and was looking for some feedback and input. Sometimes before you drop severel thousand dollars its nice to talk to like minded folk who may have gone through a similar project.

Moreover i often worry about the quality of older posts. For instance it seems as though most people were preaching the fmax kit, and now it seems nsport is in fact the way to go. I think it wouldnt be too difficult to adopt a new policy of actually giving helpful responses to those who have done their homework.

So here we go. Ka-t = sick. SR = sick. It appears as though you havent decided which one you want. So lets not turn this into a ka vs. sr thread. So we know one thing for sure, and that is you want a 5spd car. Also it seems as if this will be the 5spd you are learning on. If this is the case, this is what i would do. Buy a low mileage KA + transmission and all the needed parts to complete the 5spd swap. Swap in the 5spd transmission with the engine your car has now. Rebuild/freshen up the low-mileage engine in preparation for turbo. Once you feel comfortable with 5spd and feel that you can handle the power then its time to put in the built engine w/ turbo. And while you are learning to drive 5spd, i suggest you save lots of money and beat your NA engine to death because its fun.

Now hopefully i didnt misinterpret your post and you can already drive 5spd well cuz **** i just typed a lot of bull****. Now speaking from an SR side. Its a good engine, its fun to drive and its easy to install, especially if you are aided by a mechanic. But in the end it is your choice. Whichever route you go its bound to cost you an arm a leg and at least one kidney.

Ah crap i forgot, you should mention things like hp level and where you live (smog related, if its a concern)

Anywho good luck

project_240
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hey, thanks for the insight...yeah i know a couple things or two about driving stick...so no problem there...i hit a 14.9 in my friend's GSR with just an intake...so i think im good. as far as your plan goes, that was what i intended...now its just looking for the parts that will be a pain. for a 95 transmission swap is the ecu necessary? i keep hearing different things, since OBDII was put on cars 96 and up, i was told not to worry about it throwing a code. right now, i am leaning more towards the KA-T, just because if i blow the motor, another one costs $500, maybe less.

as for the hp goal, i say 250 whp is good enough for me, and on track occasions i would like to boost up to 275-280. i want to be safe in case i feel like being greedy... so i am looking at ross pistons 8:5:1 and maybe some connecting rods for the rebuild, but i know that parts list is wayyyy short.

smog is of no concern, because i am currently in tennessee and they dont even have inspection over here...no emissions or nothin. now, i also go to houston every now and then but i have the TN plate...hehe...so i am good to go and i dont have to worry about any legal issues.

JPRempe
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7 PSi = 240 RWHP :)

:: orion ::
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Depends on the turbo...

7psi from a T04B-R may be 235-240rwhp...but 7psi from a T3 will be 220-225rwhp.

And for your modest goals (very similar power-wise to mine) you DO NOT need a built motor. Hell, for the $$$, I'd rather blow a KA every other year and swap in a fresh one rather than build one to last me 5+ years.

But I'd doubt you'll blow up a KA at 250-280rwhp if you have your tuning down. You won't even have to tune conservatively to be safe - Make sure the timing is in check and the fuel checks out.

Later - Brian

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sil80drifter
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How r u planning on getting more than 10HP (not to mention WHP) out of a T3, on a KA? Ur gonna be lucky if u get 240HP at the crank... Only with really good tuning can one extract more than 10HP out of a psi of boost, or u need a bigger turbo (but they don't make huge power until higher boost, so forget that as well). It'd be good if u got around 240hp at the crank at 7psi, because that would mean u've gotten over 10hp per psi from a small turbo on a 2.4 liter.

sil80

SloS13
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sil80. Are you saying that 1psi wouldnt make more than 165 at the crank?. Maybe i read that wrong

kettnerc
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I'm almost finished with this sort of swap on an altima. I kept my current engine (80k) and converted to a five speed. I also put the stage one f-max (for the altima) on and am waiting on one or two more parts before I enjoy the bliss of driving her.

From the altima side of things, our kit makes roughly 16hp at the crank per pound of boost all things else being equal (no pulley, lightened flywheel, cams, 3" exhaust - just stock). With 7psi, that makes roughly 262 at the crank and probably close to 230-240 at the wheels with a manual transmission. The 240 may be slightly different.. but we're all KA here.

I think his plan is reasonable... good luck.

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sil80drifter
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The 240SX has more drivetrain loss. 20% or more, is the usual figure for rearwheel drive cars. 240HP - 20%HP = 192-200whp, depending on setup. 16psi per boost on an FMAX turbo, which is a t3/t4 (more air gets in at 7psi then on a T3). Also it (240HP) was a figure I predicted you could make on a really well tuned setup, on a larger sized T3 on our cars.

sil80

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Charlie240sxt
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This is my frist post but i have been reading this stuf for like 4-5 months but i always thought that you loose more hp thew frount wheel drive then rear wheel drive cuz rwd is strate on and fwd is sideways if i am wrong then i am but i think that you lose more thew front wheel

kettnerc
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I definitely think you lose more with RWD...

FWD motors are "angled" in the engine bay so that they too are "straight on."

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sil80drifter
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FWD is RWD without a driveshaft and couplings that go along with it. Those things cause drivetrain loss (DTL), among the rest of the components. Since FWD does not have them, it experiences less DTL than RWD.

sil80


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