Pistons in my ca

Post by **gatonmy3** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

I plan on boring my ca out to a 1.9(84mm) heard that Je is the best for this application, but that shat is expensive, i know you get what you pay for but man thats gonna be more expensive than my turbo upgrade, does anyone know if the stock pistons will hold, is there anything you can do to strengthen them if i werent to bore it out? also does anyone know if the oe nissan head gasket will hold out to high boost?

Post by **slw240sx** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

if your building it for high performance, then yah going to have to pay for high performance, dont cheap out and cut too many corners cause its goin to cost you way more in the end !!

Post by **nomore_mr2** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

je pistons are about 450 a set. thats cheap. stock headgasket wont hold anything its weak. you will need a hks stopper gasket or something that is equivalent. you cut corners you have a unreliable engine.

Post by **JDM_1990_S13** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

450 a set??? where??

Post by **nomore_mr2** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

thats how much i can get them for all day long

Post by **tru** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

what is the difference between hks "stopper" headgasket and hks "bead" headgasket? because I saw a hks "BEAD" headgasket for sale at 119us + shipping and I want to buy it

Post by **boost_boy** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

First of all, what are your power goals? If you're looking for 200-300whp then the stock crap will work. But if you're trying to do 400whp or better, stop being cheap and spend the bread. Speed costs and there are no exceptions to the rule "Not even for me".

Post by **gatonmy3** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

well, im not going cheap, I probably wont get much higher than 300hp thats still way down the road. Im basically shooting for a rebuild to get the motor reliable to be put into the car. Boring to 84mm, je pistons, total seal rings, shotpeened rods, new bearings, oe headbolts, new clutch, water, oil pump, belts. Just want to know the cheapest place for all this and if its necessary. also how much hp will a new oe headgasket hold? shat man any info would help. there doesnt seem to be anyone out there who will get into detail about this swap. i plan on swapping it into my s14, its gonna happen, i dont care if nobody will help out, a little info would help especially wiring. thanks

Post by **themadscientist** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

you can get away with new stock pistons but why not spend the money now on some forged ones? What if later down the road your goals go up and you skimped on the foundation? Do it right and be done with it.

The difference between the two is this;

The bead type is the cheapest and weakest, it consists of several rippled sheets of metal that compress.The Super Stopper has large ring added that crushes and is much stronger but a one shot deal.The bead type can be reused but that is really nickle and dime BS and it is not 100% and it was inferior to begin with. I you are going with a mild T04E or something at a low boost level the bead will live but the Stopper type is worth the extra coin. Tomei makes a sweet one also, I have a 2mm one on the shelf for my next buildup.

Post by **gatonmy3** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

Hey boost boy, i got a few questions regarding wiring, if you could email me at [email protected] with some answers or right back here it would be apreciated. Im putting the ca into my 95 240, gonna run everything stock at first other than built internals and new clutch, that way i can upgrade once the motors in the car that way i know all the **** works. What i want to know is if there is a wiring diagram or some sort of helper or place that i can send my wiring harness to that can help me when i wire everything in. also im a little unsure, do i have to splice the wires from the harness to the motor and splice the wires from the car together and then rewire them back into a plug that goes to the ca computer, cause mother f@cker that doesnt sound like fun, and i dont know of anyone who has done this into an s14 i would really appreciate a little info. also im still wondering which mounts to use, were to get a down pipe( will sr or ka work) and what is the best way to route piping so not to move battery. any info would be great.

Post by **boost_boy** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

I'm going to tedll you the easy way out of your delemma! If you can stand to spend around $1200 on a standalone and about another $350 on minor machine work, then you too can broaden your tuning spectrum and be done with trying to wire or pay someone to do the wiring for you. But if you prefer to keep the stock stuff and spend 600+ on JWT, then I recommend total removal of the KA's engine to computer harness. The little white connector at the bottom kick panel is instramenta in wiring things on your dash such as water temperature sender, tachometer and a few other geeky gadgets to include your A/C. When you get this point, drop me an email or put your request on the board and I/we can help you from there. I would spend the money on the standalone and if you send me your ecu, I'll even program it for you (That's the SDS' ECU).

Post by **gatonmy3** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

okay, ill wait and see about the stand alone, but what do you mean take out the ka's harness, i planned on doing that anyway, and using the ca's harness.?? I just want to know if what i have to do is include dash wiring(ac,ect) with ca engine wiring and put them into a plug that plugs into the ca ecu? if thats true then basically its just a test and check situation? any clue one motor mounts? thanks for the information before, and thanks in advance for the info im hoping you will give (:

Post by **Oneor1** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

The pistons start going down hill on anything 350hp or more. Pistons and the rear seal are the weakest stock parts on CA's from what I've heard. Take it easy.

-Rick

Post by **boost_boy** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

Quote »I just want to know if what i have to do is include dash wiring(ac,ect) with ca engine wiring and put them into a plug that plugs into the ca ecu? if thats true then basically its just a test and check situation? any clue one motor mounts? [/quote] that's what it's going to boil down to test and check. If I can recall the yellow with red strip is one of interest poss the tach. Just use a 12volt test probe with the ignition on to call up the tach and the temperature meter. if I see, I'll know it, but I don't put it on paper because i don't see it often enough.

Post by **s13-master** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

what do you guys think is the best forged piston for the ca18det?

Post by **boost_boy** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

Wiseco, JE, Arias are all good pistons, but the CA18DET is not in production and they do not stock them (could be wrong). You're going to have to send them a spare piston.

Post by **JDM_1990_S13** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

nope JE has a part number, hell the pachaging i got has the part number on it, i'll have to get it from the garage.. but top end performance has a part number for it.. i got mine there.

but i think the best pistons for the CA18DET are probably out of japan, GREX, JUN and of course TOMEI and i am sure there are others...

Post by **alfred183** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

So, what are these part numbers?? And did I hear these were $450?? I heard JE pistons were $2250 for Z32, $1550 for SR20....how can they be so cheap, and where do I get some?

Post by **drumma022** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

Hey man, best of luck ith the 1.9 in the S14! Is yours a kouki (97-98) or a zenki (95-96)? Just curious, b/c so far I am the only one with a CA into the kouki...even in Japan, the only one I have seen was into a zenki. Well BoostBoy (Dee) can vouch for me when I say that the 1.9L in the S14 is BAD A$$. I am running GREX pistons, 1mm headgasket, 720cc injectors, factory new oil pump, new water pump, polished rods, 270in/270ex cams, T3/T04E on a custom Blitz top mount manifold and a tial 40mm to match. If you need help, send me an IM to godzilla240sx late nights, or an email to [email protected].

Of course any wiring info, I cannot help cause I have SDS for an ECU.

RayEnjuku Racing

Post by **boost_boy** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

Quote »Well BoostBoy (Dee) can vouch for me when I say that the 1.9L in the S14 is BAD A$$.[/quote] To my knowledge, he's the only one with a Kick-A$$ CA19DET in his S14 and that thing moves like lightning. It's worth the money to get rid of the factory crap-ola (crayola) and get a real time tuning system. Hey Ray, you figured out any solutions to some of the issues you're having with the car?

Post by **drumma022** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

Dee, I am diagnosing tomorrow. I have a few things in mind. I am hoping it is an easy fix, after i figured that the smoke had only shown up after the hard runs we made in Ft Lauderdale. It is VERY intermittent. Like none at idle, not much under normal driving. Wierd. I wont be able to comment until tomorrow.

Post by **slw240sx** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

are you gettin black smoke at 10psi or higher thats my problemn , no smoke at idle non at 5psi or 8 but at 10 or more i start smoking , and the cars just not happy till 6k rpm i think i have a boost leak !

Post by **McAdam** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

hey Gatonmy3,

more pistons!! we need more people!! I have 3 onboard right now.. myself, boost boy, and pulsargtir. We are going in on a group buy for pistons from ROSS racing pistons. quality stuff. forged. total coast as of now stands at $470, thats pistons, pins (full floaters), retainers, and a NICE set of rings. not a bad price. If we can get 5 people, the price drops even more. drop me an email if your interested.

McAdam

Post by **slw240sx** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

if i had the money, i was goin to get ross slugs anyhow but im broke as hell and indy is comming this weekend and i need at least 2-3 hun to blow there

Post by **boost_boy** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

Quote »if i had the money, i was goin to get ross slugs anyhow but im broke as hell and indy is comming this weekend and i need at least 2-3 hun to blow there[/quote] Alcoholic:D

Post by **slw240sx** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

nope, no Alcohol or drugs at all , not even OTC drugs, only thing i will take is my inhaler and thats cause if not i could die if i have an attack. pretty much a sXe cat here!

no i got to get a beater for work , got a buy a mig/tig welder, order a bizillion stickers for the shop, 3" pipes and flanges, some fuel system upgrades, phone bill , Gas aint cheap either! oh yeah buy a web server

Post by **dan240** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

When paul use to post here (movingviolation) i remember him recommending a set of CP pistons to me. Those things are bar none the nicest looking set of pistons i've ever seen. The ca19det piston (yes 19) he used was made by them. They make parts for race cars/bikes.

http://www.cppistons.com <---- take a look. These things make all the other manufacturers blush.

Good luck on your buildup

Post by **drumma022** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

Well I checked out my car today, and i noticed that the valve cover gasket was leaking in many places on the EX side, and caused alot of oil to buildup and collect around the sparkplug. When i pulled that plug, the threads were wet, and the piston had a wet/black look to it. I pulled the other plugs, and the other pistons had a wet/black look to them. (The motor wasnt run in 24 hrs).

With the plugs out, i did a compression test. 1--1602--1553--1554--155I checked the head bolts and they were at least 76 lb/ft. I started to bring them to ~95 and my hex drive snapped and it started raining. So i bolted the valve covers back on and decided to clean the garage.

It stopped raining, and I started it up. It started smoking a bit at idle, hard to tell the color but it was lightish color. It was running a bit rough. I leaned it out a little and it went away. But when i rev it hard, smoke comes out again but I had a chance to smell it, and all i could distinguish was fuel smell. I even had the car leaned out ~30% normal. DEE I NEED MORE HELP with the tuning values.

When we tuned the car, it was hotter than hell, now I a nice cool night, I notice the smoke more than I do during the day. It may be a helpless hope that it is the fuel values.

Any advice anybody?

Post by **boost_boy** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:36 pm

If you had oil in the saprk plug wells when you removed the spark plugs, the oil will run into the cylinders as well as wet the spark plugs. Your start values are a point of interest! Also try this Ray, lower your lowest RPM fuel 3%, keep the one after the same, move the one after that one 1% which should 1000rpm and start the slope from there. Don't screw with the areas of 3500rpm and higher as they are set to not have your engine melt down. Let me know how this goes and make sure there are no leaks in the system because if it's leaking, it will run you crazy with smoke. Oil in the catch can is normal from CA18's because my girl's car did as well as my own. When they see high boost, they tend to fly some of the oil out of the breather. Don't let this discourage you. WE tuned for power and reliability under W.O.T operation, but I wish I could've sorted the economy as well as the normal stuff out for ya'!

Pistons in my ca

Pistons in my ca

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