In the middle of rebuilding my KA-T engine i noticed that one of the rods had a little drag on it. Bassicaly the rod was not floating as freely on the piston pin vs the others. I suspected that teh pin was just dry so I sprayed some lube in the oil fee hole at the bottom and moved the rod and piston around till the oil came out the top. That helped but there is still more drag than the other rod piston combos.
Should I be concerned? could there be debris causing it to not move freeley? The berring at the bottom was severly scored. Perhaps a small pice of berring went up the oil channel in the rod?
piston / rod question
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Scott McLellan
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2002 7:53 am
That was actually during the testing phase of the lawnmower battery. We have since purchased regular tie downs but the stiring did work. Dont worry it was secured well during the solo events 
Aries - The rod has loosened up a bit so I think its going to be ok. I plan to run some 5w-30 oil in there to help fush the engine out during brake in. Hopefully that will flush out any remaining debris in the motor. What oil would you recomend for the first 500 miles or so?
Aries - The rod has loosened up a bit so I think its going to be ok. I plan to run some 5w-30 oil in there to help fush the engine out during brake in. Hopefully that will flush out any remaining debris in the motor. What oil would you recomend for the first 500 miles or so?
I recommend the cheapest oil out there for the first 500 miles. You actually want a little bit of friction so parts begin to wear together. Then change it (i went 200 miles, not 500) to something decent, but not synthetic. Go for 1500 miles on the decent oil, then you can go synthetic if you want. This worked very well for me.
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Scott McLellan
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2002 7:53 am
If there was any concern about debris being in the motor, I personally would not start the motor, especially during break-in. This is the most critical time for an engine that decides whether it is going to live a long life of beatings or a short one. It may seem like extra hassle to tear it down again but I think in the long run it would be the best choice. It is quite a bit of money, at least for me... By the way, you did replace that scored bearing right? And at least do what Aries said if your pistons have spiral locks on them. It is easy and it might save your engine.
Dude, if he is far enough into the motor to change a bearing and clean out the wrist pin, he should be replacing ALL of the bearings.
I started giving mine hell after the first oil change at 200 miles. I just couldnt resist!! Seriously, you might want to take it easy till 1000 or 1500 or so, just to be cautious. It didnt hurt mine, but ive never taken it to the track or anything, i just like to drive it hard occasionally.
I started giving mine hell after the first oil change at 200 miles. I just couldnt resist!! Seriously, you might want to take it easy till 1000 or 1500 or so, just to be cautious. It didnt hurt mine, but ive never taken it to the track or anything, i just like to drive it hard occasionally.