Pics of the ride. LOTS of pics beware.

[AmoebAssassin]

Can you send your desktop background to [email protected]? I really like that picture!

[r34 gtr]

thanks for all the info on your setup. thats going to help me out like you wouldnt believe. this task of installing a megasquirt is looking more and more promising every day!

dude, im so jealous of all the cola y pola. i havnt had that stuff in years! last time i had it i was with a friend visiting his family in bogota. you have got to tell me where you managed to wrangle that stuff up. im gonna order like, 400 cases.

- tim

[81na ZX]

So why are you guys using MS II instead of MS I (&S) + EDIS?TO my thoughts, MSII doesn't add enough over a MSI on a v3 board.

Thats what I'm building for a car (Fairlady w/ CA18), plus MS&S for another (Seven clone w/ 4G63 turbo)

[rico05]

Great info guys!! I think this thread needs to be archived and or sticky'ed.

On a side note: Your desktop pic....Which Hot Version has that Togue Battle on it? I wanna watch the R1 battle that FC. Tex sechs.

[Not_a_sr]

higher resolution, faster processor and its only 80$ more for the daughterboard, i bought a MSI but i am ordering the MSII board today.

So why are you guys using MS II instead of MS I (&S) + EDIS?TO my thoughts, MSII doesn't add enough over a MSI on a v3 board.

Thats what I'm building for a car (Fairlady w/ CA18), plus MS&S for another (Seven clone w/ 4G63 turbo)

[MegasquirtCA]

Just like Not a Sr said its faster, and after 2 months of research I came to the conclusion that MSII is better suited for the CA18DET. Not to mention all the latest improvements that are coming out are only for MSII for example the router board which is for Sequential Injection is made for MSII, the GPIO (General Purpose Input Output) board is only for MSII the GPIO board is pretty much a extra board that pretty much makes alot of your tuning systems out their obsolete. MSII at the moment doesnt seem like its that much better over MSI its just at the moment the goodies aren't released yet to make megasquirt II shine, oh yea I forgot MSII is easier to assemble and less complicated when implementing systems such as EDIS.

[MegasquirtCA]

Hey Not A Sr I noticed in your other thread that you didnt have your Air Regulator and Idle Air Adjusting Unit on your intake manifold. When you go megasquirt whats your plan for idling?

I was searching on megasquirt's site and forums and found that several people use their Air Regulator for idling and cold starts. Now we have a Air Regulator but we also have the Idle Air Adjusting Unit. So I posted this on MSEFI.com

Alright so I need help picking what IAC to use. Now I've already determined that I wont be using Stepper IAC or PWM. My motor comes stock with a Fast Idle On/off. My car comes with a total of 3 IAC type systems a Air Regulator, IAA Unit which is 2 part Auxilary Air Control Valve (On/Off) and the other is a FICD Solenoid Valve this is used for A/C which my car doesnt have by the way along with no power steering.

I'm gonna be running MSII V3.0 with 2.34 Code with Megatune 2.25 Final and complete FORD EDIS. The motor is turbod stock gonna run about 11psi, and I live in South Florida so it rarely gets cold, average temp is around upper 80's. I'm including the pages from the FSM about the parts along with pictures.

So pretty much my question is should I go with the Air Regulator or the AAC since its the Fast Idle On/Off. I read another thread that the Air Regulator doesnt do a good job with turbo motors. My Air Regulator looks pretty much exactly like the Bosch one.

Also things to consider is my car doesnt have Power Steering I removed it, also no A/C I removed it as well.

This is what it says on megasquirts site about the Air Regulator

Some people have been using an auxiliary air regulator for fast idle control. SAAB, VW, and many other European vehicles used this system on their early EFI systems (D-jetronic) and on their mechanical injection system (CIS). The great thing about this system is that it does not need to connect to MegaSquirt at all. You just hook up 12 volt, ignition switched, and you are ready to run. Use 12 volts from the fuel pump relay. If the engine is not actually running you do not want it powered up, as it will move to the 'warm' position even though the engine isn't running.



Mount the regulator to the engine such that engine heat can keep the valve closed when you do not need any additional air for warmup. During cold starts, the auxiliary air valve opens to allow additional air into the inlet duct. As engine heats up, a bi-metallic element expands and closes valve. At approximately 140°F (80°C) the auxiliary air orifice is completely closed by the valve.

If you notice our Air Regulator is exactly the same as the Bosch unit.

I got a response from Jerry (diyautotune) stating that pretty much the Air Regulator is our Fast Idle.

[Not_a_sr]

yeah i did away with both units, for idle i just set the throttle plate set screw to hold the idle about 1100-1500rpm which it does flawlessly even letting off the gas and letting it fall on its own. i had more problems getting my idle right with the valve and the airregulator in place.

my air regulator was bad so i just took it off, i havnt noticed any major effects, my car doesnt like to run when cold but thats why i put a remote start on it, let it warm up before i drive and its fine.

im probably just going to leave my idle like it is, and not worry about controlling it via electronics unless it gives me problems, then i might just switch over to ford stuff if it works. as long as my car idles around 1500 im fine. its not a complete daily driver anymore, more of a track car/promo car for the shop.

[MegasquirtCA]

just an update finally got the harness done along with Megaview. we're gonna try and start her up today. Tried thursday night to start unfortunatly it didnt, seemed spark related. Aparently I missed a few things on programing the computer such as settings for engine type, I accidently had it left on 8 cylinder etc etc. so today gonna go through the whole programing process etc etc. but it seems like everything is a GO GO. I forgot to install my fuel return line and when I tried to start the car fuel kept pouring out so I know fuel pump is working flawlessly like I hoped. Anyways wish me luck, hopefully it starts today and I'll post a video.

I can't believe how easy it was to incorporate megasquirt to the stock harness all it took was 2 wires that led to the cabin fuse panel and 1 wire to the fuse box next to the battery.

Once I get it started I'll do that complete write up everyone is asking about along with a base map and complete picture steps.

Here are some pics of Megaview. This is probably one of my favorite features of Megasquirt. Megaview is optional display that shows all the parameters of the motor and electrical system. it pretty much replaces all the gauges I bought lol. Anyways the best part about Megaview is it allows you to adjust some of the parameters, everything except fuel maps, and timing. The screen is a Vacuum Flourescent Display which is visible in all lights.Its going where the A/C control unit used to be I'll post a pic later when its all set and buttoned down.





Here is a pic of my Fuse block that I added for megasquirt, megasquirt requires 6, but since I used some of the fuses from the car I only needed to add 4.





Here is a pic of the VR bracket.



This is a pic of the injector wiring harness with coolant, tps, hanging out not wrapped yet.

[float_6969]

In reference to the idle question, I, like Jon, aren't using any sort of electronic idle control. I've got a cold start valve that is controlled by the SDS ECU, but that's it. I adjusted the throttle plate idle screw so that at idle, with all electrical accessories running, it idled at 900rpm. With the motor warmed up, and everything off, it will idle at about 1100rpm. I don't really have any problems with it that way.