Performing Engine Pull, Any Important Upgrades I'm Missing?

[Fearspect]

I am going to be performing an engine pull on my car. Basically, its coming out for a combination of minor upgrades, a coolant leak we can't fix with the engine in, and an exceedingly brittle wiring harness.

Background: 1990 TT 2+2 (JDM) with pop charger, koyo radiator, z1 full flow oil cooler, full 3" exhaust, Greddy Profec EBC. Rest is pretty much stock. I just had it dyno tuned by SZ at 320rwhp/320ft*lbs, and am more than happy, for now at least, with its power.

I can easily see that the costs can just grow and grow, so I am trying to just limit it to the important things. Here is what I am looking to perform while it is out:

Fuel:
-SZ Fuel Kit Package (300 deg rails, 740cc Nismo Injectors, Maybe new CAS)
-New Wiring Harness

Cooling:
-Replace OEM Cooling Fan and Clutch Fan
-SPL Brake Deflectors
-New Coolant Temp Sensor (ECU and Gauge parts)

Engine:
-Full Water Bypass and all deletes (AIV, PRVR, EGR, Carbon Canister)
-EGR Delete Kit
-BDE Low Profile Engine Mounts
-SZ 6 Qt Oil Pan
-New Knock Harness and Sensor
-Z1 Throttle Bodies
-MSP Manifolds
-Port and Polish
-Clean up on upper plenum

Turbo:
-Two new CHRAs for stock turbos (Significantly less cost than other alternatives, one has significant play currently)

Rebuild:
-Full Engine Gasket Kit w/ Missing Gaskets
-Actual Rebuild Kit w/ Eagle Rods (rest stock) based on results of compression and leakdown testing

Breather Mods:
-Full Ash SMIC Piping
-Ash Massive V3
-Full Ash Intake Piping
-Selin Dual Elbow Kit & Maf & 2nd Pop

My goal here is simple: Make this thing rock-solid reliable. I already have full 3" exhaust to the rear, so no need to change those parts. What else is really important to take a look at? I know, for example, that my Oil Sender is looking rough, so that might get done. I'm sure I'll find lots of things related to electronics that need fixing.

[Ace2cool]

downpipes?

[Fearspect]

Got them as part of my full 3" exhaust, thanks!

[300ZXttZMAN]

Hoses?

Do you realize that since your buying these things you are going to need another tune. Do you already have the Selin translator?

Breather Mods:
-Full Ash SMIC Piping
-Ash Massive V3
-Full Ash Intake Piping
-Selin Dual Elbow Kit & Maf & 2nd Pop

Also if you buy the full Ash intake piping you don't need the Selin elbow kit.. Its either you buy one or the other, not both. Silly goose.

[DCaff300ZX]

^^^Agreed on the hoses- vacuum hoses and your idle circuit will surely benefit from new, there are so many and they can all be brittle and cracked and you really don't want those types of issues to sort after your pull/refresh.
I would also look at replacing all of the electrical connectors up top of engine and in the engine bay (my rear of engine connectors weren't happy all shoved in there), boost hoses if they aren't new, and anything else that hasn't been upgraded by you previously such as fuel lines and correct fuel clamps, FPR and fuel dampener. These are all things I have done/am doing strictly as 150K mile insurance on my TT, surely it will benefit you as well!

[itsa300zx]

The weak link in the TT bottom end is the cast pistons, I would look into that first, before of the rods.

[Fearspect]

I have about 7' of high pressure fuel hose, and about 20' each of 6mm and 4mm silicone vacuum hose. I'm keeping a budget aside for odds and sods connectors and hose clamps, etc because I'm sure many things will be discovered in need of replacement.

300zxTTMan: The elbow kit comes with those nice brackets and different looking bends. I might just grab it discounted in the packaged and see if its needed, selling off what I don't. Thanks for the info though! Also yes, the SZ fuel kit comes with a new ECU chip, and I will be looking to tune the final product when its all assembled.

DCaff300zx: Roger, I plan to order the shielded fuel line set. I just replaced my FPR/Dampner/Filter about two weeks ago, so I'm sure they'll keep for the rebuild. I'll be sure to plug them off the second they come out to keep them clean. Which electrical connectors won't be included in the new wiring harness? I definitely think I need to get new coil pack connectors, for instance, because they were in a totally garbage state. I still think the coil packs themselves are fine though.

itsa300zx: I'm only going with the Eagle Rods because they're cheaper than stock. Since both are forged anyway, I have no issue with the switch. With a power level to a max of 600hp I will be sticking with the cast pistons for their reliability, fitment and because they last longer than forged. That is, of course, if they even have to be changed at all. I will leak down and compression test the system before the pull to determine if I need a full rebuild or just a gasket kit.

[bartZ32tt]

I think you covered most of the "while the engine is out" necessities. I'll just throw out some suggestions:
-1 piece driveshaft
-highly recommend a heavy duty clutch fork upgrade (04+350z) and chromoly pivot
-BDE stock-replacement engine mounts (cost about the same as stock initially but are much cheaper to replace long-run. Better design too.)
-steering rack bushings
-now is a good time to delete HICAS, upper clutch bleed point, and clutch booster if you wish. Clutch booster is prone to boost leaks and deleting it doesn't cause much difference, if at all, with pedal feel.
-flywheel/clutch upgrade
-PVC reroute
-BDE half-moon camshaft seals if the valve covers are coming off
-drivers side turbo coolant reroute (you can eliminate the whole "loop" on the side of the plenum by slightly bending the turbo's metal line). Much less potential leak points this way.
-do NOT use a rubber oil pan gasket kit - it will leak. Use a good quality rtv sealant.
-silicone heater hoses
-new trans mount
-fuel line spring style clamps - especially on the line that connects the rails together. AKA "the bastard hose"