Post by
niscort »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/niscort-u12339.html
Thu Jun 08, 2006 2:18 am
FET performance used to also produce replacement coil sets.
Yes they are the bosch part numbers and direct external replacement... this write up is from a guy - TurboN13(shaun)
....
4 X Bosch coils HEC-715/6 (diffence in lead connector on coil, male/female) about $40 - $60 per coil1 X Custom lead set, about $120 - $150 for a decent 10mm set.1 x Bracket to mount coils - can be any $ depending on who you know and how fancy it is, ie: mine wasfree, but i had to drill holes myself, material and bending was free.8 x Female spade connectors (larger size of the two available) for wiring - $5
Tools: (stuff to borrow)
wire stripperscrimpers / wire cutters
Intructions:
First thing would be to get your bracket made up for mounting the coils onto, and also while the caris still running with the stock setup, take it to your local leads place, and show them where yourcoilswill be sitting so they can make up/give you the correct length set for your application andstill drive your car home. This way you will have all you parts ready to go and knock the job overall at once.
Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Take the coil cover off of your motor, 8 bolts10mm/phillips (NB: If you have your top mount still installed remove this first, which is prettystraight forward, just look for the bolts and clamps holding it on). Disconnect the wiring fromeach coil marking each plug/connector as you go with a number corresponding to which coil you pulledit off of - number 1 is closest to the timing belt (drivers side/right side) and continues upto 4consecutively to the other end.
Sell your stock coils to someone along with all the bracketing. Mark each of your new coils withnumbers from 1 to 4. You should probably have your coils mounted on your bracketing system and workedout where the bracket will sit in your engine bay by this stage so you can work out how long your newleads will have to be, and also how short you can cut the old wiring to hook up to your new coils, oreven how far you have to extend your wiring depending on where you decide to put the coils, closer tothe plugs is prolly better for tidyness, not on top, just close.
The new coils will only have a + and -, where as the old factory coils had threewires. The thin black wire can be disgarded completely, follow where it goes and remove it. Thethick yellow one is constant remote power (+) which is a common for the coils and the pink one isthe trigger/negative (-) which has an INDIVIDUAL signal for each coil. Connect each yellow wireto each coil on the + terminal, and the pink TO THE CORRESPONDING coil - ie: when you disconnectedthe wiring connectors/plugs from the stock coils and marked them with numbers, connect the pink wirefrom the connector marked (1) to the aftermarket coil you have marked (1) onto the (-) terminal andrepeat so on until (4). * When you cut the each of the wires from the standard plugs, strip the end ofthe wire, and crimp one of your spade connectors onto the wire, then plug it onto the correct terminalon the coil. Don't cut all the wires from all of the standard plugs at once, or you won't know whichis which, just cut one wire at a time and connect it the the correct coil straight away to avoid \confusion later on, especially if you enjoying a few rumbos while you work Tape up all your wiringetc, tidy it up, put condue on it if you like, make it look pretty.
Plug the leads onto your coils and then to your spark pulgs, once again marking sure the lead comingfrom your new aftermarket coil marked (1) is going to number (1) spark plug, which once again is theone closest to the timing belt/drivers side of the motor. Repeating up until number (4) continuingto the right sequentially.
Reinstall the plastic coil cover onto your motor or leave it off it you like it that way (andintercooler if applicable), connect the battery and take it for a test toast.