Performance Alignment?

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
stash420sx
Posts: 124
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:05 pm

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anyone got and specs for a more agressive alignment for autocross? whiteline s web sight mentioned something about neutral toe front and rear for the s13 chassis. think less toe would increase tire wear too?


14.5drift
Posts: 274
Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2003 9:28 am

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neutral toe will definatly give better tire wear but not as much traction, I would stick with the factory specs between 1 - 2 degrees toe in, or even more if you dont care about tire wear.

stash420sx
Posts: 124
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:05 pm

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HMMMMM, well i gues i will experiment with some different settings.

marshun
Posts: 893
Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2004 8:20 am

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a toe in will give it a tad bit more steering response. i have mines at -1.5. something like that. it's been a while

stash420sx
Posts: 124
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:05 pm

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stock total toe is .13 in the front and .23 in the rear. I think im going to set mine a little closer to neutral, but not quit neutral. ill let you guys know how squirmish it drives after my next autocross. byt he way do those toe numbers represent toe in or out? i have forgotten.

Nismo_Freak
Posts: 10314
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX

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marshun wrote:a toe in will give it a tad bit more steering response. i have mines at -1.5. something like that. it's been a while


Toe out improves steering response, and toe in improves straightline stability.

Dynamically speaking toe in is better for stability in situations where bumpsteer is an issue because the wheel has to traverse first the degree of toe in then toe out to create bumpsteer.

14.5drift
Posts: 274
Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2003 9:28 am

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Nismo_Freak wrote:Toe out improves steering response, and toe in improves straightline stability.

Dynamically speaking toe in is better for stability in situations where bumpsteer is an issue because the wheel has to traverse first the degree of toe in then toe out to create bumpsteer.
I thought it was thee other way,

well not the other way but

toe in was good for handling (favors the outsides tread of the tire)

and neutral toe was benificial for straight line :shrug:

14.5drift
Posts: 274
Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2003 9:28 am

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I have been confused with camber lol

here's a good read about camber,caster,and toe

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racet....html

Nismo_Freak
Posts: 10314
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX

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14.5drift wrote:I thought it was thee other way,

well not the other way but

toe in was good for handling (favors the outsides tread of the tire)

and neutral toe was benificial for straight line :shrug:


Steering response != road handling

Road handling will be more stable with toe-in, but it won't improve handling.

Nismo_Freak
Posts: 10314
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX

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Camber is easy ... just understand how to use this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WDVW

User avatar
Exar-Kun
Posts: 4131
Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2002 1:33 pm
Car: 2005 350Z
Contact:

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theres a siffernece between steering, handling and road handing.

road handling, simply put is how well the car grips the road when cornered progressively harder, almost literally, its how well the tires are gripping the road.

handling is a bit more complex, essentially a car handles well if it does what you want it to, predicatably.

and now for the "what does this mean" section

toe in(static) will generate more stability in a straight line, as alan said previously. toe out is run on some race cars(or near-race car..IE lotus Esprit V8TT runs -.08* negative toe front) for better initial turn in. running zero toe causes a perplexing problem, since some toe in seems to be best for braking performance and completely neutral toe will make it bump steer odly(so can negative toe)

I personally run .05* positive toe front and rear(minimal front toe)

static camber figures can be used to do a few things also, for our puyrposes, we want negative camber. .5 to 1 on front and .8 to 1.5 rear for most street and even light track applications(unless you have a way to sigure out camber gain and lateral forces during track runs or a way to test it) you want some negative camber so the car rolls "onto" the tire instead of off the tire during a corner...

I run -1 front and -1.5 rear camber(static)

caster is a bit more complicated, suffice to say keep it in the stock range and you'll be fine.-chet


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